Friday, April 9, 2010

Caron Infini




There's something about classic Caron perfumes that says prim and proper. I'm not sure if the image was cultivated by the house, because looking at vintage print ads I don't see a significant difference from Chanel or Guerlain. Some of Caron perfumes, such as Tabac Blond, En Avion and others, were/are quite more interesting than the cardigan and pearls that are usually associated with the brand. Not that there's anything wrong with that...

I can see why the 1970s incarnation of Infini (originally a 1912 creation, but completely re-orchestrated in 1970) might have something to do with this image. It's a green aldehydic floral with a very dry heart- maybe a powdery iris. The floral notes smell very French and classic- thoroughly blended, seamless and almost abstract, except for the sharp hyacinth/daffodil that you can smell in the opening. Infini is crisp and tailored, but still retains just enough softness to make wearing it very comfortable- I might suggest you give it a try if you're seeking an easy(ier?)  introduction to the genre.

Something interesting happens to Infini in the drydown. It has an obvious vetiver note, which is nothing new (think Caleche in more recent formulations), but the vetiver is almost leathery and has an edge you don't expect to find under the demure flowers. I have no proof, but this might be a big part of the 1970 update. It make sense when you think about the decade of green chypres and pantsuits.

My bottle is a somewhat older parfum de toilette, probably from the late 80/early 90s. It's still available online, as is the extrait de parfum. I smelled a current(ish) eau de toilette and it still seems like the real thing, only lighter, which is to be expected.

Caron Infini ad from 1970- okadi.com
Fashion photo- a James Galanos dress, Vogue, spring 1970

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