NARS Wide Contour Brush #16

My Sephora brand angled contour eye brush (this particular shape and size has been discontinued for a while now) reached the end of its too-short life. It held for about three or four years, but was obviously not as well-made as I would have liked (it was from the regular line, not the Professional Platinum). But I loved it because the density, angle and the small-medium size were not only unusual but also incredibly efficient. But we're not here to talk about my dead brush but about my (unsuccessful yet) effort to replace it.

NARS Wide Contour Brush #16 is too big and wide to be a true contour brush or to fit in the crease as my old brush did, but it's a great tool otherwise. It's incredibly soft but till dense enough to pick the right amount of color for the entire lid. It can give a wash of a base color and even under the bone highlighting (I have enough lid space to land an airplane) and also does a good job blending whatever I throw at it. NARS No. 16 feels nice on skin and steady in my hand and delivers great results especially for soft and natural looks.

What doesn't NARS Wide Contour Brush #16 do? Real contouring. Or any precise and detailed work, especially with dark colors. It's just too wide and soft for this. But other than misnaming it, I don't have any complaints for NARS regarding this brush.

Bottom Line: Not an essential if you already have enough wide blending brushes, but nice to have, especially because of the somewhat unusual shape.

NARS Wide Contour Brush #16 ($33) is available from some department stores and narscosmetics.com.

All photos are mine.

Let's talk about it: NARS Bento Box Lip Set

This is an open thread about one of the most sought-after (at least in theory) products of the season- the Nars Bento Box lip set.

When I first received the press release about the limited edition Bento Box I did several things:
1.Got a serious case of the Covet
2. Added my name to the wait list on Nars website
3. More coveting
4. Reminded myself that Nars might be my least favorite brand when it comes to lipsticks.
5. Told myself to shut up. Coveting resumed.
6. Pondered the $125 price tag. Can it be worth it?
7. Deciding it probably isn't.
8. Wondering if I'm missing something.

Now here we are a month later. The set is available from Nars website as well as from Barneys, Neiman and Saks. It hasn't sold out yet though it's been out for a week now and supposedly there are only 1000 Bento Boxes in the US market (1000 more will be offered in the UK). I'm still looking at the photo and trying to figure it out.

The colors are pretty straight forward- one is a gorgeous red, the other is a dark pink. The Japanese aesthetics and the concept of lipstick in a cup you slowly apply with handcrafted tools are elegant and appealing. It says "luxury", which is probably why the Bento Box is so attractive to me. In theory.

Now, NARS promised the lipsticks are a new formula enriched with vitamin E, which is a very good thing considering their regular lipsticks are much too dry for me. Still, are they on the same level as Kanebo Sensai,  Cle de Peau and Tom Ford? Is the packaging really worth the price hike? And what about the brush? It looks  like a cousin of my beloved Nars Yachiyo blush brush with its hand-spun black wisteria handle. I use lip brushes quite often, but this is one brush category I never found a huge difference between top and mid-level brands as long as they're thick enough. Besides, if I were to drop top dollars on a special lip brush I'd probably go with this one:

That's the Kolinsky large craftsman lip brush from Hakuhodo, a real Japanese brand that makes professional makeup brushes (hakuhodousa.com).  Their entire Japanese Tradition series is on my wish list as well as the red-handled S100- they look exquisite and will probably get a lot more use than any two lipsticks in a cup.

What do you think: are you buying the set? Have you seen it in person? How do you feel about this product in general? Please share any thoughts you have about this.

Photos: NARS and hakuhodousa.com

Nars Small Domed Eye Brush #12

As someone with large lids and a deep crease, my favorite eye brushes are quite big and wide as to not create harsh lines and edges. But sometimes there's a need for a more precision in the crease or lid, especially when applying very pigmented dark colors to the outer corner. This is where Nars #12 Small Domed brush comes into play.

The unique thing about Nars #12 is that unlike many small brushes for detailed work it is fluffy and not very dense, so it won't pick too much color. The small dome fits into small spaces (which is why this brush is usually a top pick for Asian eyes) and deposits the right amount of dark color where you need it. The fluffiness makes it ideal for blending, and since it's small enough, the color will stay in the right place and won't spread too far.

Less pigmented colors and dramatic contrasts require a denser brush, but for certain colors and looks this is the best brush I've come across.

Nars Small Domed Eye Brush #12 ($27) is available from narscosmetics.com.

All photos by me with the help of Sophie and Giselle.

Nars Yachiyo Brush

Things I can't resist: kittens, fresh pasta, funky hats, figs, vintage Shalimar, handmade accessories, makeup brushes with a unique design. Nars Yachiyo brush falls under the last two categories. It's hand-spun and has an interesting handle made from black wisteria that wraps all around and feels very nice when you hold it.

One of the secrets of a really good blush brush is the amount of product is collects at one sweep and how much buffing and blending one needs to do after depositing the color on skin. That's what makes Nars Yachiyo the superb brush it is. There's something about the domed and tapered shape of the Yachio and its hair density that creates the magic- it makes even dark and very pigmented blushes almost fool-proof (as long as the color looks good on one's skin, that is).

The tapered shape makes the Yachiyo great for more delicate jobs like contouring, if you're so inclined. I played with a little and saw that it can be manipulated very well into small areas such as the sides of your nose. It's also good for touch highlighting either with the tip or sides, and some use it for cleanups, but personally, I prefer a simple fan brush for this purpose.

While this brush isn't the softest one I own, it feels pleasant enough. I've been using it for a little over a month, and while there was a little shading the first week, things are stable now. It survived its first washing (I wrapped the handle with a washcloth while doing it, to protect the black wisteria) and dried well. For such an expensive makeup brush I wish it came in nicer packaging (think Edward Bess brushes) or at least with a protective velvet pouch like Chanel or Guerlain, but that's my only complaint.

Nars Yachiyo Brush ($50) is available from narscosmetics.com and some deartment stores.

Photos by me.

Nars Rajasthan Duo Eye Shadow Fall 2010

It's pretty safe to say that Rajasthan, the midnight blue/metallic beige eye shadow duo, has proven to be the most irresistible item in the (very strong) Nars fall 2010 collection. Most brands have come up this season with a deep dark blue, but this one is unique enough to justify a purchase even if one already has a couple of the others.

At first I didn't think I'd wear both colors from this set at the same time. The beige looks darker in the compact than it is on skin, and while it's still not exactly a highlighter it's soft and neutral enough to be worn on the lid when I'm using the blue shade in the outer corners and along the lash line. My photos don't do justice to the depth and richness of the blackened midnight blue. It's absolutely gorgeous and can work both as a daytime eyeliner or for a super dramatic evening look. The shimmer is grownup, the texture satin-like, and while it's not as buttery as Guerlain or Shiseido, I think I prefer these Nars shadows to most Armani equivalents.

As with all Nars eye shadows, I find a primer necessary to keep the integrity and finish of the look. Used over my favorite base by Kanebo Sensai, Rajasthan stays put from morning to night and looks almost as fresh throughout the day.

Nars Rajasthan Duo Eye Shadow Fall 2010 ($32) is available from narscosmetics.com.

All photos are mine.

NARS Palladium Soft Touch Shadow Pencil Fall 2010

Ever since last year when Nars released the Soft Touch Shadow Pencil I wanted more colors in this range. The three original pencils became frequently used items in my rotation and I've come to rely on them when looking for a quick and reliable look. So the release of Palladium, a turquoise loaded with silver shimmer, as part of the fall 2010 collection was very welcome. Not that I get why this bright turquoise is a fall color or how exactly it works with the rest of the collection, but that's Nars for you. The secret for using most of their seasonal items is by combining them with neutrals from the permanent line.

Palladium is bright and fun. I started using it right away, since I love turquoise in summer. I wear it as an eye shadow on the lid blended well into a beige base or as a pop of color on the lash line. I also experimented with applying it into my bottom lashes and smudging it a little. The result was pretty and worked even better than I expected.

I've heard complaints about the Soft Touch pencils' staying power from people with oily skin, but since I don't have this issue the color stays put on me until I go after it with Bi-Facil. I've actually found that Palladium requires even more effort to remove, so I do a second cleansing with Almay wipes.

Bottom Line: Probably not an essential color, but lots of fun.
Bottom Line 2: Dear Francois, can we get a navy and a taupe next?

NARS Palladium Soft Touch Shadow Pencil for Fall 2010 ($24) is available from Sephora, many department stores and narscosmetics.com.

All photos are mine.

NARS Blush Douceur Fall 2010 Limited Edition

Nars Fall 2010 collection is stunning. There's no arguing about that. The eye colors are bold and each one of them can and should be the focal point of a full makeup look. I passed on the lip colors despite their gorgeousness because Nars lipsticks are too dry for me. But I was most curious about the new limited edition blush, Douceur, because the texture is so soft and sheer, and it lacks the gold shimmer found in most Nars blushes.  The question was: would it be too light to show up on my skin?

Some bloggers recommended Douceur for light skin tones and they're mostly right- if you're very tan or dark there's a good chance this blush wouldn't work for you, even when layered heavily. But my medium-pale olive skin actually loves this color because it's visible but looks very natural. I don't need to build the intensity or use a super thick brush. One swipe is all it takes for an easy effortless look.

The swatches show you just how compatible Douceur and I are. I swatched with a regular Chanel blush brush and only swiped once, just as I would do on my face. You can see that awful mosquito bite I got the other day right on my wrist (it hurts like you wouldn't believe), and the blush color is just a natural extension of the shade I get when bitten. Not a recommended method for testing makeup, but it works. You can also see that the NARS imprint in the compact fades as soon you swipe your brush over it. I started using it right away, without taking pictures first, so by the time I got to photograph the blush it was almost gone.

Bottom Line: I hope they reconsider the limited edition thing. I want Douceur in the permanent line.

NARS Douceur Blush ($26) for Fall 2010 is available from most decent department stores, Sephora and narscosmetics.com.

Photos and swollen wrist are all mine.

Nars Douceurs De Paris Palette Saks Exclusive

I stumbled across Nars Douceurs De Paris (Pleasures of Paris) eye shadow palette around the same time I was contemplating Chanel's fall 2010 collection. It was actually this Nars palette that helped me decide to pass on the  Enigma quad. While the colors are not similar except in a general fall atmosphere, it's the incredible versatility of the Nars palette that won me over. All six shades are wearable and blend together perfectly. The textures go from matte to satin with shimmer, so there are daytime options as well as evening looks.

I've been having a lot of fun playing with different combinations of the eye shadows, pairing and blending. The one color I wasn't too sure about when looking at it in the pan was Violetta. I was worried it would be a bit too cool and lavender, but as you can see from the swatch that's not the case at all. Since my eyelids are actually darker than my wrist, Violetta works as a smoky nude, and when combined with the highlighter, Abyssinia, I get a subtle no-makeup look. Just add the thinnest possible line of black eyeliner, black mascara and a bold lipstick and the result is, indeed, very classic French.

All shadows in this palette are very soft and silky, even Cordura, the shimmery dark brown. Pigmentation is very good, blending is easy and you can build up the color if you so desire. An eye primer keeps the colors in place for 12 hours or longer with no need for touch ups.

Bottom Line: excellent and fun.

Nars Douceurs De Paris Palette ($55) is exclusive to Saks and available online.

All photos are mine.

Inspiration

Here's the inspiration for the look Francois Nars created for the runway on Marc Jacobs' Fashion Week show:

"I wanted the models to have a dirty look as if the hair and makeup had been slept in,"

~Marc Jacobs

“This look is what you’d see on a girl from the East Village or St. Germain des Pres-an existentialist with a modern twist. These girls are sexy and cool. Their makeup looks dirty and worn out as if it has been on all night but still translates beautifully on the runway.”

~Francois Nars

I guess I'm too old to get inspired by girls who stay up all night and sleep in their makeup.

Face chart and information: Nars PR.

Nars Holiday Collection 2009 Taiga and Mousson

Better late than never.

Nars Holiday 2009 collection was very strong on the eye makeup front. I bought and loved the Soft Touch pencils, but couldn't skip some of the regular eye shadows: Taiga (the duo) and Mousson (single cream eye shadow).

Taiga combines a moderately shimmery dark (almost sooty) khaki/olive color with a very sheer, super shimmery golden ivory. I bought it for the khaki which was an instant love. The color is buildable, versatile (can be used on the entire lid or for lining) and looks very flattering against my skin and eyes. Blended with the right nude base it's daytime friendly, but can be easily used for an elegant evening look. The shimmery golden ivory is not something I would have picked had it come as a single. There's very little pigment there (see swatch, or rather- you can't see anything, which is the point) and so much shimmer and glimmer that it's an evening-only product for me. Furthermore, no eye primer I've tried managed to make it hold still and avoid that fairy dust look. However, when brushed over a matte nude shadow (I use Le Metier de Beaute) of excellent quality, it becomes a gorgeous brow bone highlighter and stays in place with no fallout. So it definitely has its use.

I'm not a big fan of cream eye shadows in a pan. I much prefer the excellent Laura Mercier ones that come in a little tube. But as I was playing with the collection at my local Bloomies, the metallic khaki color of Mousson was irresistible and as I tried on its own as well as over a powder shadow it was too pretty to pass. The website describes it as "silver sage", but the shiny finish is quite warm and I'd say it's more of a very pale gold than real silver. It's a lot more dominant compared to the khaki from Taiga, as you can see in the swatches, and they actually go well together for an evening look.

Wearing Mousson over a powder shadow (and a primer) prevents creasing. Still, I wouldn't wear it for 16 hours straight if you don't have a chance to do some touch up, as the lovely finish tends to fade after about six hours. I've been playing with it as a wash, as a top layer for eyeliner and in the crease. It's a winner, for sure, even if I have to use my pinky to apply it- it works better than any of the brushes I have because the texture is quite dense.

Bottom line: Pretty.

Nars Taiga eye shadow duo ($32) and Mousson cream shadow ($21) are available from most department stores, Sephora and narscosmetics.com. I bought them at my local Bloomingdale's.

Photos by me.

Nars Spring 2010 Makeup Look: La Chamade

I have yet to post about the eye shadows from Nars Holiday 2009 collection and Spring 2010 was already announced (launching on their website on January 15th). I guess that's what I'm doing tomorrow morning. Thankfully, the colors aren't limited edition and can easily be purchased in store and online.

I usually ignore press releases about upcoming makeup collection until I can actually dip my fingers into the products and see what the hype is about, but there was something about the new Nars spring collection that actually made me take a good look and already plan what I want to get. It might be Francois Nars' choice of Amber Valetta as the face of the collection or the inspiration he got from Catherine Deneuve in La Chamade. I can't resist a little French Retro, even when there's no chance I'm ever leaving the house wearing that much gold on my eyes or all this blush on my face (and Amber shouldn't, either).

There's also my perpetual pet peeve with Nars' featured looks. They only use a couple of items from the actual collection to create it plus several other products. As per the press release:

On the eyes, François applied the golden moss shade of the NARS Camargue
Duo Cream Eyeshadow over the entire upper lid, then blended outward. The
sienna shade was used to define the lower lash line with the NARS Push Eyeliner
Brush. He then layered the sienna side onto the lid and brow bone, and swept
the hue into the lash line. For additional brightness, NARS Albatross Highlighting
Blush was dusted onto the eye, and NARS Nabucco Eyeliner Stylo was swept
on to line the top lashes. NARS Blondie Single Eyeshadow was used to create
an impactful brow. Lastly, two coats of NARS Larger Than Life Lengthening
Mascara were applied to the top and bottom lashes.

In any case, I'll be skipping the Camargue duo in favor of the second one, Kuala Lumpur (it's the top one in the stock photo), unless they are much different in person. As far as lip color goes, I've learned my lesson and will pass on the lipstick- Nars formula is way too dry for me, so I'll stick with my Edward Bess lipsticks for a natural look and top them with the strawberry red Ophelia lip gloss from this collection.

The sky blue glitter pencil? I'm pretty sure I'm not the target consumer for that one. And as for Catherine Deneuve as the inspiration, here's the real thing:

Nars Soft Touch Shadow Pencil

I haven't been enamoured with a new Nars product in ages, so it was great to discover the company hasn't lost the magic. The Soft Touch Shadow Pencils are three eye shadow colors (I hope more colors would be released at some point) in crayon form. The shadows are very soft and glide easily with no pressure, and they stay in place until blended (I use a domed blending brush with shortish hair from Sephora's Professional line), so they are great for a quick, no-mess application on the go. The color intensity is moderate, but it's buildable as well as blendable, and the shimmer is soft and flattering.

I always (always!) use an eye primer, and at least in cool weather there's no melting or migrating. However, I have a non-scientific feeling a base product is essential for a good staying power- the pencils' texture is quite soft and color distribution isn't very dense (which is a good thing- it makes the product what it is).

As far as the colors go, I enjoy wearing them together, separately and combined with some other favorite eye shadows. Goddess is a highlighter with a somewhat pink based, but not obscenely so. It can be used in the inner corner of the eye or just under the brow bone. Skorpios is a true bronze. I wear it in the crease with Chanel Bronze single eye shadow. It's such an easy, wearable color that works well for many looks. But the star of the Soft Touch Shadow Pencils is Aigle Noir. It's a muted black with gold shimmer and a somewhat greenish effect. It's perfect for a sultry evening look and can be smudged and smoked, if you're so inclined. I wear Aigle Noir with a black liquid liner and blend it into the crease.

Nars Soft Touch Shadow Pencil ($24 each) is available from Nars counters and Sephora. I bought mine at Barneys.

Photos by me.