Tauer Perfumes- Eau d'Epices

The first thing I did upon reading Andy Tauer's description of Eau d'Epices as "an Indian basket of spices" was comb the note list thoroughly checking for cumin. Twice. Thankfully, no cumin was found, so I could wear the perfume around the husband (a spouse who hates cumin and works from home can make one's testing schedule a bit complicated).

Now that we established that Eau d'Epices is not Tauer's answer to Arabie and its back alleys of the Souk, let's talk about what it is (other than gorgeous). This is a classic Tauer in the sense of offering the familiar Tauerade accord in the dry-down: a balsamic cistus, ambergris and a dry woody thing in the background, but the potent potion is less assertive at first and gives a lot of breathing room both to the spicy opening and to the incredibly sensual floral heart. Eau d"epices is breathtakingly complex and requires a lot of attention the first few times you smell it. The fragrance takes you on an exotic journey and fills your mind with all kinds of Arabian Nights imagery (and not a Disney version, I promise). It's all there- the dancers, the rugs and the genies. From Aladdin's cave to sultry nights in opulent gardens and orchards around the Caliph's palace.

The thing is that once you make friends with this colorful vision, Eau d'Epice becomes warm easy to wear. Yes, one must love incense and spice, not to mention the Tauer accord, but if you do, this masterfully crafted and blended perfume  is a must-try for both men and women.

Eau d'Epices by Tauer Perfumes ($125, 50ml EDP) is available from Luckyscent and tauerperfumes.com. The sample for this review was sent for my consideration by the perfumer.

Art: Arabian Nights by Ione Citrine

Tauer Perfumes- Orange Star

**Reminder: the Mystery Of Musk giveaway of Kewdar by Anya's Garden is still open**

People reading this post belong to one of two groups: those who are familiar with Andy Tauer's work and those who've never sampled any of his perfumes. I almost feel like I need to break this review into two parts according to these groups, because if I'm going to talk about Andy's recognizable Tauerade, his familiar ambergris accord or make comparisons to Incense Rose, some of you are going to get all glazed eyed and hear Charlie Brown's teacher blahblah-ing in your head before clicking away from here. On the other hand, if I go into lengthy description and explanations of the way the orange and mandarin joyfully explode in the opening to reveal a dry terrain, a pathway you take on a hot day on your way to the beach, smelling salty breeze and the dried grass and weeds baking in the sun, the other group might get impatient and want to know the difference between the citrus top notes here and in Incense Rose, is there any incense here and how dry is Orange Star compared, say, to L'Air du Desert Marocain.

So let's take another approach. I'll start with the bottom line: Orange Star is a terrific perfume. It can appeal to both men and women and is wearable outdoors on the hottest days while having enough substance to be interesting in arctic airconditioned spaces. It has a reasonable sillage even after the supernova of the opening notes calms down and a 24 hour staying power. With these details out of the way, let's go one level deeper.

I feel like in creating Orange Star, Andy Tauer has achieved a new level of elegance. I'd never use the word minimalistic when describing a Tauer perfume, but there's something deceivingly haiku-ish and streamlined in this fragrance until you start paying careful attention to its nuances. Its uniqueness doesn't hit you on the head right away and it can serve as a getaway to other perfumes in the line because it would allow the wearer to get acquainted with the quality and richness of favorite Tauer themes one by one and maybe with a little less challenge along the way (though take this statement with a grain or two of salt- I've been wearing the entire line for several years now and have the skin chemistry that allows me to spray Lonestar Memories on a steamy August day and enjoy it).

Which brings us to what it smells like and the emotions/story Orange Star evokes.

The big bang of carefree sweet citrus places Orange Star in the uplifting category. It shares the optimistic characteristics of Incense Rose but is a bit less exuberant and romantic about it (the lack of rose, most likely). The sunshine is all there, though, and it feels like opening your bedroom window on the first day of summer vacation as the season stretches ahead of you with no end in sight.

The first thing to do is pack up your stuff and go to the beach. I used to do that a lot in my late teens and early twenties. Pack my bag, get on the bus and within 45 minutes I'd be right by the sand dunes and the path that goes down to the beach. I could smell the dry earth, weeds anid shrubs growing between the rocks and that unmistakable salty sea air (well, on a good day, when there was an actual breeze and the air didn't carry the smell from the town's sewage, but why spoil the fantasy?).

Let's make one thing clear- there's absolutely nothing aquatic, marine or whatever you want to call it. The sea and salt are part of the ambergris accord and are delicate and light as the elusive breeze in the heat of summer. It feels like an open sky with nary a cloud, and this lightness is supported by the clean floral notes. They are listed as violet flower and orange blossom, but don't expect a bouquet or anything either lush or delicate and dainty. It's more like pale wildflowers growing here and there along the path and surviving the sun  and salt.

Orange Star is anchored with a little wood, some resinous shrubs, mineral-like earthiness and a hint of sweet incense that will smell familiar to those who tried LdDM and the two incense perfumes. It has more inhibitions and incense isn't even listed as an official note here, so those with frankincense and myrrh phobias need not worry. It's this base that should have a wonderful appeal even as the weather cools down. The sweaters I wear when the a/c gets the best of me have been holding on to it and smelling utterly delicious.

Orange Star ($120, 50ml) is available from Luckyscent.

Art by Pamela Sukhum

And The Winner Is...

The Winner of the very special Tauer Perfumes giveaway is:

Fernando

Please send me an email and let me know how to contact you.

I want to thank Andy for his wonderful generosity and everyone else for participating- new and old readers. I'm especially happy to "meet" longtime readers who commented here for the first time, and want to welcome all the perfume lovers who have just discovered this blog.

Don't forget: Andy's Advent Calendar is continuing on his blog. Please keep visiting this page for more links and opportunities to win his prizes.

Wishing you a wonderful holiday season!

Photo by Andy Tauer.

Andy Tauer's Advent Calendar, A Giveaway And Jelly Donuts

I like the idea of Advent, even if as a Jew it doesn't have the same meaning to me as for those who actually observe the season. But the concept of an expectant waiting for something joyous and wonderful is very nice and goes well with other Midwinter themes.

For me, the most wonderful thing about Hanukkah has always been my mother's jelly donuts, which were the reason I counted the days till the first or second night of the festivities, when my mom would spend the whole afternoon making them. Oil-fried foods are a big part of the holiday's tradition (to commemorate of the oil that sustained the Temple's Menorah for eight nights and eight days and what once was your shapely thighs), and nothing is better than homemade donuts. The classic version calls for jelly, but we've also experimented with dulce de leche and Nutella (the husband's favorite). If you ask me, blackcurrant jelly is best, but those who didn't grow up on a very particular way of making Hanukkah donuts would enjoy it equally filled with any not-too-sweet jelly or jam.

As my gift to you and a contribution to Andy Tauer's Advent Calendar, here is my mother's recipe:

Nina's Jelly Donuts

For the dough:

A little more than 5 cups all purpose flour

1 pack dry yeast

1 1/2 cups warm milk

1 egg

2 egg yolks

4 tbs melted butter

2tbs cognac

4 tablespoons sugar

½ teaspoon salt

Frying:

1 bottle vegetable oil

Filling:

blackcurrant jelly/jam/confiture

powdered sugar for sprinkling- preferably vanilla sugar

How to:

1. Dissolve yeast in ¼ cup warm milk (100F degrees)

2. Mix together all dough ingredients, yeast mixture included. Add the flour one cup at a time, making sure how much of the last cup is needed. Knead together JUST until smooth and non-sticky. Don’t overdo it. Let rise for two hours, covered with a towel in a warm spot.

3. Halve the dough without much kneading, .

4. Roll out one half and flatten it until it’s less than ¼ inch thin.

5. Take an empty glass or a round cookie cutter of equal size and GENTLY mark with it circles on the dough leaf.

6. Place 1½ teaspoons of jelly in the middle of each circle.

7. Roll out the other part of the dough. Gently and carefully use it to cover the jelly-filled other half. Don’t let too much air inside.

8. Cut dough circles using the glass/cookie cutter. Make sure that the jelly is in the middle of each donut.

9. Put donuts on a flour-sprinkled baking pan, cover and let rise again for about 45 minutes.

10. Heat oil in a large (but not too deep) pan that has a cover. When it’s very hot put a few donuts in and cover for 5 seconds. Lift cover; check if the sides are already golden. If so, turn donuts and fry uncovered.

11. Fry until golden and nice, remove to a paper towel covered tray and sprinkle with powdered sugar.

Tips and Notes:

1. The reason you don’t want to over knead the dough is to not make it too dry and floury, which might result in donuts that won’t seal.

2. The same goes for the amount of flour in the recipe. It’s usually a little more than 5 cups, but add gradually.

3. According to my mom, adding cognac to the dough makes it absorb less oil.

4. Covering the jelly with the second part of the dough is easier than it sounds. Use both hands.

5.  My mom adds peeled chunks of carrot in the oil. They absorb the frying odor.

6. Use the best jelly you can find.

7. These donuts freeze well and are great when defrosted and microwaved for about 35 seconds each. Just be careful, the jelly is hot.

8. Gym membership not included but very much needed after a week of snacking on these donuts.

And now to the real giveaway: a Thuja root box with a full bottle of the winner's choice from Tauer Perfumes, shipped directly from Zurich. All you need to do is leave a comment on this post. The contest is open to all.
I'll announce the winner tomorrow.


Photo of Hanukkah donuts: life.com

Winners of Tauer Un Rose Chypree Samples

Kamo and Edwardian are the lucky winners of Andy Tauer's Un Rose Chypree samples. Please email me your address.

Also, if by any chance the person who left comment no. 52 (the anonymous one on June 20, 2009 9:25 PM eastern time) is reading this, please also send me an email (the address is here on the right).

Thanks to everyone who participated!


image: Tauer Perfumes

Top 10 Memorable Masculine Fragrances

In honor of Father's Day, Elena of Perfume Shrine and I wanted to honor men and the scents they wear.

Fathers, spouses, old boyfriends, scent twins- they all have one thing in common: they (and us) create memories. Nothing is more emotionally triggering than scent. Think of your father's old cologne from the 70s (did he wear Old Spice? Did he later graduated to the original Polo?) or the Drakkar Noir of your first boyfriend. Did you ever date a man who wore Creed Green Irish Tweed and made you think of Cary Grant (the story is that GIT was created for him)? Did your little brother drench himself in Axe before his first date? Maybe you had a great teacher or work mentor who used to wear Grey Flannel, or had your heart broken by a Chanel Égoïste fan (I did). The point is that it's not just our Shalimar that creates special moments.

Things have changed since the days of the ubiquitous bottle of Polo, and the choices are many. Here's my list of (very) memorable masculine scents for the unforgettable men in our lives. In no particular order:

1. Tauer Perfumes-Lonestar Memories
Smoky, strong and outdoorsy at times, warm leather, herbal with a hint of Lapsang Souchong. More interesting and sophisticated than the cowboy image.

2. Tom Ford Private Blend-Tuscan Leather
Soft, smooth and as leathery as they come. Warm and inviting, evokes both a leather jacket and an old study full with leather-bound books.

3. Mazzolari-Lui
An animalic patchouli like no other. Sweet and dangerous (especially if over-applied).

4. Serge Lutens-Gris Clair
Burnt lavender. A bit brooding, yet clean and crisp.

5. Guerlain-Vetiver
A great classic. Citrus top over green vetiver. Perfectly tasteful.

6. Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier-Iris Bleu Gris
Dry to the bone, earthy without being dirty.

7. JAR-Shadow
Damp and mysterious. A visit to dark cellars and forgotten attics.

8. Frederic Malle-Vetiver Extraordinaire
Dry and bitter vetiver, yet still green. A scent to take over the boardroom before going out to take Manhattan.

9. Hermes-Terre d'Hermes
Perhaps the most popular in this bunch, yet somewhat controversial. Orange peel and minerals, crisp and strong.

10. Comme des Garcons-Monocle Scent One: Hinoki
Incense, evergreens, a forest floor.

Please visit Perfume Shrine for more unforgettable masculine fragrances.

Tauer Perfumes- Un Rose Chypree (and a giveaway)

Today's article about the woes of the perfume industry from the NY Times, The Hunt for That Genie in a Bottle, was very aptly timed, as far as I'm concerned. The big companies and industry leaders are busy soul-searching and naval-gazing, trying to understand where they went wrong (most of us actually have an answer or two, including what they can do with some of their bottled dreck). While they ponder how to win back our hearts, the independent perfumers have been doing things right for a while now.

Quoted in the article, Veronique Gabai-Pinsky, president of Aramis and the Designer Fragrance division of Estée Lauder, said: “We have to make sure what we bring to market is meaningful and relevant”. Ms. Gabai-Pinsky is right, of course, and I highly recommend that she gets herself a sample (or two or three) of Andy Tauer's work, especially his new perfume, Un Rose Chyprée, because this is exactly the kind of emotional, meaningful and luxurious fragrance so sorely missed on the shelves of mainstream stores.

Part of a new series, Mémorables, and a new concept: smaller bottles of the highest quality juice, Un Rose Chyprée is uncompromising in its intention to capture your heart and take you someplace wonderful. It's a real perfume and doesn't try to pretend otherwise. It will make you smell like you know what you're doing, the way perfumes of yore used to be.

Andy Tauer has taken one of the classic structures, the chypre (an accord built on a base of oakmoss and labdanum and topped with bergamot), and gave it a new life. Chypre lovers will be thrilled to find their old, elegant acquaintance here. But it's also a modern perfume that feels very much alive, young without being juvenile, and hopelessly romantic.

If you've smelled Tauer's Incense Rose, you're already familiar with the uplifting, radiant clementine note. Here it's the perfect accompaniment to the roses, making them appealing even to someone who rarely wears rose well (that would be me, though I've never met a Tauer rose I didn't like). Technically speaking, Un Rose Chypree is an elaborate study of rose: The absolute and the steam distilled essential oil. A 15 ml Rose chyprée bottle contains one pound of fresh rose petals. Emotionally speaking, this roses are full of beauty and longing.

An interesting aspect of Un Rose Chypree is how while the perfume opens up and develops on skin, both the juicy citrus and the opulent rose are constantly present. From the spicy heart to the distinct Tauerade base, the metaphoric brushstrokes in a rich but slightly sheer orange color, are always there.

Another wonderful trait of the perfume is its strength and tenacity. One spray scents me for the day (or evening. It's a wonderful date night fragrance). When I wear it, it's big and feminine. A tiny half a spray on my husband's skin is just as beautiful, only quiet and withdrawn, with a more pronounced oakmoss note. In both cases, it has that feeling of a real luxury item, handmade by an artist who knows and loves his craft and respects his customers. It simply doesn't get any better than this.

And now for the giveaway:
Thanks to Andy's generosity, I have two samples to give away. If you're interested, please say so in the comments. The one and only condition is that you haven't won a sample of this very perfume through any of the other blogs that offered it. The winners will be announced by the end of next week.

Un Rose Chypree($75 for 15 ml) will be available July 1st from Luckyscent.com (Scent Bar in L.A.). They currently accept pre-orders for bottles and samples. If you live in Europe you might want to order directly from tauerperfumes.com or check the site for distribution in your country. The samples and bottle I received were a gift from Andy.

Art: Rose Closeup by Declan McCullagh

The Two Faced Perfume: Vetiver Dance- Andy Tauer (and samples giveaway)

Vetiver Dance is not what it seems.

Some vetivers are rich and lush. Think about the chocolate and jungle greens in the velvet that is Vetiver Oriental (Serge Lutens). Then there are the cold, crisp ones like Encre Noir (Lalique), Vetiver Extraordinare (Malle) and the wonderfully bitter and astringent Route de Vetiver (MPG). Guerlain Vetiver is crisp and dry, but oddly warm, and the same can be said about Lubin's Le Vetiver, though its opening is a lot more interesting than the drydown.

Andy Tauer's Vetiver Dance is all of the above or none of the above, depending on what your skin and your nose make of it.

I fisrt tried it several months ago, when the weather was still very warm and unforgiving. While the very first try of a minuscule amount was very Taueresque and promising, a full wearing on a hot day nearly killed the fragrance for me. There's a very strong lily of the valley note that jumped at me right away, suffocating the top notes completely. It surprised me, because a similar LOTV treatment in the mythological Hyacinth And The Mechanic was lush wonderful. Then again, I only tried it in those bitter cold days of late winter when one is willing to sell her soul for any promise of spring.

The thick LOTV made it hard to focus on the other notes, even though the perfume's development was interesting even then. There were all the loved companions to the vetiver: an herbal note, a bitter crispness, the return of the promised grapefruit peel. I liked the late drydown, with its hint of dry Tauerade: ambergris, cedar wood, tonka and cistus are signature notes. But the mean and green was still somewhere there. It didn't look promising.

As the weather became cooler I tried Vetiver Dance again and again and again, discovering it does much better when allowed to bloom outside. I found sweetness in the top and middle notes and an incredible dry vetiver later on. There's a point after about two hours on the skin, when the perfume changes direction right under your nose. Literally. It becomes something else entirely. While I've learned to appreciate the artistry of the first phase (face?) of the fragrance, what I would have loved is a bottle containing only the second one.

Vetiver Dance is incredibly strong and potent. It lasts all day even when applied lightly, which is probably the right way to go given its strength. My guess is that it's a challenging scent only if you have muguet issues (I can't stand Diorissimo), and even then it's worth a try because it smells like nothing else. The amazingly rich drydown alone is worth the experience, even if you decide the whole thing is too much.

Thanks to Andy's generosity, I have some samples to give away, so please leave a comment if you're interested. I'll do a kitten-assisted draw next week and announce the winners.

Vetiver Dance is available in the USA from both Luckyscent (Scent Bar) in L.A. and Aedes in NYC. Bottles and samples can also be purchased directly from Tauer Perfumes in Switzerland. My samples were free.

Image: Organic Forming No. 3 by Heidi Vaught

Effulgent- Tauer Perfumes Incense Rosé (and a giveaway!)

Part of my process when writing a perfume review is finding an image that captures it. Sometimes it's an art work, other times it's a scene from a movie (an old classic, because that's where my heart is). Unless I have a very specific idea right from the start, I google ideas, feelings, keywords until I find just the right one. Preparing to write about Incense Rosé, I didn't have to do any of that. The kaleidoscopic arabesque that's on the flyer that accompanies the bottle is perfectly evocative of this lovely scent.

Oh yes, if there was any doubt: I love Incense Rosé. A lot.

Just as much as Incense Extreme is a stark, serious with the cleanest lines and notes, Rosé is joyous and exuberant. Clementine and bergamot are not necessarily notes one would expect to find in an Andy Tauer creation. But what they do here is lend a sweet, radiating quality to the Tauerade base. They open rich and almost boozy and don't fully leave until very late into the dry-down, when the very pretty and streamlined rose takes their place, filling and illuminating the gaps between the darker, incensy parts.

As the scent develops, the familiar labdanum and ambergris that form the dry Tauerade emerge. They are spiced and prettified, making the perfume just a bit more feminine than what we're used to, though not girly or predictably femme. It's just lighter, full of joy.

The big surprise for me was deep and late into the dry-down. After the incense, labdanum, orris, cedar and ambergris calm down, I'm left with one of the most gorgeous myrrh notes I've smelled this side of Diptyque L'Eau Trois. And it lasts forever. Both in the air after I spray it and on my skin. It's still faintly there after a shower and demands serious scrubbing to make it go away.

Incense Rosé will be available at Scent Bar in L.A. and their online store Luckyscent starting March 29th. On that Saturday, Andy Tauer himself will make an appearance at the store (click the link to RSVP), to talk about his work and demonstrate some of the ingredients that go into the bottle. I met him last year at the launch of Reverie au Jardin, and can't recommend enough that if you're anywhere in the Los Angeles area, try to make it to the event. It's a rare opportunity to meet such an artist, and a lot of fun because Andy in person is as charming as he is on his blog.

I'm often asked about the best way to try and learn about niche and artisan fragrances. My advice is to start with something extra wonderful that would change the way you think about perfume. This is definitely a great place to begin.

I have a couple of samples to give away. Please leave a comment if you're interested.
Bonus entry if you can guess the reason behind the title of this post, Effulgent (obscure pop culture reference, nothing to do with perfume).

The sample I've been using, as well as the ones for the giveaway were sent to me by Andy. Samples and bottles of Incense Rosé and the entire Tauer line are available in the US from Luckyscent ($90-$100). For European distributors, please see Tauer Perfumes website.

Image: Deszö Bödi for Tauer Perfumes. To read more about the artist and this creation click here.

Winners: Tauer Incense Extrême

The lucky winners in the Incense Extrême giveaway are:

Edwardian
Divina
Flora

Please email me your address.

Shadows- Tauer Perfumes Incense Extrême (and a readers giveaway!)

The samples of Incense Extrême arrived a few weeks ago, the same day as the package containing my new camera. I ignored the bigger box and ripped open the envelop with the Swiss postmark. You got to have priorities and digital cameras don't smell.

Like all Tauer fragrances, Incense Extrême takes you places. While Andy described it on his blog as a minimalist scent, there's absolutely nothing here (thankfully!) to remind you of the biggest minimalist of them all, Jean-Claude Ellena (can I say thankfully again?). You get that unmistakable Tauer touch which goes from the top notes all the way through to the base that has more than a little of the "Tauerade". The frankincense is peppery and fresh at first, then becomes darker, woody and dry. Very very dry.

The "extrême" in the name might make you expect an over-the-top Catholic church on steroids kind of incense, or the entire CdG Incense Series crammed into a single bottle (Zagorsk would eat them all). This is not that scent. Instead, you get the different faces of frankincense, paired with a little wood and a little orris. Some feel it has a lot in common with Andy's limited edition, Orris, but my skin doesn't support this theory. Orris is more kaleidoscopic with the different layers picking here and there and revealing themselves almost randomly. Incense Extrême is much more streamlined and pulled-together. There's starkness in it, bold and clean, it dries down almost soapy, remains close to the skin, with just a hint of the shadows lurking from beneath.

Andy has warned me that this scent is basically masculine and would suit my husband better than me. A masculine label has ever stopped me before and I like wearing this scent, but when I smelled it on my husband I knew what he meant. A man's skin (or my man's skin) brings out more of the dark and mysterious part of the scent, those dark silhouettes on a bare ground.

Incense Extrême would be available starting tomorrow from Luckyscents. I have a few samples to give away, so if you're interested please leave a comment. I'll announce the winners early next week.

Art: Pine Shadows by Hamilton Aguiar from the Vinings Gallery.

Favorite Things 2007

In what has become an annual tradition, a group of beauty, fashion and perfume bloggers have joined in this little project of bringing you lists of our favorite things from the year that's coming to an end. Not all of these were actually launched in 2007. A few are a bit older, but these are the things that made my year, got me excited and helped me stay pretty. Links to the complete original reviews are provided whenever available.

In no particular order:

1) Zoya Nail Polish- The colors are fabulous, the seasonal collections are gorgeous, but in a very saturated market, what stands out most is the quality. Add to that a much less toxic formula, free of several scary chemicals you usually find in nail colors, and this is a winning product. No one else could have made me try on a green polish and fall in love with it.

2) Chanel Hand Cream- Since we're on the subject of beautiful hands, Chanel Body Excellence is not just a fabulous hand cream that makes skin softer, it's also a shielding cream that forms a thin but powerful barrier and it has anti-aging ingredients. My aging skin rejoiceth.

3) Chanel Nail Color in Tulip Noir- While nothing beats the quality of Zoya, the color that mesmerized me most this year was the limited edition Tulip Noir from the fall collection. With all due respect to the black nail craze (and the much talked about navy and Tiffany's blue), nothing is sexier than red, and Chanel did it the best possible way with this deep metallic color.

4) Bobbi Does Metallics- Yes, limited edition palettes are starting to annoy everyone. So does shimmer. Yet, in a year full of both, Bobbi Brown Metallics were a huge hit and deservingly so. The colors in all four palettes were beautiful and surprisingly wearable. The "metallics" is just a light finish for a wonderful texture, making it classy and elegant, as you'd expect from a line known for its natural, non-painted looks. My favorite was the Velvet Plum set, a good choice that has become part of my regular rotation.

5) Chanel Red Lips- There are many excellent brands who make wonderful lip colors. Some have better textures or stay put longer. But nobody makes bold colors like Chanel. Between Hibiscus and Catalina from the Garden Party fall 2007 collection and the Rouge Allure in Garnet Fire, my lips have barely seen a nude color in months.

6) Bobbi Brown Eyeliner Gel- This was the year I stopped being afraid of an eyeliner brush, and it's all because of Bobbi's gel eyeliners. The texture is really of a gel, which makes it unlikely to run, drip or smudge, even at the hands of a certified klutz. It's easy to apply and control, and the result is movie-star-perfect. It stays put until you go after it with a makeup remover without fading or flaking. The large selection of colors doesn't hurt, either.

7) Benefit Silky Finish Lipstick- It looks like a lipstick and feels like a gloss. This was the lip product that made my mother start wearing lipstick, which is nothing short of a miracle. We both wear Dessert First, a pretty plum.

8) Tauer Perfumes- It's been exactly a year since I discovered Andy Tauer and his perfumes, all of which were love at first sniff. 2007 has seen Andy launch the beautiful and delicate Reverie au Jardin, a scent that has seen the husband and me competing over who gets to wear it on hot summer days. If I were into a signature holy grail scent, I'd live in a cloud of L'Air du Desert Marocain. But since I'm happily promiscuous when it comes to fragrance, I can't wait till January 23rd, when his new Incense Extreme is launched.

9) Serge Lutens at Bergdorf and Barneys- My other favorite perfume mastermind. Loving Serge can be very frustrating, because he doesn't take us, American perfume nuts, seriously enough, and keeps half of his creations as non-exports. These scents are exclusive to his Paris boutique at Les Salon du Palais Royal Shiseido, and while they can be purchased online if you live in Europe, they will not ship to the US no matter how much you beg or what bribes and sexual favors you offer. This is why I'm thankful for every limited release they do here. Currently you can get Fumerie Turque, Chene and Chergui exclusively at Barneys, Vetiver Oriental (see below no. 14) at most authorized Lutens seller (I got mine at Aedes), and the biggest surprise of the year was the sudden appearance of two bell jars at Bergdorf: Un Bois Sepia and Bois et Fruits. Let's hope this is only the beginning.

10) The Perfumed Court- Speaking of hard to find fragrances: Once upon a time, if you wanted to sample a scent that isn't sold at the usual niche suspects (Luckyscent and Aedes both sell samples of almost everything they have in stock), or if you wanted to buy a decant of something fabulous you love but can't afford to pay the three-figure price of a full bottle, you could head to eBay and buy it from several excellent and reputable sellers. Then eBay decided they'd rather profit from the huge volume of sales made by perfume counterfeits and other crooks, while at the same time they shut down the decanting business. This has lead four of the most successful and knowledgeable eBay sellers to unite and open a store together: The Perfumed Court. The selections and possibilities are beyond anything I would have imagined and the service is close to perfects. The price for samples is higher than what you'd pay for the same things elsewhere, so stick to the really rare stuff (JAR and non-export Lutens, to name a few, as well as vintage and discontinued scents), and they have no competition when it comes to decants in several sizes.

11) Boots No. 7 at Target- Drugstore cosmetics will never be the same. The products of British company Boots, from their No. 7 and Botanics lines, were first introduced to the American market by Target, now also available at CVS. There are many hyped products in these lines, some so popular they made Matt Lauer go investigate them. My personal favorites are the excellent self tanner (no stink, no George Hamilton) and the makeup removal wipes, that are not only extremely effective, but also soft, thick and luxurious.

12) Laboratoire Remède Super C Serum- This year I greatly simplified my skin care routine, with two principles in mind: a product must make my skin feel great and it has to show clear results. My goal was to even out and brighten my skin tone. I saw the first results within weeks, and continue to be impressed of the serum's performance. I didn't let the faulty packaging of my first bottle keep me from repurchasing, and don't see myself switching products any time soon.

13) Laboratoire Remède Double Oxygenating Booster- This isn't a new discovery. As a matter of fact, this is the third year I've been using this cream. However, until recent months I've only applied it topically about one week a month to get rid of an existing blemish or to prevent one from actually forming. It's the most effective zit zapper I've come across. It made a huge difference for me, as together with the Super C serum it helped get rid of past sins. After reading that the cream may be used all over the face, I started doing it about once a week. The results were immediate: Smoother skin, less visible pores. No irritation and no dryness.

14) Men fragrance: Serge Lutens Vetiver Oriental- A 2002 release that became available in the US this year in the regular export bottle and won my husband completely. I adore this scent just as much, and suspect that a backup bottle might be a good idea at this usage rate. Vetiver Oriental is an unusual sweet and rounded vetiver, deepened by a chocolate note. Sounds horrible, but in reality the rooty, earthy vetiver mates well with the chocolate for an exotic but surprisingly comforting aroma. A labdanum and mossy green drydown makes it irresistible to my nose, and apparently to my husband's who made the choice in this category.

15) Biotherm Homme Ultra Confort -My husband's holy grail skin care product was a recent discovery. It does everything: comforts, replenishes and moisturizes. His experience (and mine) is documented here.

Please visit the other participating bloggers and see what they loved this year:

15 Minute Beauty Fanatic

Afrobella

All About The Pretty

All Lacquered Up

Beauty 411

Beauty Blogging Junkie

Beauty Talk

Beautiful Makeup Search

Beauty Hatchery

Beauty Jones

Blogdorf Goodman

Canadian Beauty

C'est Chic

Coquette

eBeautyDaily

For The Love of Beauty

Give Me Your Eyes I Need Sunshine

Getting Amped

Grayburn

HauteMommaStuff

Koneko's Beauty Diary

Makeup Bag

The Makeup Girl

Miss Whoever You Are

My Life,My Words,My Mind

Perfumista

Periodic Style

Platinum Blonde Life

Product Girl

Shop Diary

Slap of the Day

Steeping Beauty

The Beauty Alchemist

The Daily Obsession

The Life Of A Ladybug

Urbane Girl

Victoria's Own

We Love Beauty

Also worth reading, a few perfume bloggers have done their own "Best of 2007" project, and it's worth reading:
::Aromascope :: Bois de Jasmin :: Now Smell This :: Perfume Posse :: PerfumeSmellin’ Things ::Scentzilla ::
As did GreenEyes of Sweet Diva and Helg of Perfume Shrine.

Journey in a Bottle: Hyacinth and a Mechanic by Tauer Perfumes

The bottle that arrived at my door a few weeks ago had no label or logo. But the inscription on the plain white box was written and signed by a familiar hand. This bottle is one of a kind, for now. Andy Tauer has created a perfume, bottled it and sent it on a journey. You can read more about it here. This fragrance, unofficially named Hyacinth and a Mechanic, isn't in production, but I hope that one day it will be.

It's not just the handwriting on the box that was recognizable. From the first sniff, just from smelling the cap, it was unmistakeably a Tauer perfume. No need to wait for the dry-down and the "Tauerade", there's something in the blend, a signature ingredient perhaps, that instantly makes it feel personal.

Because that's the thing: Andy's scents carry you away. Some of these journeys are to remote destinations. Others are to places you've been to, places within yourself.

The green opening is strong and almost overwhelming. Especially if you give it a big spray. I've played with it a little, and discovered that it's easier to wear if you start by dabbing just a little, and get acquainted with this very unusual scent. As I said, it's green. And lush. And floral, but not in a girly, ornate way. If hyacinth and lily of the valley make you think Laura Ashley, you'll have to reconsider. These flowers are wild, untamed, hiding in shady corners of a secret, half forgotten garden.

When I was about six years old we lived in a house with such a yard. The grass grew high, hiding small creatures like turtles. My parents' bedroom was on ground level, and on spring days I'd climb out and land in the soft, green, fragrant grass, eager to play, pick flowers and follow the kittens. The house was just above a ravine that went all the way down the mountain to the beach, full of fragrant plants and shrubs, including white and dark pink cistus (labdanum is made of cistus resin).

The green and floral notes in this perfume take me back there. But there's a lot more to the Mechanic than these notes. It also feels raw, almost jagged and unfinished. The oily part comes and goes, not always emerging from behind the stems that keep growing and growing.

The scent lasts forever and at times feels like it's getting stronger instead of calming down. It's very potent and full of personality. Spray too much and you'll get looks from people around you, wondering if you've just rolled down a grassy hill straight into a flower bed, crushing everything along your way. But if applied just so you get the prize: A dry-down that is reminiscent of the magnificent L'air du Désert Marocain, but where L'Air is dry and ambery, this one is infused with dew and plant nectar.

(images found randomly online and mercilessly mangled by me)

Beauty and the Heat

The temperatures here are touching the triple digit zone, and it isn't pretty. Even the best intentions and beauty routines melt when confronted with a scorching and muggy reality and we need all the help we can get. Here are a few of things that help me survive days like these:

• A little color that goes a long way: I use a dab of concealer only where (and if) needed, line my eyes with a thick pencil in a rich color that does double duty as a shadow (my favorite has always been Sue Devitt Eye Intensifier in Gold Reef, but all the other colors are just as lovely. Look at the khaki one, Bangalore), black waterproof mascara (I only use them for a few days this time of the year, and the drugstores are full of good ones. I usually buy Max Factor), and finish up the look with a dark colored lip gloss (I love Chanel Glossimer in Force). Only three or four products, but it looks well put-together.

• It's the only time of the year I'm going places with my hair pulled back into a tight bun. Jonathan's Silky Dirt is keeping it shiny and in place. I'll need to write a full review soon (and probably try other products from this line).

• My flat feet can be the bane of my existence, if I let them. They get swollen in the heat which makes wearing shoes a painful ordeal. I keep my regular shoes or sandals in my beg and put them on before getting anywhere, but until that moment, I live in J. Crew's wedge flip-flops. They're much more comfortable for me than regular flat flip-flops, because they provide support and insulation from the ground, two things that the flat-footed among us know to appreciate.

• Perfume. I like to wear something that takes me away to kinder places. Reverie au Jardin from Tauer Perfume is my choice of escape. It takes me to cool, green gardens. This fragrance comes from Switzerland, which helps with the Alpine fantasy.

Lonestar Revisited

One of the first steps in becoming a perfumista is learning that the mainstream categories of feminine and masculine fragrances are nothing but a marketing ploy that was created so men would feel more at ease buying (and wearing) scented products. You learn that the rule is simple: "Wear what you love and ignore the label", and it applies to both men and women. Still, just like I have yet to meet the man who'd want to wear Fracas, there are a couple of ultra masculine fragrances that tend to scare the ladies away. Yatagan by Caron is one of those, waving its sword and stinking up a perfect storm. Lonestar Memories from Tauer Perfumes is another, with its cowboy, prairie and campfire imagery.

The Blond has been wearing Lonestar for months now, to my great delight (his review is here). And here's my dirty little secret: I wear it, too. And on hot summer days, no less.

It's all about skin chemistry. On him, the smoky and leathery notes are dominant, with the Lapsang Suchon aroma that lingers throughout its wear and very masculine air. On me, the smoke is faint and vanishes within minutes, taking with it the old, distressed leather saddle. What's left is very surprising: A collection of dry and clean incense notes, from mildly floral to seductive but gentle woods, something resinous (must be the cistus) and an unexpected minty aroma.

The other unconventional aspect is the fact that all of the perfumes from Andy Tauer's line, save for the beautiful and airy Reverie, are considered to be cold weather fragrances. Leather, incense, smoke and dry woods aren't exactly what you'd expect to find in a summery scent. However, I find the clean and dry notes to be very wearable on a hot day. So much so, that I actually crave it. It's oddly satisfying and refreshing, though I'd probably not take my chances with it when it's not only hot but also humid and hazy. Even I have to draw the line somewhere.

Reveries- Tauer Perfumes Reverie au Jardin

There are several variations on the theme of summer fragrance. The one that seems to be very popular lately as seen in the Estee Lauder/Tom Ford bastard child, Azuree, and in Bond's Fire Island is all about memories of sand in your bikini and SPF-less suntan lotion. It has its charm, but it's just not for me. I also stay (far) away from most scents that boast aquatic notes, as they usually remind me really cheap mall scents (or maybe it's just my Jersey imagination).

My summer love is for dark, shady greens baked in the afternoon sun, maybe with a hint of dust, earth and more than a little South European charm, as seen with both Annick Goutal's Eau d'Hadrien and the far less popular L'Eau Trois by Dipyque.

Andy Tauer's Reverie au Jardin is a gorgeous addition to the second group. It's not really Mediterranean, and the greens are less wild. Instead, the afternoon sun has warmed and enveloped a well-tended flower and herb garden. It's rich and beautiful, has the most haunting lavender note I've smelled since Gris Clair, and manages to transport you to that place and frame of mind that was Andy Tauer's original intent.

I was among the lucky ones who got to meet Andy last Saturday on his visit to NYC. There's nothing quite like listening to a great artist describing his passion, inspiration and deconstructing his work into its components, especially when said artist is very charming and funny. Andy brought with him ten samples of some of the pure notes that make Reverie. It was fascinating to sniff each one of them and examine how they all blend in the final composition. His French lavender was unlike any I've come across. I grow several types of this flower in my back yard, but a Jersey-grown French lavender smells different than the original thing.

(Insert your favorite Jersey joke here)

The lavender isn't limited to the top notes. It's there all the way through the drydown (just like in Gris Clair), where it plays well with the oakmoss, vetiver and tonka beans. I know some people who object to lavender perfumes because they remind them of their spinster Aunt Tilly. But this perfume is far removed from girdles and mothballs. It's a very unisex scent. The Blond wears it just as happily, and it has a whole new twist on his skin. He promises to write his own review soon.

On my skin it's not manly at all, and the frankincense-rose combo gives it the pretty angle. While the fragrance belongs in the clean/green category, there's much more to it. There's depth and magic there, and that special something that I find in all the other Tauers.

The sillage isn't too aggressive, which makes it very suitable for a summer day. It won't linger in the elevator long after the wearer has left. The drydown stays close to the skin for a few hours, even more when I use it apply jojoba oil first.

Reverie au Jardin, as well as the other Tauer Perfume creations can only be found at LuiLei in Brooklyn (worth the visit for the great selection of niche fragrance and skin care, as well as for the friendly service) and Scent Bar in LA. The latter is hosting the West Coast launch party of Reverie this week, where Andy will be giving his presentation. Those who cannot get to either store in person, can still order samples online.

Love- Tauer Perfumes

A cross-blog discussion that has been going lately concluded that some perfumes are beautiful, but very few are really evocative. I'd add that some perfume reviews can be more evocative than the fragrance itself. An olfactory experience that actually takes you on a journey is a very rare experience in recent days. Which might be for the best. Do we really want to be taken anywhere by Britney Spears or Victoria Beckham?

Mentioning Posh Spice in a post discussing Andy Tauer's work is sacrilegious. So, let's put another line break between her and these perfumes.

L'Air du Desert Marocain
If I were into the whole signature scent thing, this would most likely be my choice. It's not about the notes, really (which are all lovely: Coriander, Petitgrain (Bitter orange), Lemon, Bergamot, Jasmin, Cistus, Bourbon, Geranium, Cedarwood, Vetiver, Vanille, Patchouli and Ambergris, according to Luckyscent. Tauer Perfume website also mentions cumin and rock rose). It's about that special thing that happens when I put it on.

I've never been to Morocco, but the journey I'm taken on is a trip into myself. It feels like Andy Tauer knows me. He knows my secrets, the hidden corners of my conscience, my earliest memories, little quirks, hopes and wishes. He created a fragrance that fits into the aforementioned little corners, that envelopes me in half forgotten bits and pieces of myself. It's dry and spicy, and has warmth like no other scent that I know. But I don't think that I'd have a problem wearing it even in the middle of summer, unless it's one of those humid NYC days, when nothing but Eau d' Hadrien would do, if I am to stay alive. Any other time, I suspect that L'Air's dry heat would complement the weather as perfectly as it does now, when it's bitter cold outside and a bit over-heated anywhere else.

This scent is so masterfully blended that while you can engage in a fun Find the Note game and ponder the complex layers and whatever spice and wood that emerge at any given moment, it's not about that. It's the picture painted, the overall experience that you get during the very long lasting wear of this wonderful fragrance. It's an EdT Intense, but it stays on more than many EdPs I know. It's categorized as a unisex scent. On my skin it's feminine and sexy, but considering the notes, most men can wear it happily. The Blond has yet to try it. He's far too happy right now with Lonestar Memories.


Le Maroc Pour Elle
I have no idea if the real Morocco smells like deep, dark roses and rich woods. I suspect that as a Middle Eastern country that is mostly desert, reality might vary a little from this Arabian Nights extravaganza. But, I don't care. In the real world, I'm a big city girl, with a preference for a metropolis that sits on the coast. But this isn't about the actual geographic place. It's more about that legendary Morocco of your heart and imagination.

Unlike L'Air, the notes here are far more obvious, and it's a predominately a rose scent. The rose is touched with lavender, as is felt in the clean, almost sharp opening. As it soften and expands on the skin (you can almost feel the way it opens up to reveal more and more of its beauty), the woods come forward, while maintaining the beautiful sweetness of the rose.

A word regarding the rose: It's not your grandmother's rose, and not an innocent, virginal one either. There's depth, darkness and mystery here. There's sweetness, but very far from a Turkish Delight comfort smell. I'd put it in a similar group with Regina Harris' perfume oil, though it's quite different in the way the notes manifest themselves.

Lasting power: excellent. It's there from early evening till the morning after.


Orris
I'm the happy owner of one of the 200 limited edition (now sold out) bottles. It's exciting to know that I have something so rare and special. Not to mention beautiful. It might not be my favorite of the three right this moment, as this place is now taken by L'Air, but I have a feeling that come summer, Orris will be used far more often.

My nose and my skin see it as lighter and greener than the other scents. The opening to me is almost herbal, like the plants in my garden early in the season. The rose here is lighter and airy, less femme. It turns leathery soon after and the incense rounds it up nicely. More than the others, Orris seems to be changing with the time of day and outside temperature. It's good now, and I'm hoping for great fabulousness later.

It wears just as nicely on my husband, though he wasn't too sure how masculine it is. I guess it depends how much of the rose emerges on a given day. This is temperamental scent, for sure.

City Slickers- Tauer Lonestar Memories

I have a guest reviewer today. The Blond, who has been wearing Andy Tauer's Lonestar Memories lately, has a thing or two to say about this fragrance:

I’d like to thank my amazing non-blonde wife for introducing me over the last year to the fascinating world of niche perfume. I’ll try to contribute here and there my own reviews of the masculine scents I loved enough to buy.
The most recent example being Andy Tauer’s Lonestar Memories.

As Mr. Tauer describes it: “'It’s the scent of a lonesome rider, wearing old jeans and leather jacket, after a long day on the horse in the dry woods, preparing his coffee on the open, smoky fire. I want it to be fresh and light, yet lasting and powerful....”

How romantic! Now, I’ve done my share of camping, hiking and open fire cooking in my days but as I recall, the common reaction of my better half upon my long awaited return home, was always the same :” You stink. Better have a good shower before coming anywhere near me”.

Fortunately, Lonestar Memories delivers a very sophisticated interpretation that combines some of these wilderness attributes with very domestic luxury.

When I put it on, I see myself in front of a burning fireplace, hot cup of Lapsang Souchong tea giving off a rich smoky scent, a whiff of herbs and spices coming off something good that’s cooking on the stove, a vase with wild flowers giving off a sweet earthy smell and of course, a cat in my lap (for the purr, not for the smell).

It’s a unique scent that’s strong but not overpowering. Long staying power with a drydown that is very woody, herbal and surprisingly sweet. I love it.

To me, it's an experience that is as far from Mr. Tauer’s rough and rugged vision as the Non Blonde’s SUV is from seeing off-road adventures.

Urban cowboys and city slickers everywhere, rejoice!


My own reviews of the other three Tauer scents are coming soon.