Giorgio Armani Blender Brush

Good makeup application is all about having the right tool for the right product, which is why those of us who amass serious collection of color products also tend to get excited about unique brushes. Now, as much as I love most of what Giorgio Armani Beauty has to offer, the brushes I have from this line (a lip brush and the eye shader brush) never rocked my world. I mean, a lip brush is really hard to mess up but also not something about which I get excited, and the eye shader brush is not as good as the ones I have from Chanel, NARS or Edward Bess.

Giorgio Armani Blender Brush is a whole new game. It's an odd little brush, one you wouldn't necessarily suspect was actually designed to apply foundation. It's made of natural sable and is shaped like a flat paddle. I have other beloved foundation brushes that aren't huge (CoverFX, Alison Raffaele), but the Armani is the shortest and most flat, and has a different density and texture. Which, apparently, makes it ideal for thinner formulas of liquid foundations and tinted moisturizers, especially if you've found that applying them with a stippling brush is not ideal for some reason.

I get an excellent coverage even from tinted moisturizers when using the blender brush and can also navigate and manipulate the product when I don't want to paint my entire face, just certain areas, and still get an even airbrushed look. The brush is ideal for narrow areas and wherever I need precise work. It feels softer than I expected from the way it looks and I'm not even bothered by the short and compact handle.

Is this a must-have? It depends. Do you collect and experiment with interesting brush shapes and foundation textures? If you do, then there's a good chance you'd enjoy and use this Armani brush. If you're more conservative in your foundation application practice and already have a holy grail brush, then you can live without it, but if you're still not 100% happy with whatever you're using, head over to the Armani counter and give it a swirl.

Giorgio Armani Blender Brush ($48) is available from Saks, Barneys and Nordstrom, as well as from the company's website.

All photos are mine.

NARS Wide Contour Brush #16

My Sephora brand angled contour eye brush (this particular shape and size has been discontinued for a while now) reached the end of its too-short life. It held for about three or four years, but was obviously not as well-made as I would have liked (it was from the regular line, not the Professional Platinum). But I loved it because the density, angle and the small-medium size were not only unusual but also incredibly efficient. But we're not here to talk about my dead brush but about my (unsuccessful yet) effort to replace it.

NARS Wide Contour Brush #16 is too big and wide to be a true contour brush or to fit in the crease as my old brush did, but it's a great tool otherwise. It's incredibly soft but till dense enough to pick the right amount of color for the entire lid. It can give a wash of a base color and even under the bone highlighting (I have enough lid space to land an airplane) and also does a good job blending whatever I throw at it. NARS No. 16 feels nice on skin and steady in my hand and delivers great results especially for soft and natural looks.

What doesn't NARS Wide Contour Brush #16 do? Real contouring. Or any precise and detailed work, especially with dark colors. It's just too wide and soft for this. But other than misnaming it, I don't have any complaints for NARS regarding this brush.

Bottom Line: Not an essential if you already have enough wide blending brushes, but nice to have, especially because of the somewhat unusual shape.

NARS Wide Contour Brush #16 ($33) is available from some department stores and narscosmetics.com.

All photos are mine.

Smashbox Eye Definer Brush No. 15

I picked Smashbox Eye Definer Brush No. 15 on a whim at Ulta because I was looking for a small domed brush for my travel brush roll to do detailed crease work and maybe also a little lash line smudging. I liked Smashbox #15 because it's quite dense and the shape is very well-defined. The brush is almost pencil-like while still soft and pleasant to use. It fits right where I need it- in the crease or right above my lashes, so I find myself using it very often, especially for really dark colors.

What the brush doesn't do: It's not the right tool for blending, at least the way I work- too small and tapered for the task. I'd also avoid using it with a cream shadow, despite what it says on Smashbox website. The brush is made of natural squirrel hair which I think is too porous for cream products. There are enough synthetic brushes better for this task.

Smashbox Eye Definer Brush No. 15 ($24) is available from Ulta and smashbox.com.

All photos are mine, models are Sophie and Giselle.

Nars Small Domed Eye Brush #12

As someone with large lids and a deep crease, my favorite eye brushes are quite big and wide as to not create harsh lines and edges. But sometimes there's a need for a more precision in the crease or lid, especially when applying very pigmented dark colors to the outer corner. This is where Nars #12 Small Domed brush comes into play.

The unique thing about Nars #12 is that unlike many small brushes for detailed work it is fluffy and not very dense, so it won't pick too much color. The small dome fits into small spaces (which is why this brush is usually a top pick for Asian eyes) and deposits the right amount of dark color where you need it. The fluffiness makes it ideal for blending, and since it's small enough, the color will stay in the right place and won't spread too far.

Less pigmented colors and dramatic contrasts require a denser brush, but for certain colors and looks this is the best brush I've come across.

Nars Small Domed Eye Brush #12 ($27) is available from narscosmetics.com.

All photos by me with the help of Sophie and Giselle.

Edward Bess Luxury Eye Brush

A couple of months ago I held an open thread about makeup brushes and one reader commented that the Luxury Eye Brush from Edward Bess' line is so good it makes a drugstore eye shadow look like a million dollar. I know what she meant. The thickness, density and shape of this brush coerces even the most questionably-textured eye shadows (Lancome, in my case) to spread and apply evenly. It's excellent for smooth blending that looks professional and for doing a wash of color over the lid.

This brush is made of natural bristles, so it's intended for powder eye shadows. It's as soft as they come and feels great against delicate skin in the eye area. The thick and round head is too big for contouring or for delicate crease work, so I'd be delighted if Edward Bess comes up with a second eye brush in a smaller size/tapered shape. But since no brush can do it all, the Luxury Eye Brush is among the most fabulous options out there. It comes in a sleek and sturdy box, making it a great gift idea (and easy to wrap!). Just keep it out of your pets reach- my Josephine was quite certain it's a small furry animal that should come and play with her.

Edward Bess Luxury Eye Brush ($40) is available from Bergdorf Goodman in store and online, select Neiman Marcus locations as well as their online store and edwardbess.com.

All photos and kittens are mine.

Nars Yachiyo Brush

Things I can't resist: kittens, fresh pasta, funky hats, figs, vintage Shalimar, handmade accessories, makeup brushes with a unique design. Nars Yachiyo brush falls under the last two categories. It's hand-spun and has an interesting handle made from black wisteria that wraps all around and feels very nice when you hold it.

One of the secrets of a really good blush brush is the amount of product is collects at one sweep and how much buffing and blending one needs to do after depositing the color on skin. That's what makes Nars Yachiyo the superb brush it is. There's something about the domed and tapered shape of the Yachio and its hair density that creates the magic- it makes even dark and very pigmented blushes almost fool-proof (as long as the color looks good on one's skin, that is).

The tapered shape makes the Yachiyo great for more delicate jobs like contouring, if you're so inclined. I played with a little and saw that it can be manipulated very well into small areas such as the sides of your nose. It's also good for touch highlighting either with the tip or sides, and some use it for cleanups, but personally, I prefer a simple fan brush for this purpose.

While this brush isn't the softest one I own, it feels pleasant enough. I've been using it for a little over a month, and while there was a little shading the first week, things are stable now. It survived its first washing (I wrapped the handle with a washcloth while doing it, to protect the black wisteria) and dried well. For such an expensive makeup brush I wish it came in nicer packaging (think Edward Bess brushes) or at least with a protective velvet pouch like Chanel or Guerlain, but that's my only complaint.

Nars Yachiyo Brush ($50) is available from narscosmetics.com and some deartment stores.

Photos by me.

Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics- Pro Brush Cleaner

I belong to the school of thought that believes in washing everything (including the occasional cat) with warm water and detergents, but sometimes you need a quick and efficient shortcut. When it comes to my makeup brushes, especially when traveling I don't always have the option or time to do the whole washing and careful drying routine. Not to mention sometimes you need to clean a brush right in the middle of makeup application and re-use it immediately. That's what cleansing sprays are for.

I've been using Youngblood Pro Brush Cleaner for several weeks now, at home and away and I'm highly impressed with its performance. Just like with other quick brush cleansers, you just spray and wipe until dry, so there's no inventing the wheel here. It's just that Youngblood's cleaner is very effective and removes every last bit of color and gunk from the brushes, requires less effort than the equivalent Sephora product and dries quickly (once I learned there's no need to saturate the brushes with solution, that is), so I can reuse the brush right away.

Bottom Line: My current favorite.

Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics Pro Brush Cleaner ($18) is available from ybskin.com. A press sample was sent from the company for my consideration.

Image: glamour.com

An Open Thread: Makeup Brushes

Let's talk about makeup brushes. After casually mentioning here that I was updating and organizing my makeup brush collection with emphasis on my travel brushes I've been getting several emails every day asking for opinions and recommendations for brushes. Many want to know what's the best brand for brushes.

It's hard to answer, really. I have favorites from several brands and can't say I'm very loyal to any. I love my Chanels (especially the blush brush and blending brush), Nars and Edward Bess' Face Brush (which, by the way, retained it shape a lot better than the MUFE brush), but I also use several Eco Tools brushes- the blush and powder brushes are as superb as they are cheap. And then there are the ones from Sephora Professional line, Smashbox concealer brushes and Bobbi Brown shading, blending and eye liner brushes. Not very helpful if one is OCD about having everything the same length and color, but I'm more concerned with effectiveness.

So now it's your turn: Do you have any recommendations? What are your favorite brushes? Are you loyal to one or two brands? Any recent discoveries? Or: Ask questions about brushes, answer questions already asked... Let's talk about it!

Photo: oss237.com

Julie Hewett Cheekie Palette & Brush

Cream blush is everywhere. Pans, pots, sticks- they come in several formats and sheerness levels and are winning even reluctant hearts and faces including mine. Three or four years ago I had a hard time finding even one cream/gel blush I liked. Now I have several in my regular rotation and I can mix, blend and choose.

Speaking of mixing and blending, the Cheekie Palette from Julie Hewett has become a favorite (despite one big flaw. See below) exactly because of the endless customizing options it allows. The four Cheekie colors look intense in the pan but they apply sheer enough and blend well, so you don't end up with clown cheeks. You can wear them alone or blend two or more, which is what I usually do. Jami, the neutral rose-mauve is the only one I wear on its own because it looks very natural and the color is easy and as unfussy as it gets. I mix  Rosie or Peachie with Natural to bring them down a notch or two and get a color that has just the right amount of red or coral for me and adjust the levels of each shade according to mode, time of day and the other makeup I'm wearing.

The final effect is very nice natural flush. Just like Scarlett O'Hara biting her lips and pinching her cheeks in preparation for some flirting. Cheekie can also be used on the lips, but I prefer not to do that- most of the colors are too sheer to do anything for my pigmented lips.

The funny looking brush is very effective. It grabs enough color, blends it easily and isn't abrasive on skin. It covers just enough face space so you don't go overboard (blend well to avoid streaks).

The one big issue with this Julie Hewett product is longevity. The texture is pleasantly thin, but it also tends to fade and disappear within 6 hours if you don't do a meticulous job of cementing it into place between two coats of face powder. Otherwise it just melts right into your foundation. So this is certainly not a touch-and-go   blush, and it requires that you take your time doing your face and find the right combination of products that work for you and for these cheeks color (some HD powders tend to mute these blushes a little too much. I prefer a finishing powder that has a little yellow pigment).

Another thing of note: I own several other Julie Hewett products (lipsticks, balms, eye shadows and liners)- all of them are made in the US. The Cheekie palette is the only one made in China. I've noticed other brands that do the same- most of the line is manufactured in the US or Europe, but a handful of items are outsourced to China. The annoying part is that you usually don't have this info when ordering online (QVC is the only place I've seen that discloses the country of origin).

Bottom Line: Great concept, less than perfect implementation.

Cheekie Palette ($52 with brush, $42 without) is available from juliehewett.net (in the Palette section of the site, oddly missing from the Face category. The colors can also be purchased individually ($24 in a pot, $18 as a pan in a mirrored compact).

All photos are mine.

**You might have noticed blogger is having hiccups in the comment section. Some of you are getting errors when trying to upload a comment even though it actually goes through and gets sent to my email. Also, I'm unable to approve and publish your comments. Blogger usually fixes these issues withing 24 hours and comments aren't lost in the process, but in any case I'm saving the emails and will enter them into the Aftelier giveaway regardless if they end up actually posted. I'll reply to comments when everything is fixed, but if you have a more urgent question that requires a prompt reply you may want to contact me by email or on Twitter**

Redpoint Kabuki Brush and Retractable Lip Brush

The last Beautyfix kit was quite impressive with its offering. Among the items I picked were these two brushes by Redpoint, a brand that in new to me and is sold on QVC. I'm a firm believer that one can't have too many good makeup brushes, so I was happy to give these a try.

The Kabuki brush is more a mini than a full size one. Not that there's anything wrong with it, but it's more suited for a travel bag and quick fixes on the go. For my everyday use, when I take my time and want the absolute best products, I prefer fuller and thicker face brushes. I use it for loose or pressed powder and not for mineral foundation, which I'd rather apply with a larger brush that gives a better coverage. Still, it's adequately soft and the handle is comfortable and gives you a good grip, which is another thumb up as a travel accessory. I've had the brush for two or three months now and it has yet to shed even a single hair, so that's also an impressive achievement.

The retractable lip brush is excellent on every front. It doesn't have and doesn't need a cap, so that's one less thing to lose (and have to fish from the bottom of a makeup bag or a drawer). The brush itself is both soft and precise, works very well with any solid or liquid lipstick I've tried and gives perfect results every time. It's easy to clean with a standard makeup brush solution and have earned its place in my regular rotation.

Bottom line: These brushes added quite a bit of value to the Beautyfix kit.

Redpoint Kabuki and retractable lip brush (originally $24 each) are currently available from the company's website at 50% off and can also be part of a Beautyfix kit when you order it. I received a free press membership.

Photos are mine.

Edward Bess Luxury Face Brush and Makeup For Ever Kabuki Brush

My oldest and most reliable face brush is dying. I bought it 15 years ago at an upscale makeup studio/school. It was big, fluffy and could be used to apply all kinds of powders and bronzers. I remember the price tag was scary, but as the makeup artist who sold it had promised, with love and proper care it has served me for a very long time. The brand name has long faded from my memory and from the long and graceful handle which now only says "Made In France". The hair is natural and what still remains of it is as soft as ever, but I can no longer ignore the rapid shading that has made my brush much less dense and effective. It's time to find new loves.

The Luxury Face Brush from Edward Bess fits the name. From its sleek black box (that holds the brush Dracula-style) to the weight and the way it fits in my hand. The brush is soft and dense, made from natural bristles. The rounded head picks up the right amount of bronzer (a review of the Edward Bess Bronzer is coming soon) and other color products (Edward might cringe but I've tried it with Smashbox Soft Lights and Laura Geller Balance'N'Bronze with great results. Much better than the brushes produced by both these brands). Powder blushes look more natural when applied with this brush and blending is a breeze.

My other go-to face brush these days is the very hyped Makeup For Ever HD Kabuki Brush. It's definitely worthy of the buzz. This is a synthetic brush, thus less porous and dries more quickly when I wash it. It's great with powders, pressed and loose, mineral products (I actually started testing a few, details soon) and I've used it to give the face a quick flush of color with a bronzer, though you need to be careful not to overdo it.

Both the Edward Bess Luxury Face Brush and Makeup For Ever HD Kabuki Brush might be the best face brushes I've tried.

Bottom line: I no longer mourn the demise of my old brush.

Edward Bess Luxury Face Brush ($56) is available from Bergdorf Goodman and edwardbess.com.
Makeup For Ever HD Kabuki Brush ($39) is a Sephora exclusive and can be found online and in store.

All photos by me.

Bésame Cosmetics Voluptuous Lip Colour Set (Red Velvet)

'Tis the season for red lipstick.

I was happily surprised to see that Bésame Cosmetics is back with beautiful new products. Bésame is a small California-based niche makeup company that launched a few years ago with quite a bit of blog hype- we all loved the vintage-inspired packaging, attention to details and superb product quality. Things seemed to have fizzled  in the last couple of years, the line was pulled out of Henri Bendel  and seemed to be forever on clearance online with no new products to liven things up.

However, things are looking up. The website has undergone a serious face-lift and there's finally something new to get excited about: Voluptuous Lip Colour Set. These lip kits feature three items: lipstick, lip liner and a small lip brush. As you can see, the packaging is as gorgeous as ever, with that Old Hollywood touch. These products would look more at home on an Art Deco vanity than in my modern makeup storage system, but a girl has to keep her lipsticks straight, after all. The sets come in three colors: Red Velvet (a true movie star red, on the warm side but not orange. It looks lighter on skin than in the tube, as you can see in the swatch), Rupture Rose (a soft pink) and Champagne (a shimmery beige). The last two seemed too light for me, so I only bought Red Velvet.

The lipstick is creamy, has more moisture than Besmae's Vintage Lipstick line and a satiny finish. It's not a matte, but isn't shiny either. It's a true grownup lipstick with full coverage, the kind you need to take extra care to apply it right, but when you do it rewards you with a flawless, elegant look. That's where the other items in the kit come into play. The retractable lip liner is a perfect match to the lipstick and provides the defining required when wearing red. The tip is thin enough to draw a very exact line and you can also use it under the lipstick for extra staining and a good hold. Not that the lipstick needs much help in this department- it was much longer lasting than I expected, surviving a snack and a drink.

The lip brush looks small and cutesy, but is actually wonderfully designed. It's the perfect size and the handle fits effortlessly between the thumb and index finger. The brush is dense, soft and grabs the right amount of color. Serious red lipsticks always look better when applied with a brush so I'm very happy that these kits provide such a good one. There's a small velvet pouch for the lipstick, but I prefer to keep the brush in it, for neatness sake.

Bottom line: Now I just need the perfect dress.

Bésame Cosmetics Voluptuous Lip Colour Set ($35) is available online from besamecosmetics.com, which is where I bought mine, and at select retailers around the world (there's a store locator on the website).

All photos are mine.

The Model Brow Tools

One of the important lessons I've learned in nearly 25 years of using makeup is the importance of using the right tools and brushes. It's true for cream products, powders and everything in between. It's especially important when messing things up can make the entire face look off. Shaping and defining eyebrows is one such task (if you've seen the First Lady in the the Haiti PSA you know what I mean).

I'll skip the tweezers talk (You can't go wrong with Tweezerman. I own a few, one in a zebra print because everything looks better in zebra), because this is about eyebrow brushes. We all know these little two-sided combs, one half for lashes, the other side grooms eyebrows. For years I thought that was the only necessary tool, until I've learned the importance of using an eye shadow and an angled brush to fill and/or darken the brows, and how to work whatever product I'm using into the hair so it looks natural using a spoolie brush- the one that looks like a standard mascara wand.

You can find similar tools at Sephora and from several eyebrow specialists. I bought these three brushes from The Model Brow, a line created by makeup artist and brow expert Elke von Freudenberg.  The spoolie brush is currently out of stock, but it's really a great tool- it blends the color evenly and softens the look to the point the brows look natural instead of drawn. I like this specific brush because the bristles are soft enough and not abrasive. The head is also flexible and can be bended into a more comfortable angle.

The slant brush is one of several I use. It's the most essential eyebrow tool as far as I'm concerned. A good brush for filling, shaping and adding color/length/volume should be thin enough to do a very precise work but not too stiff or narrow that the result looks painted and weird. This Model Brow brush is one I use very often.

The 3" dual-ended brush fits nicely in the smallest makeup bag and is a decent travel tool. I find it too small to use comfortably most of the time, but I guess it's good to have something like that in one's purse for brow emergencies. The more useful side is a slanted brush to fill the eyebrows. The other side is a fluffy eye shadow brush, meant to apply a highlighter under the brow bone. I prefer much (much!) wider and thicker brushes for this purpose.

The Model Brow tools by Elke von Freudenberg ($16-$6) are available online at themodelbrow.com, which is where I bought mine.

Brush photos by me.
Vintage photo by Yale Joel for Life magazine, 1953.

Cover FX Natural FX Water Based Foundation SPF 15 (M40 Honey)

When I bought my emergency Cover FX Total Coverage foundation I also got the lighter product, Natural FX Water Based Foundation. This liquid foundation is a lot easier to use and can be applied on larger areas or the entire face (I've found that I prefer to use Total Coverage very sparingly and only on those spots where I have something to hide). It still gives very good coverage (medium+), but doesn't act as spackle and is far less drying.

I don't love it as much as my holy grail Chanel Vitalumiere, but that's simply because my preference for minimal coverage and a more dewy look. Then again, sometimes I do need a little more help, which is why I bought the Cover FX products in the first place, and for this purpose they don't disappoint. I've found that it works best over a silicone primer and a well-moisturized face. I'd still avoid using it on dry patches or on days the weather and skin feel parched.

It was harder to settle on a color for Natural FX than for Total Coverage. Once again I ended up with M40 (honey), but it took me longer to choose it, because before testing on my face I tried each foundation color on my wrist just to see the undertone, and M40 looked way too yellow. But while M30 (Cashew) was slightly a better fit on my arm, it was too pale with a pink hint when meeting my face. I suspect that if I want the best match ever I need to mix these colors. Something like two parts M40 and one part M30, but as it is I usually mix the Cover FX with my Chanel which gives me a similar result.

The main thing about this foundation is application. Sponges, wet or dry, lay it on too thick, and I've found that my fingers don't do an even enough job, which is important when you use anything that isn't of the minimal coverage family. I've been using it with several of the foundation brushes I already owned, but decided I need to do things right to get the most out of the products. I caved and ordered two Cover FX brushes: #160 Cream Foundation Brush and #170 Precision Foundation Brush (the one with the pointy tip). They only arrived today, so I have yet to test them, but I can tell you they look promising in density and weight.

Bottom line: An above average product and above average coverage. Gives picture-worthy results as long as you stay hydrated and moisturized.

Cover FX Natural FX Water Based Foundation ($40) and foundation brushes ($36-38) are available from Sephora. I bought the foundation in store and ordered the brushes online.

All photos by me.