Aftelier- Candide

Candide by natural perfumer Mandy Aftel of Aftelier Perfumes is sweet, romantic, flirtatious and a bit risqué. Candied citrus and indolic flowers might not be a classic December perfumes, but it's fun and uplifting, so why not? Besides, I have a feeling that wearing Candide in the height of summer might be a bit too much, at least on days I'm actually planning on leaving the house and being around people. The way jasmine blooms in the heat might send the wrong message.

Candide opens up with a joyous and giggling citrus- it's bubbly, sweet and tinged with an impression of red fruits, though it doesn't even resemble the horrid department store berry note you find everywhere. It's easy-going and youthful without being juvenile. Soon after, jasmine comes into play and remains there for several hours. I get very little of the promised dry-down: if there are any frankincense, oppoponax and myrrh they've been swallowed whole by the jasmine. It might be a matter of skin chemistry, though. I've been known to be eaten alive by jasmine notes, only in this case I don't really mind. It's that much fun.

The jasmine in Mandy Aftel's Candide is round and full- it has curves and is not afraid to use them. It's definitely indolic to my nose (and to the husband's. So much, actually that he can't tolerate this perfume around him) and has all the dirty intentions in the world, but still maintains a certain sense of humor about it. However, Robin of NST didn't find the indoles all that prominent, so your impression may vary.

Candide by Aftelier ($150, 30ml EDP or 7.5oz extrait de parfum) can be purchased directly from aftelier.com . Samples and minis are also available. The sample for this review was supplied by the perfumer.

Please note that there's a 10% discount going on until December 13th with the code "holiday". As always, I'm in no way affiliated and have no commercial interest.

Outlaw Perfume Project- Final Thoughts

First- It's about time I announce the winner of Notoriety by A Wing And A Prayer:

Conratulations to Hotlanta Linda! Please email me so we can make arrangements.

Now, for my thoughts.
More than a revolution or a rebellion, I see the Outlaw Perfume Project as something along the lines of the Rally To Restore Sanity. The IFRA issue has been discussed to death and still makes absolutely no sense. Everything else in the universe, from food to household detergents, has labels that warn those with allergies of possible irritants. Thus, allowing us to make informed decisions and purchases, avoid peanuts or shellfish if they have the potential to kill us and stay away from things that may cause a reaction. So why not apply the same logic to perfume?

For the record, neither the Outlaw Perfumes nor any vintage formulation that contains hazardous materials such as citrus oil, rose absolute, jasmine absolute, oakmoss and others has ever caused me an allergic reaction. I do get itchy rashes from items like many household cleaners, Dove soap, Herbal Essence shampoo, several hair styling products and probably other things I can't recall right now. But never from perfume.

Yes, I know the answer is complex and has a lot to do with business decisions some of the big houses have lived to regret. Yes, most prominent perfumers work for the Big Boys, and at first refused to talk, especially on the record. But we're at the point their artistic freedom has been so limited, someone (I wish I saved the source and exact quote) said the restrictions are the equivalent of a painter being forbidden from using the color blue. Once again, what happened to sanity and common sense?

Apparently, with independent perfumers. The Natural Perfumer Guild spearheaded the Outlaw campaign and proved that real perfume is still alive and well. Other perfumer outside of the Guild, both natural/botanical artists and those who rely on the entire spectrum of materials, have been doing their thing with vision and integrity for years now and ignoring IFRA. Of course, this (and other factors) means their ability to sell and market their work might be limited, and this is where we, as perfume lovers, come into play.

As much as it's tempting to stock up and hoard vintage perfumes on all their rose and oakmoss goodness, the prices of those has been steadily climbing, sometimes to insane levels. Personally, I refuse to pay three figure prices for bottles that used to be readily available and never considered high-end or luxurious. Frankly, it also goes to former department store perfumes that all of a sudden have become a rarity. Instead, I'd rather pay real perfume artists for their often handmade creations. Those among them who use the best raw ingredients give us some of the most unique products on the market. This is true luxury and I have every intention to keep supporting them.

How about you?

Photo: Jane Russel posing for the movie poster of Outlaw, 1943, from firstordergoods.wordpress.com

Outlaw Perfumes- Light and Amberess by Anya's Garden

The last installment of the Outlaw Perfume Project (well, second to last, since I hope to write some kind of conclusion over the weekend) brings to us two outlaw creations by Anya McCoy of Anya's Garden. They represent two kind-of-sort-of opposite sides of the perfume spectrum- a citrusy cologne and an ambery floriental. Both genres are popular outside of the natural and niche perfume circle and it's a fascinating sensual experience to be able to smell and wear them in their true and raw form. And if you're even a little familiar with Ms. McCoy's work, you know it's never wishy-washy.

Light starts with a burst of a 3D citrus- full of fruit, juice and rind. It's so yellow and kelly green you can see the light and taste it on your tongue. The first couple of minutes seem like a sister fragrance to the beautiful Kaffir, but just when I thought I got it all figured out, the floral heart came alive. Rich, buttery and yellow- for a second there it reminded me of tuberose but not quite. A look at the cheat sheet revealed the floral heart is Aglaia, aka Chinese Rice Flower, which is apparently related to mahogany and smells divine. While many typical colognes combine citrus with their relative neroli (steam distilled orange blossoms) and often some kind of anemic blanched wood, the perfumer has chosen a resinous base of frankincense. It is surprisingly mild but does an amazing job anchoring the other notes and making them last for long hours. Next time I hear how citrus notes are always very fleeting so one shouldn't expect any lasting power, I'm sending whoever says that to have a chat with Anya.

Amberess is a true outlaw. Where Light only has the citrus and aglaia as its restricted ingredients, this diva is obviously trying to make the IFRA bureaucrats cry. This is copied straight from Anya's blog:

Top notes: none, in the true Oriental style
Middle notes: Zambian  Princesse de Nassau Rosa Moschata African musk rose otto and Musk rose absolute, Madagascan ylang ylang, South African rose geranium sur fleurs
Base notes: Indonesian patchouli, Himalayan amber oil, Turkish styrax, Greek labdanum, Peruvian tonka bean, Salvadorean balsam tolu, Balsam of Peru, Chinese benzoin, Madagascan vanilla

*red denotes untested or prohibited/limited aromatic

To me, Amberess is a creamy and feminine rose over a sweet amber base. It has an almost Turkish delight quality (for a second I can almost smell coconut, though it's obviously not there, just the nutty fullness). Amberess never goes sour on my skin, not even for a second. There's nothing green there, nothing fresh, just pure sensuality. This princess lounges in her velvet-lined boudoir, wearing layers of silk chiffon and indulging in  candy and men as she sees fit. I'll take a job as a lady-in-waiting for her. Or a full bottle.

Amberess ($125, 15ml EDP) and Light ($100, 15ml) are available online at anyasgarden.com. There's also a parfum extrait version and a sampling program. The samples for this review were supplied by the perfumer.

Art: Abstraction of the Bird Of Paradise by Marcia Baldwin.

Outlaw Perfume- Amazing by JoAnne Bassett

Who said chypres must be dark and brooding? Or that they have to be mysterious and film noir-ish? Chypres can also be sunny, fun and friendly, as natural perfumer and fragrance therapist JoAnne Bassett shows in her outlaw perfume, Amazing.

Amazing wasn't inspired by a tragic notorious outlaw woman but by the ingredients themselves- hence by nature and what it has to offer. And in the case of a natural perfume that doesn't bend to senseless restrictions, this is a lot. JoAnne Bassett took oakmoss, one of the most distinct and beloved notes in perfumery and blended in just about any essential oil and absolute that would play nicely with it, including 32 "outlawed" ones. The result is a playful and uplifting perfumes. The surprisingly complex citrus opening feels round and satisfying- this is not one of those fake cheap scents that use something grapefruity to claim freshness. Instead, Amazing is sunny and aromatic- it feels like a summer morning.

The citrus never disappears completely like one would expect from a lesser composition. It's still there when the heart turns floral with gentle jasmine and various roses and it's also around for the beautiful green dry-down. From bitter galbanum to velvety oakmoss- it smells natural yet very fragrant and distinct. I remember Ô de Lancome in its heyday, and even then this citrus-oakmoss blend was too harsh and lacked elegance (my mother used it as a household cleaning solution as she wouldn't have it on her body). Amazing is all the things Ô should have been but never was. It's funny now to note that I was a little worried that Amazing might be a little too hippie and more of an essential oil blend that a perfume, but this is absolutely not the case. JoAnne Bassett has created a worthy member for the Outlaw family, showing us why real oakmoss should never disappear from a perfumers palette.

This review is based on a sample sent by the perfumer (joannebassett.com).

Image from Charm Magazine, March 1959- myvintagevogue.com

Outlaw Perfume- Belle Starr by Artemisia Perfumes

"Shed not for her the bitter tear
Nor give the heart to vain regret
'Tis but the casket that lies here
The gem that filled it sparkles yet"

Carved into the headstone of Belle Starr

The true story of Belle Starr, the Bandit Queen, has been mostly lost to time and creative interpretations. Relationships with every wrong man she has ever met, violence and a tragic end (Belle Starr was rumored to have been murdered by her own son)- not the stuff of which perfume legends are usually made. But we're talking Outlaw Perfumes here, so just like the other muses for this project, a strong and fearless woman who took lovers, toted guns and ran a crime organization (maybe) is strangely appropriate.

The story of Belle Starr by natural perfumer Lisa Fong of Artemisia Perfumes is centered around jasmine. Jasmine, as we all know, can stink to high heavens if it's too indolic, or go the other way and turn into a bathroom product if it's too synthetic and cleaned up. The success of this Artemisia creation is in the way Belle Starr retains the fleshy dirty aspects but turns them into a smooth honeyed liquid that melds into the wearer's skin the way only a herbal perfume can do.

When I first tested Belle Starr without looking at the notes I could have sworn it was all about honey- a more floral relative of Miel de Bois with a dirty earthy side. Sniffing my neck a few hours later, the husband also said "honey", though he found it a little too sweet for his taste. It's interesting how the complex and mulit-layered jasmine note goes in and out, mixes with the mushroomy earth, dances with flowers and wood and smells new and unexpected because of the thick roobios absolute used to ground it.

 I wish the longevity was better than the 6 hours I'm getting, then again it doesn't exactly go away. It leaves a trace on the body that is not really a perfume, just an elevated level of skin scent. That's a quality I often find in natural perfumes and makes me appreciate them even more.

Belle Starr is not your typical jasmine. It's not your typical anything, really, and it's not trying to be. It doesn't try too hard to be easy or pretty, but it's still very wearable and sensual- as long as one can take the heat.

This review of  Belle Starr EDP from Artemisia Perfumes is based on a sample that was sent by the perfumer.

Art: a mixed media collage of a Belle Starr scrapbook by Tristan Robin Blakeman (tristanrobinblakeman.com)

Outlaw Perfume- Mata Hari by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

**For more about the Outlaw Perfume Project, please read this**

When you search the Life.com website for Mata Hari photos you will find them with the tagline "Dancer, Stripper, Spy". Historical evidence shows she wasn't much of a spy, at least not a real double agent, but Mata Hari still paid with her life. Her notoriety had probably had something to do with that. She was a legend in her life and became an even bigger one when Greta Garbo put on the exotic headdress and took on the famous role.

This was the inspiration for the Outlaw Perfume Mata Hari by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz. The perfume does justice not only to the complex and mysterious women- both the spy and the actress who immortalized her, but also to the time period (the turn of the 20th century) and to the genre. Mata Hari is a fruity animalic chypre, and it doesn't get any better than that. Like many of us, I'm somewhat familiar with vintage classics. I own a few, but most of my bottles are from the early days. I have often wondered what the very first bottles of Mitsouko (1919) and other perfumes from that time were like. It seems like Dawn Spencer Hurwitz has given us a very good idea.

There's a lengthy list of notes on DSH website and on her blog, but deconstructing Mata Hari wouldn't be doing it justice, because this perfume is all skin, emotion and sensuality. There's a bitter bergamot opening, an exotic full heart of spice and pulpy fruit and a dry-down that is all leather, oakmoss and a gorgeous musk. The fact this is 100% botanical perfume is a(nother) wonderful testimony to the perfumer's talent and skill. It also proves a certain point regarding natural perfumery. The sillage is modest but the staying power quite phenomenal. I can still smell it on my skin 10-12 hours after application, and believe me- I've been using it sparingly.

The bottom line is that Mata Hari is a rich, dark and sensual perfume. When you wear it, the last thing on your mind is eco-whatever and the crunchy granola image of natural products. This is a real perfume, evocative and sexy. It lingers on skin, warms up and envelopes you discreetly (trust me- you wouldn't want Mata Hari to announce your and her presence to the entire boardroom or teacher lounge), draws in the few deserving ones and leaves a delicious leather and peach aroma on your sweater and (his) pillow. It's eye-rolling/toe curling good. Between this lively creature and DSH's other recent brilliant creation, Cuir et Champignon (review coming very soon), I'm in very deep trouble.

Mata Hari is a (very) limited edition (which makes me want to cry). You can read more about Dawn's inspiration for the perfume and the creative process on her blog.  A 5ml flask bottle is $85 while the beautiful antique bottle presentation (15 ml) will set you back $225 (dshperfumes.com). A sample for this review was provided by the perfumer.

**DSH is having a holiday sale at the moment- 20% off with code holiday10 (until December 13th).  **

Photo of Mata Hari in 1904: life.com

Outlaw Perfume- Notoriety by A Wing And A Prayer Perfumes- Giveaway

Jane Cate, the nose behind A Wing And A Prayer Perfumes, is responsible to one of my most favorites Mystery Of Musk perfumes, Tallulah B2. It's no wonder her newest creation for the Outlaw Perfume Project, Notoriety, is a standout. A stunning full bodied floral chypre, perhaps the most amazing thing about Notoriety is not how good it is, but the fact that every last essential oil and absolute used in its creation is now on IFRA's  restricted and prohibited list. This beauty, along with so many others, is what we're about to lose if nothing is done to stop the madness. What are these dangerous and notorious natural raw materials? Bergamot, rosewood, rose, wild rose, lavender, violet leaf, carnation, geranium, oakmoss and amber. Seriously.

Jane's muses for the perfume were three free-spirit women from days gone by who achieved notoriety. Etta Place, Isadora Duncan and Lillie Langtry. It is the latter who captures my imagination and connects me to this perfume. There's something about the distinct Victorian scandalous story and the royal romance. And Lillie  Langtry's friendship with Oscar Wilde. Who wouldn't want him as a BFF and mentor?

Rose, violet, carnation and lavender could  often be found at 19th century perfumed products. They can all be distinctly smelled in Notoriety, feeling feminine and a touch powdery. But the main story here is the rose on its many complex facets. It is very far from the various modern and synthetic interpretations of rose perfumes (sharing this quality with another Outlaw Perfume, Rose Of Cimarron)  and far more interesting. At first I thought about Notoriety as a warm and cozy rose, but venturing outside on a cold(ish) day had awakened the oakmoss and the unique smoky amber (I'm assuming ambrette seed) and exposed the full range of the perfume. It is, indeed, a chypre, tinged with something green (probably from the lavender), velvety and deep.

Now for the giveaway- a 1.7oz bottle of Notoriety EDP by A Wing And A Prayer Perfumes (wingandprayerperfume.com). One lucky winner will be chosen among those who comment on this post to answer this question:

What perfume ruined or discontinued due to IFRA regulation do you miss the most?

Photo of Lillie Langtry on stage as Cleopatra, 1891, from vintageephemera.blogspot.com

Outlaw Perfume- Rose Of Cimarron by Bellyflowers

*If you're new to the Outlaw Perfume Project, please read this first*

Long before Bonnie Parker fell in love with Clyde Barrow and joined his outlaw life, there was Rose Dunn in the Wild West. Fifteen year old Rose met professional outlaw George "Bittercreek" Newcomb and fell in love. Rose already knew how to ride, rope and shoot, but was more famous around those parts for her beauty and gentleness and was nicknamed "Rose of Cimarron". Her lover and his gang were busy robbing banks and stagecoaches and Rose got them supplies and tended their frequent gun wounds. Rose of Cimarron fared much better than Bonnie. Two years late, her older brothers had enough of their own outlawish ways, became bounty hunters and turned George & co. in when they stopped by to visit Rose. Lawmen killed the gang and Rose was an honest woman again and lived to old age as a politician's wife.

Perfumer Elise Pearlstine of Bellyflowers Perfumes created Rose of Cimarron as an homage to the woman who put her love before danger. The perfume starts sharp, peppery and a little menacing before the heart unfolds and it's all rose and jasmine, a little green and crisp but also as round and floral as they come. Wearing Rose of Cimarron for a couple of days made me realize that I've nearly forgotten what a true rose and jasmine perfume smells like. We've become too used to those synthetic department store variations, either a laundered rose in a dryer sheet musk or sticky rose over a too sweet plastic amber. The real thing is raw and foreign at first, before smells and mementos from long gone days start flooding one's memories. A precious vial of rose oil hidden in a drawer, sachets of rose petals, crisp white sheets with handmade embroidery and lace laundered and starched in the closet.

Isn't it astonishing that these very ingredients- rose absolute, jasmine absolute and ylang-ylang, materials that once perfumed just about everything, are now heavily restricted and regulated by IFRA, to the point that a scent such as this is an "outlaw"?

Rose of Cimarron's full and complex base (labdanum, patchouli, angelica root, ambrette seed, blond tobacco and amyris) is spicy and has a chypre air. I was actually surprised not to see oakmoss listed as a note because it seems like it's there, especially with the hint of soapiness I get here and there. In any case, once the abundance of pepper dries down, this Bellyflower creation becomes almost familiar and quite  easy to wear. Longevity is excellent and there's quite a lot of sillage for the first three or four hours.

Rose Of Cimarron by Bellyflowers ($40, 10ml) is available from the perfumer's website, tambela.com.

Photos of Rose Dunn from legendsofamerica.com

Outlaw Perfume: Daphne by Lord's Jester

*If you're new to the Outlaw Perfume Project, please read this first*

The first time I've smelled Daphne, the Outlaw creation of natural perfumer Adam Gottschalk of Lord's Jester, the lights dimmed and the room darkened. The intensity of this scent stunned me and for a brief second I wasn't sure if it was a good thing or not. But it is good. Most definitely.

Daphne, the perfume, was inspired by the story of Apollo and the nymph Daphne, but the first image my mind conjured was an old illustration  for Brothers Grimm fairy tales. Here was the Black Forest of centuries ago, looming and menacing, full of unspeakable evil and nameless creatures. Winnie the Pooh doesn't live here, for sure.

But this fairy tale by Lord's Jester has a happy ending. As the scent develops on skin it softens, opens up and sweetens considerably. The heavy branches move let some light in and you can see the velvet mossy forest floor under your feet. Soon enough Prince Charming will see the walls of the castle's gardens and smell the roses that grew wild and entangled for 100 years. And there inside there is a beautiful princess waiting, asleep, in all her sweetness. Daphne becomes honeyed and smooth, a rich oriental chypre that is a joy to wear.

Daphne by Lord's Jester Perfumes ($65, 10ml EDT) is available from lordjesters.com. The sample for this review was provided by the perfumer.

Art: Illustration for The Sleeping Beauty by Gustave Dore, 1867

Outlaw Perfume: Gypsy by Providence Perfume Co.

I remember now.

Perfume is an art. It creates pictures. It tells stories and stirs memories and emotions. Or, at least, it should.

Big corporations, focus groups, politics, marketing and mass marketing and most of all IFRA regulations have almost  taken it away from us and made us forget what it feels like to wear real perfume. But now, wearing Gypsy by perfumer Charna Ethier, I remember. And I don't want to let go.

Technically speaking, Gypsy is a dark amber with a touch of green fougere. If I were an abstract painter trying to capture Gypsy I'd paint my canvas black-based brown, maroon and brick red, let the colors bleed into each other and then incorporate some forest green veins. But Gypsy is only abstract if I let it be. It's a warm, breathing thing, human and personal and makes me think of the way other countries seemed to me as a child.

I go back to times before I had a clear map of the world in my head and was only discovering the wonder of foreign languages- people speaking in magical tones. My parents had guests from different corners of the world- long lost relatives and old friends coming from as far as South Africa and East Europe. They stayed up  late, drank mysterious and strong smelling liqueurs that had beautiful labels on their dark  bottles, wore strong perfumes and brought gifts that smelled of mystery.

Gypsy has all that and more. I consider it wearable by both men and women, though my husband's chemistry brings out something a little too sharp, while on me it's as soft and luxurious as I could have ever hoped. According to Charna Ethier "Most of the botanicals used in comprising Gypsy Eau de Parfum are posted on IFRA's list of banned/restricted ingredients".  The main notes are-

Top: galangal, lavender, lemon, petitgrain, and cardamom.
Heart: pink lotus absolute, Bulgarian lavender and green violet leaf.
Base: tonka, oakmoss, vetiver, patchouli, costus, and vanilla

But it's all about the blend- spicy, sensual, dark and sweet. It feels romantic and mysterious. It's incredibly long-lasting (easily more than 12 hours). A full bottle is now on my ever-growing wish list, a sentiment that seems to be shared by Ida from Ca Fleur Bon.

Gypsy is part of the Outlaw Perfume Project. The sample was provided by Providence Perfume Co. (providenceperfume.com).

Today's question: What was the last perfume that made you feel a strong emotion? When was that?


Art: Gitana II by Fabian Perez

Outlaw Perfume- The Revolution Has Started

I first became aware of IFRA and the restriction of certain perfume ingredients sometime around the end of 2005 or the beginning of 2006. I was already an avid reader of perfume and beauty blogs but had yet to start my own. I've read that some classic formula had to be changed because IFRA, a weird organization of which I've never heard before was trying to eliminate raw materials that could cause skin allergies. But none of this made much sense. Skin allergies? I was certainly familiar with those being very sensitive to a bunch of soaps, detergents, hair and body products and very common household products. They give me a rash so I do my best to prevent skin contact. All these items were clearly labeled with "if a rash develops discontinue use". So I discontinue use just as I read the labels on food, medication and cat treats. This perfume issue could not be true, right?

Only it was. And soon it became clear this wasn't just about oakmoss. There (among many others) went lavender, certain rose absolutes, pure jasmine, lemon verbena and citrus oil. Yes, the stuff you get on your hands, raw and undiluted, every time you peel an orange or zest a lemon. And why was IFRA insisting on restricting to the point of neutering or outright banning ingredients in perfume while everything else from bleach to peanuts only gets a warning label? Because according to the EU, people who use perfumes cannot be trusted to read labels. Seriously.

One by one beloved perfumes were changed to the point they became unrecognizable and the industry kept quiet. Guerlain changed some formulas and discontinued others, Chanel (still!) kept denying anything was going on, pretending loyal customers were either dumb, anosmic or both and everyone else followed suit. It's their livelihood, after all.

It became clear that if anything was going to change, if anyone was going to say "enough!" it was not going to be the big corporations. They'd just keep on churning bottle after bottle of bland synthetic dreck, put all their money into marketing and shiny ad campaigns and pray we wouldn't notice. But we did and we still do. The answer seems to be coming from the indie perfumers, especially those dedicated to cultivating and using the best natural ingredient the world has to offer.

The Outlaw Perfume project is one such effort. The Natural Perfume Guild headed by Anya McCoy is embarking on creating a series of perfumes that would make IFRA itch. Made from the good stuff and smelling like perfume should smell, every Outlaw perfume will have a clear warning label. It's up to us to use them right. This project is backed by several bloggers and websites and will include reviews and exciting giveaways. Here are the other participating writers:

Elena at Perfume Shrine
Pat at Olfactarama
Donna at the Examiner.com
Carol at Waft by Carol
Beth at Perfume Smelling Things
Felicia at Fragrance Belles Lettres
Lucy at Indie Perfumes
Ida, Mark and Monica from Ca Fleure Bon

So, here's today's question: When did you become aware of IFRA and its influence on the perfume industry? What was the first reformulation you noticed?

Top image: Brigitte Bardot and Serge Gainsbourg as Bonnie & Clyde, 1968
Outlaw Perfume logo: Anya McCoy

Ayala Moriel- Epice Sauvage

Wearing Epice Sauvage for the first time is fun. One assumes the wrist-to-nose position and starts inhaling, trying to take it all in while identifying each and every spice in the blend, and they are all there and very obvious at first-cardamom, cinnamon and clove, smooth, spicy and warm like a wonderful cup of chai.

The exotic theme continues, but in another direction once the jasmine makes an appearance. Natural perfumer Ayala Sender of Ayala Moriel Parfums is a jasmine sorceress. She takes this somewhat problematic note and brings out the best in it. Hot summer nights in a beautiful faraway land, the sensuality and the more delicate aspects of jasmine are woven together with the spices into a heady perfume that is all silk and color.

The perfume dries down into a honeyed wood base, well-balanced and not too sweet. Some of the spices, especially clove and cinnamon keep popping up and maintaining the exotic oriental feel of Epice Sauvage. The lasting power depends on how much one uses, and I find that a normal application of several dabs of the parfum extrait to the pulse points only lasts a couple of hours. This led me to using most of my second sample and almost bathe in it. I was in spice heaven for the better part of a day.

Epice Sauvage ($110, 9 ml extrait de parfum) is available from ayalamoriel.com. It also comes in several other sizes and formulations. A sample pack of six scents is currently priced at $40.

Image: Model Anne Gunning in Jaipur, India by Norman Parkinson, Vogue, November 1956

La Via del Profumo In The New York Times

For most of the New York Times readers, this article is probably the first time they've heard about La Via del Profumo and the nose behind it, Dominique Durbana. Perfume nuts in general and those interested in natural perfumery in particular might already know him as AbdesSalaam Attar. I couldn't be happier to see him get the exposure he so deserves.

Photo: The New York Times

Ayala Moriel- Ayalitta

Some summer days feel like the embodiment of childhood. Not necessarily a specific person's childhood, just the  general idea of carefree days stretching endlessly, playing outdoors at all hours and eating lemon popsicles. Ayala Moriel composed Ayalitta as a reminder of child-like innocence, but this is not your typical "young" perfume. Far from it, actually. Ayalitta is a chypre, all oakmoss and green galbanum, with a dry-down that is fully grown up.

The overall impression is very green. The herbal notes have a surprising tartness that captures your attention from the start and never fully leaves the skin. It goes well with the neroli and feels very uplifting and optimistic. Soon it morphs into a fully developed chypre with all the depth and character one desires. The scent moves through its development smoothly like a green forest nymph, bare feet on mossy ground. At some point, before Ayalitta dissipates, there's a hint of a more carnal element, a touch of sticky sweaty skin, and then it's gone, leaving you guessing.

The sillage and lasting time are among the more persistent of Ayala's perfumes. Then again, green notes usually stay with me longer than I expect. The remnants of Ayalitta on my pillow welcome me back the next day. What's left on fabric is a bit cleaner than the way it feels on skin- maybe it's the coolness of sage. It also works well on cold winter days. There's something about crisp chypres that make them come alive in a different and wonderful way.

Ayalitta by Ayala Moriel Parfums ($120, 10ml parfum oil) and various sample sets are available from ayalamoriel.com

Art: Young Lady With Gloves by Tamara de Lempicka, 1930

Anya's Garden Kewdra- Giveaway and Review- Mystery Of Musk Part 4

***The giveaway in now closed. The Winner is tmp00***

My first thought upon smelling the bold, curvy and spicy opening of Anya's Garden Kewdra was "oh no, she didn't". But of course, she did. I should have known she would go there.

If musk is the sexiest of substances, Anya McCoy went right to the heart of it and created the Kama Sutra in a bottle. I haven't read Jitterbug Perfume, the Tom Robbins novel that inspired McCoy, so I can't add any insight into that aspect. I can only speak of the things I smell, the depths and the emotions Kewdra evokes.

The opening sweeps you away and carries you to India. There's no question about it- the spices and colors are all there, and even I, who hasn't been to India yet can hear the music, the jingling of jewelry on henna-painted hands and feel the hot air and silk. Red, orange, hot pink and saffron, a blend of Garam Masala that didn't come from the spice rack in Whole Foods,exotic flowers worn in one's hair and woven into long chains hanging everywhere. And the heat... you can't escape the heat that rises from bodies and from the earth itself and mixes all those scents and sensations into a thick substance that goes right to your head.

(Did the little red Ganesh statue my sister brought me from India just wink at me?)

And that was just the beginning.

When things calm down a little you're left with a sweet musk. The vanilla, angelica and patchouli stand out to me most, but it's the honeyed feel of the skin at night  that is so haunting and tempting in Kewdra. It's incredibly daring and sexual and not just because after the first hour you must be almost at skin level to smell it (and it lasts and last for hours, all through the night if I apply it before bed). It's the extremely animalic scent of the beeswax and ambrette seed that takes residence on the body. I never want it to stop.

One very lucky reader is going to win the fabulous bottle you see in this picture. It contains half an ounce (15ml) of the magical Kewdra from Anya's Garden (the rest of us can buy it in the regular bottles and sample vials from Anya's website. It's already available for sale). To enter the giveaway please leave a comment and tell us:

1. Have you been following the Mystery Of Musk project across the blogs?
2. Which perfumes and/or perfumers have captured your interest the most?
3. What musky perfumes have you been using so far (commercial, natural, niche, mainstream, etc.)?

Photo at the top from the 1996 movie Kama Sutra, featuring the young Naveen Andrews.
Photo of Kewdra bottle by Anya McCoy

The Mystery Of Musk 3- DSH Perfumes- Musk Eau Natural

The third Mystery Of Musk day brings us a stunner. Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes created Musk  Eau Natural using nothing that was not on the list of musk-like materials suggested by the Natural Perfumers Guild (containing 21 ingredients, 17 of them botanical, the others are the non-cruelty animal based). Limiting the pallet like this could have ended in a crude half-baked product. Instead, she created a polished, well-balanced gem.

DSH was inspired by the era of the most daring and innovative perfumes, the Art Deco period, that gave us some of the Chanel, Coty and Guerlain classics in their original no holds barred incarnation, real animalic materials and strong sensual sillage. Recreating such an atmosphere within the Guild's guideline is one part of the triumph. The other part is how marvelous it smells.

Musk Eau Natural smells like the fuzzy lovechild of Mecca Balsam (an all natural perfume) and Tauer's L'Air du Deset Marocain (a blend of naturals and synthetics). It's the costus and labdanum, smoky resins and oriental touch that creates this impression right from the top notes. The opening is strong and animalic but it  treads on soft paws and has no abrasive edges. It feels like you could wear it at the Algonquin round table and it would instantly contribute to your wit and allow you to mingle.

Somwehere along the scent's long wear (it's a parfum concentration and a couple of drops last for the better part of the day) the base gets sweeter and softer. The ambery nectar of patchouli, vanilla, woods and resins creates that warm feeling of a musky skin. The fragrance is incredibly intimate at this stage, inviting and irresistibly sexy.

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz offers Musk Eau Natural as part of her Parfums des Beaux Arts series together with three other new all-natural musks, including a chypre-musk (called ESME or Mystery of Musk Version 4). There's currently a special summer 20% off offer with code July10 (valid until July 21st). I have every intention to make a good use of it.

Elena of Perfume Shrine has reviewed Musk Eau Natural here. I think her giveaway of a full bottle might still be open, so sign up for it if you haven't already. The full list of participants in the project can be found in yesterday's post. Don't forget: Tomorrow night I'm going to post my review and giveaway of Kewdra by Anya's Garden. 

Art: Tamara de Lempicka- The Dream, 1927

The Mystery Of Musk- Part 2

Reminder: The Aftelier giveaway is still open for comments here

We continue the natural musk-less musk adventure. I'm  anosmic to some musks (I tested some of the oils and blends they sell at Whole Foods and couldn't smell several. Many of those were labeled "Egyptian Musk"), but when I can actually smell them, they are among the best things to ever happen to my skin. The sultry dirty warmth sits very well with me, as is obvious by looking at my personal collection. Experiencing the different musk stories couldn't have been more enjoyable (remind me I said this if we ever do a vanilla project)- I'm not just in my element, I'm in my catnip.

Drifting Sparks from Artemisia Natural Perfume begins smoky and woody. The very animalic quality remains there even as the scent takes a sharp turn and morphs into a big white floral centered around jasmine. It's a bit shrilly on me, but at the same time I can't keep my nose away from my arm when wearing it, trying to follow the progression and constant change and movement. There's a salty quality, sea air that drifts closer and then goes away for a while only to reappear and bring with it a hint of smoke and fire from afar. That's where the musky quality becomes so apparent. My favorite part of Drifting Sparks is the dry-down. The blend of smoke, salty skin and sweetness is a great interpretation of the theme. While it doesn't live long enough on my skin, the two  hour journey is exhilarating.

Tallulah B2 by Jane Cate from A Wing & A Prayer Perfumes started so citrusy I was worried at first I got the wrong sample. A juicy blend of grapefruit, orange and mandarin is not how I'd expect a musk perfume to open. Then came the sweet and creamy vanilla, but before one can say Theorema, the scent becomes soft and incredibly fuzzy. It's like smelling Theorema through a thick layer of cashmere- an interesting and pleasant sensation, though not necessarily one I'd connect with the legendary Tallulah Bankhead.  But a serious shape-shifting takes place after a while- a very familiar musk appears on my skin and the first time I tried it had me floored- It smelled like a softer version of MKK. That sweet and warm no-longer quite clean skin scent that has a hint of fruit and a whole lot of promised pleasure. I have a feeling this dry-down would have won Ms. Bankhead's approval. It certainly won mine. Longevity is good (more than six hours), sillage lower than low- this is a skin scent if there ever was one.

More musk tomorrow and a big giveaway on Wednesday. In the meantime, please visit the other participants in the project:
I Smell Therefore I Am
Olfactarama
Perfume Shrine
Indie Perfumes
Bitter Grace Notes
CaFleureBon
First Nerve
Olfactory Rescue Service
Grain de Musc

Photos:
Jane at Sunrise by Leora Long
Tallulah Bankhead, photographed by Carl Van Vechten, 1934

The Mystery Of Musk- A Celebration Of Natural Materials, Artisan Perfumers And Happy Bloggers- Part 1

Before we start with the new project at hand, just a reminder that the Aftelier contest is still open and everyone is invited to enter and win a mini bottle of a Mandy Aftel creation.

The Natural Perfume Guild is celebrating its fourth anniversary. In the world of artisan perfumery, natural and botanical perfumers are an even smaller group that has taken upon itself to only use perfume ingredients that can be distilled and extracted from nature. And you can definitely smell it. Raw materials have an edge. Sometimes there's a jagged top that is so tactile you don't only smell and "see" a mental picture, you can almost feel the texture of coarsely crushed leaves, roots and fossils in your hand. Other times there's such a velvety smoothness that your skin feels like honey. But the best part of these creations is the hand-made aspect.

I know I'm not telling you anything new, but it's worth repeating: true luxury (and not just in perfume, it's true for jewelry, handbags and cheese) isn't bought at Macy's and doesn't have a famous label one can buy at the mall. True luxury is a unique item, hand-made by a skilled artist who selected the best materials and  has a point of view and a personal touch. The natural Perfume Guild brings together the people who create these gems, it educates and promotes quality and artistic expression in perfumery.

The chosen theme for this project is musk. It's such a famous and even notorious note/material, but also often misunderstood or mislabeled. Most people know that in days of yore musk was extracted from a gland in musk deer. Hence the animalic connotations and bad reputation. This hasn't been the case in decades, as musk deer is now a protected species and the use of "real" musk in perfumery is prohibited. But the idea of musk is still very much alive. The warmth, the slightly dirty-in-a-good-way feel, the way it caresses and envelopes your skin- perfumers and perfume wearers would not give it up.

Luckily, similar musky effects can be derived from non-Bambi sources. While ambrette seed and angelica root are the only botanicals that contain microcyclic musk like the real thing, other sources from carrot seed to cumin can give interesting results. Some of the Guild members use strictly botanical materials, others also include cruelty-free animal derived musk products (like goat hair). Ten perfumers are taking part in this project and letting us experience their musk story- the way they perceive and interpret it. Today I'm bringing you two examples- Musk Nouveau by Providence Perfume Co. (perfumer Charna Ethier) and Verdigris from Bellyflowers.

The name Verdigris couldn't be more fitting. This stuff is green. Really green. It's a good example to that raw and jagged edge I mentioned above. Clary sage often does that,  and Verdigris augments this green punch-in-the face with fir balsam absolute and green mandarin oil. The latter is so vivid you can almost taste it. It's such an odd sensation and I needed about ten minutes to be able to smell past the green and see the how it relates to musk. Things start sweetening when the heart notes move to the center. While there's more green in the form of violet leaf, it's the lavender-opoponax blend that got me, my nose and my heart. All of a sudden the sharpness was gone and the fantasy began. There's life in the shrubbery, little things awaken and emerge and the earth comes alive. The base is surprisingly darker and thicker. The notes are patchouli, ambergris (a tincture, I assume of the real thing), labdanum, African stone tincture and benzoin. It certainly feels like it's all there- the saltiness, the black fertile earth and a natural sweetness that has nothing to do with food and everything to do with licking your own skin.

Musk Nouveau starts with booze and lots of it. The top notes are sherry and black pepper, but for the first two minutes my skin smelled like I had an accident involving the liqueur cabinet. Then it was all about the tropics and I had an image of a not-quite sober frolicking on a remote beach during on a hot summer night. There were exotic flowers everywhere, including in my hair and in my lovers hands. Seriously, the jasmine and champaca in Musk Nouveau are among the dirtiest I've ever smelled. They no longer make them quite this skanky and it's a shame, really, because if these notes are neutered of their wicked element you also miss on their surrender into the dry-down and the way they swirl into the very thick darkness. Musk Nouveau's base is a plum-colored velvet and patchouli. It's sweet with an almost fruity quality, with just enough herbal angelica from becoming a musk cliché.

Stay tuned for more musky goodness including a giveaway on Wednesday that is going to make one lucky musk-loving reader extremely happy. Don't forget to visit the other participants in the project:

I Smell Therefore I Am
Olfactarama
Perfume Shrine
Indie Perfumes
Bitter Grace Notes
CaFleureBon
First Nerve
Olfactory Rescue Service
Grain de Musc

Art: Zig Brunner, La Vie Parisienne, 1930

Aftelier Site Re-Launch And Special Contest-Giveaway

Natural Perfumer Mandy Aftel has redesigned and overhauled her website, Aftelier.com. I've spent more time than I care to admit exploring the products and wealth of information she offers about natural perfumes and essences and entertained a little fantasy about commissioning a bespoke perfume. Up until now I was only familiar with the Aftelier scents that are sold at Henri Bendel (my favorites have always been Tango and Fig, but I also have a serious thing for Cacao). But now I've been reading about the EDP formulation, the bath and body line and  the chef essences- yes, scents for food by a celebrated perfumer. I've been taking mental notes that can be summed as "want! want! WANT! NEED!".

Now Mandy is offering one of The Non-Blonde readers a mini perfume of  their choice (excluding Parfum Prive). To enter the contest you will need to visit Aftelier.com and then come back here to leave a comment that answers the first two questions and optionally the third one:

1. Have you tried any of of Aftelier creations? If not, which one(s) interest you most?
2. What is the ingredient in the center of Parfum Privé?
3. (Optional) What content/features would you like to see added to the Aftelier site? What would make visiting it a better experience?


The contest will remain open until Wednesday, July 7th.

Photo of Mandy Aftel at her perfume organ from the website.

*Disclaimer and clarification: I'm not affiliated with Aftelier and have no commercial interest in this giveaway in any way, shape or form. But you knew that, right?

Natural Perfumery In The NY Times

I can't begin to tell you how thrilled I was to read this article about natural perfumery in the NY Times. It features a couple of my favorite perfume artists and highlights their work, art and gardens.

Photo of a red plumeria in Anya McCoy's garden: Bob McCulley for NY Times