Hourglass Cosmetics Film Noir Full Spectrum Mascara (Onyx)

I really appreciate a mascara that does it all- lengthens, defines, volumizes and gives lashes a glossy black coat that holds curl beautifully. My new love in this category is Hourglass Film Noir Full Spectrum Mascara. It only comes in one color- Onyx- the aforementioned glossy black, but it works so hard and performs so well I don't really mind the lack of other options.

The formula is enriched with ProVitamin B5, which just like in certain hair products is responsible to the glossy finish. I've heard that some people might be sensitive to it, but I haven't experienced any issues with this Hourglass mascara neither while wearing it nor when taking it off.

One coat over curled lashes gives lashes a very noticeable boost in length and volume and stays put all day. I've gone through two sample tubes and the mascara never dried or clumped and hasn't lost its finish or performance level. I rarely use mascara on my bottom lashes and even if I did, Hourglass Film Noir is too black and heavy duty for this task- I don't need any extra attention for my under-eye area, but as usual, your mileage may vary.

Hourglass Cosmetics Film Noir Full Spectrum Mascara ($28) is available from Barneys and Sephora. My samples came with various GWPs.

Photos by me.

Benefit Cosmetics BADgal Plum Mascara

The Benefit mini mascara duo of BADgal Lash and BADgal Plum was a GWP, which frankly, would have been the only way to get me to test them considering my huge disappointment with BADgal Blue a few years ago. I like several Benefit Cosmetics products, but their previous mascaras have never gotten on my good side.

Neither did BADgal Plum. Just like with its blue predecessor, the color never shows up on my lashes and doesn't contribute anything. Add to that sub-par performance, no extra definition and a propensity to smudging and you get an inferior mascara at an inflated price.

Bottom Line: I doubt I can bring myself to test the black one.

BADgal Plum Mascara ($19) is available from Sephora, in store and online.

All photos are mine.

YSL Blue Mascara Volume Effet Faux Cils

This will be the last blue mascara review for a while. I tested and loved quite a few- blue mascaras have definitely come a long way since the 80s and its pretty easy to find a good one. The general rule is that brands that make a good mascara are more likely to offer something nice in blue.

I loved the black YSL Volume Effet Faux Cils from first testing. It's a great volumizer and holds a curl beautifully. It comes in several shades and Number 3, Extreme Blue is one of the options (there's also a blackened navy which I haven't tried. Yet). Obviously, on very dark lashes the color is not that bold, but it stands out a little more than the Buxom blue mascara that looks similar on the wand. This is probably due the thicker YSL formula that gives lashes a heavier coat. Still, it's very wearable and not loud at all- the blue just brightens things up a notch and looks pretty against beige and champagne eye shadows.

Volume Effet Faux Cils is quite resilient and stays on nicely, though I had one smudging occurrence (in three months of testing) after touching my eyes on a super humid and rainy day. From what I understand, the Volume Effet Faux Cils performs better when it has something unto which it can hold. It might not be the one if your lashes are very sparse, but for me it's an ideal product because it boosts the appearance while the blue shade is keeping things from looking too harsh or dramatic.

YSL Volume Effet Faux Cils mascara ($30) is available from select department stores, Sephora and the company's website.

All photos are mine.

Le Metier de Beaute Midnight Anamorphic Lash Mascara

One of the very first Le Metier de Beaute products I tested was their Anamorphic Mascara in Jade. Its quality caught my attention immediately, as did their use of color. Here was a black-based green that was dark enough to be a functional mascara and not make my lashes look weird and dusty (a problem with most mainstream brands colored mascaras), but still have enough green tint to brighten my eyes and bring out their color. Since then I've had my makeup done several times by Le Metier people who used Aubergine on my lashes (it's gorgeous and I really need to get one), so I had to add Midnight to my blue mascara quest.

Like the other Le Metier de Beaute colored mascaras, Midnight is black-based, so the lashes are darkened enough to stand out. The blue shade is beautiful and brightens the eye area without looking too obvious. It has a somewhat glossy finish, but again, the result is not overly done and works very well with a soft neutral eye. As far as quality goes, this mascara is top notch- it provides good volume, a little extra length, separation and definition with no clumps or smudges. It stays in place until I go after it with a makeup remover and doesn't require extra effort for cleanup.

Bottom Line: Yes, it's that good.

Le Metier de Beaute Anamorphic Lash Mascara ($34) in Midnight and other colors is available from Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus and now also Nordstrom Online. Overseas you can find it at Selfridges, among other locations.

All photos are mine.

Givenchy Phenomen'Eyes Effet Extension Blue

Here's some more blue mascara love. I'm on my third regular black Givenchy Phenomen'Eyes mascara, so a new addition to this range and a blue one at that was very welcome. Phenomen'Eyes Effet Extension has the same spheric brush of the original Phenomen'Eyes, but the formula is noticeably different. It's a bit thinner and is decidedly more lengthening than volumizing. The result is less dramatic, especially in this muted blue shade, but quite sophisticated.

I find that I might actually prefer the original Phenomen'Eyes formula because I like the extra volume, but since it doesn't come in blue and this shade is lovely and elegant, I can deal. I have a feeling that Effet Extension Formula might not perform as well for those with sparse or fine lashes, because it would not have enough hold, thus resulting in smudging. It's just a hunch, though, and I can't prove it. My sister has similar lashes to mine and I suspect the husband wouldn't be thrilled if I used him as a test subject this time.

On my lashes there are no longevity or performance issues. The mascara holds from morning to night, responds well to curling and looks fabulous. I'd be happier if they offered this blue color in the original Phenomen'Eyes formula that gives a lot more visibility and volume, but on the other hand it makes Effet Extension daytime appropriate, so that's something.

Givenchy Phenomen'Eyes Effet Extension Blue ($29) is a Sephora exclusive.

Photos are mine.

Buxom Lash Mascara Special Effects Blue Noir

The blue mascara obsession continues.

The black Buxom Lash from Bare Escentuals has been a favorite of mine for nearly a year because of its great tenacity and the superb separating abilities of the brush. It was reason enough to get over my fear of too bright colors and give Blue Noir a try (what's with the hybrid English/French name?)

The blue shade looks scary on the brush and is much brighter than many modern blue mascaras: see the photo comparison to Givenchy PhenomenEyes (review coming next week). On dark lashes, though, it becomes a demure navy. Still, if you're pale and your lashes are very light, I'd advise you proceed with caution, as this Buxom mascara has the potential to give you a serious pop of color. I find it very wearable and it works well with both summer and early fall colors.

Performance and texture-wise, Blue Noir is close to the original Buxom Black. It gives an even coating, enhances both volume and length without looking exaggerated and holds a curl nicely. It is much more prone to smudging, though, and on occasion I found myself with an unintentional deep blue smoky eye, so I'd suggest finding another alternative for super humid days or if you tend to rub your eyes.

Bottom Line: Decent, but not as good as I hoped.

Buxom Lash Mascara Special Effects Blue Noir ($18) is a Sephora exclusive.

All photos are mine.

Giorgio Armani Fall 2010 Blue Grey Night Eyes To Kill Mascara (05)

From the Chronicles of the Blue Mascara.

Giorgio Armani's Eye To Kill mascara has set a new standard for what a top mascara should be. It doesn't only deliver excellent volume and length, but it's also dreamily weightless. There's no goopy stickiness even when the tube nears the end of its life (and I know, since I'm on my second black one). I don't think I ever needed a lash comb after using Eyes To Kill.

The new color, Blue Grey Night (#5), is the fall 2010 exclusive shade, part of Giorgio Armani's Night Viper look. It's a muted steel blue that isn't too obvious- the shade is darker than Graphite (#3) which look too dusty on me. Blue Grey Night looks good on my almost-black lashes and delivers that subtle brightening effect one gets from a (good) blue mascara.

Performance-wise, Eyes To Kill is as good as it gets. While I keep wondering if #5 is quite as lengthening as the black version (or maybe it's just my imagination and the fact the mascara is not black, thus creating less contrast), I'm very happy with it.

Bottom Line: You can't go wrong with this one.

Giorgio Armani Fall 2010 Blue Grey Night Eyes To Kill Mascara ($30) is available from giorgioarmanibeauty.com, Saks and Barneys.

Photos are mine, cute nose is Sophie's.

Bobbi Brown Denim Extreme Party Mascara For Fall 2010

Bobbi Brown released her fall 2010 Extreme Party Mascara in a blue denim color just as my personal blue mascara obsession is in its height. Denim (3) is, of course, part of Bobbi's new Denim & Rose line and I find that it's right on-trend with several of the other fall collections. It's been years since I tested any of Bobbi Brown's mascaras. I was never impressed with any of them, but I don't even remember which mascaras I tried and I'm pretty sure the formulas have changed enough to warrant a second chance. And there's that blue factor.

Extreme Party Mascara was a pleasant surprise. While I don't think there's anything extreme about it, the results it's been giving me are pretty good, especially in the volume and definition department. I'm mostly reminded of my perennial favorites, Clinique High Impact, which gives a lot of character to the lashes without ever looking overdone or fake. The brush is pretty standard with lots of bristles and a tapered nose, it gives a good coverage, makes lashes look full and thick but isn't super cooperative when trying to reach the corner or individual lashes. The formula is of medium thickness, easy to apply and doesn't smudge, coon or dot.

The blue shade of Denim is dark enough to frame the eyes nicely. It's not bright and doesn't scream "Blue" but is definitely noticeable enough and interesting. I usually prefer to pair a colored mascara with a black eyeliner, but I've also tried a monochrome eye with Bobbi Brown's Denim Ink gel eyeliner and various blue eye shadows from different brands and collections and the result is quite pretty, even if I personally prefer less obvious looks.

Bottom Line: Very good.

Bobbi Brown Denim Extreme Party Mascara ($22) is available at just about every department store as well as from bobbibrown.com

All photos by me.

Kanebo Sensai 38°C Mascara- M3 Smoky Green (Limited Edition)

Smoky Green is a new limited edition color in Kanebo Sensai 38°C  Mascara line. This is the Separating & Lengthening formula with the delicate thin brush which I find easier to use than the angled brush of the Volumizing mascara. You can reach the base of the lashes with this brush and it creates a beautiful full fringe. I like it because the result is naturally full and healthy lashes. The mascara's texture is so good and smooth I can even apply it on my lower lashes to define them without looking too obvious or creating a dark shadow under the eyes.

Smoky Green is a black-based olive. On dark lashes it gives a hint of a color and is good when you want to lighten up the look and avoid black, or when you want your lashes to stand out against a shiny black eyeliner (this look is a bit too harsh for me, but it's not half bad). I also like applying this Sensai mascara  as a second coat just on the tips over a black-brown one, but this is probably something only long-lashed ladies should attempt. This color is probably best for blondes, though. It will stand out the most against fair skin and bring out any flecks of green or hazel in your eyes. Mine have more cinnamon and the contrast is interesting, but I think navy works better for me.

One thing to avoid if you have very dark lashes is applying the 38°C  (and most colored mascara) directly over a white base. While it makes the color more obvious, the lashes look dusty and too light. I tried it with two different primers and got the same unflattering results, so keep that in mind. Blondes need not worry about this and using a lash base would probably intensify the mascara's effect on them.

Bottom Line: Excellent for blondes, worth a try for most.

Kanebo Sensai 38°C  Mascara ($25) is sold at Bergfdorf Goodman (Neiman Marcus is online only). You'll probably need to give them a call to reserve one in this color. I received this press preview sample from the PR team.

Photos by me.

Cle de Peau- The Mascara

My local Cle de Peau SA was very excited about their newest mascara, the one called "The Mascara". Her enthusiasm was contagious and the promises in the marketing materials even more so: it lengthens! it curls! it creates drama and volume! Who can ignore all that, especially since Cle de Peau is one of my favorite brands?

Let's start with the good: The mascara has a nice glossy black finish. It dries quickly, stays on all day and doesn't flake or smudge even when I accidentally touch my eyes. But that's about it. Performance, both volume and length-wise is nothing more than decent. There's absolutely no drama there and the result is less than impressive. The curved brush emphasizes the lashes in the outer corners but application is not even. This mascara is so atrociously expensive- compare Cle de Peau's $50 price tag to Kanebo Sensai Mascaras ($25 for the 38 Degree mascara and $32 for the Volumizing one) or Giorgio Armani Eyes To Kill, which is one of the very best mascaras on the market today ($32). I'm all for luxury and finding the best products money can buy, but this is not the one.

Bottom Line: Avoid.

Cle de Peau The Mascara ($50) is available from top department stores. I bought it at my local Saks.

Photos by me.

Mally Beauty Volumizing Mascara

I like products that do exactly what they promise. The Volumizing Mascara from Mally Beauty is one such item. I admit I have an odd aversion to QVC which made me mostly ignore this line by celebrity makeup artist Mally Roncal. But I got this mascara from Henri Bendel and I'm very glad I did.

Thick volumizing mascaras can be on the dry and clumpy side and often become hard (or impossible) to use before the tube is finished. But I've been using this mascara for weeks now with no sign of deteriorating quality. It gives the lashes a glossy black coat and a visibly thicker presence. While there's no lengthening effect to speak of, the extra volume is quite dramatic and impressive, and it holds nicely for an entire day without flaking or smudging.

The brush is on the thick side, it offers no gimmicks or curves. It takes a bit of work to reach corners and coat all the lashes, and I admit I don't always bother because even with an 80% coverage the results are noticeable enough for me. The formula seems quite heavy, which works well for me. My lashes are long and reasonably thick to begin with,  so this mascara has a good base onto which it can stick. If your lashes are very thin and sparse this might be too heavy and weigh them down.

Mally Beauty Volumizing Mascara ($20) is available from Henri Bendel, QVC and mallybeauty.com.

Photos by me.

Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics- Mineral Lengthening Mascara and Lash Primer

I was a bit hesitant before applying Youngblood Mineral Lash Primer to my eyelashes. The runny texture and milky white color looked worrisome, but the promise of fuller and thicker lashes was tempting. And besides, I try stuff so you don't have to.

The way this works, you apply one coat of the primer and immediately, while your lashes are still wet, the first coat of mascara. The polymers in the primer helps the mascara cover each lash separately and gives some plumping. It's especially helpful if the mascara you're using is a lengthening one, as in the case of Youngblood's Mineral Lengthening Mascara.

This mascara is quite good. Nothing dramatic and thankfully I don't end up looking like Veruschka above. My eyelashes are nicely defined, seperated and look polished without clumps, smears or flakes. The finish is natural, not glossy (I have the black mascara). It's a clean, office-friendly look. I also tested the primer with other mascaras. It worked the same way, with the most impressive results for volumizing mascaras. The primer seems to enhance whatever the mascara was doing. Drying time doesn't seem to be affected.

Bottom line: Easy to apply and foolproof. Not revolutionary, but solid results and a nice look.

Youngblood Mineral Lengthening Mascara ($24) and Lash Primer ($22) are available at Henri Bendel in NYC and directly through the company's website (ybskin.com). I received both as PR freebies.

Photo: myvintagevogue.com

Chanel Mascara Comparison: Exceptionnel and Inimitable

In which we get too close for comfort. Literally.

I've been going through a bunch of Chanel mascara samples, trying to decide which one is the best and if I need to add any to my regular mascara arsenal. The mascaras were Inimitable in Noir Obscur and Exceptionnel de Chanel in #10 Noir. I tested two mini tubes of each line for several weeks.

Inimitable has been around for several years now. I had it in both black and brown at some point but was never enamored enough to keep purchasing. I can't be sure, but I think there has been a change in formula and it's now less prone to smudges. But it's been several years since I used Inimitable regularly.

As you can see, the differences are both in textures and in the wand. Inimitable has the better brush with short comb teeth all around it that separates and reaches the smaller lashes. This is important in this case, because the formula tends to clump. The look is dramatic and distinct with a lot of extra length but not vulgar, as long as you make sure to apply as cleanly as possible. It doesn't hold a curl very well, so there's some droopiness after a couple of hours.

Exceptionnel is quite different. The color is less glossy, the brush has only three rows of teeth (another one would have given it a serious performance boost) and its focus is on volume. The thick formula give the lashes a full coat that somehow isn't too heavy (maybe that's why the brush is a bit sparse) and holds the curl beautifully. The one big issue with Exceptionnel is dryness. It's dry to begin with and becomes even more so after a week of constant use. It's not a problem when you get the mini GWP and promotional samples, but forking $30 for a tube that will not reach the 3 month mark.

Bottom line: I'll stick with Armani.

Both Exceptionnel and Inimitable ($30 each) can be found at your local Chanel counter or on chanel.com. My samples came with various purchases online and in store.

Photos, eyes and eyebrows that are due to be groomed are mine. I'm not wearing any other eye makeup in these photos and haven't used a curler or a lash primer, so what you see is what you get.

Kanebo Sensai 38°C Volumizing Mascara

Show me a mascara with a special shaped brush and I'm there, excited to try it and see how it differs from all the other super wands. But it turned out that I like the Kanebo Sensai 38°C Volumizing Mascara despite the brush and not because of it.

The 38°C Volumizing Mascara has a wonderful glossy formula that makes the lashes stand out instantly without gooping them up. It gives a lot of definition and a reasonable increase in volume, though not very dramatic, so one or two coats are great for everyday wear.You can build it up for more impact if desired and the lashes remain separate and clump-free. I find that this Sensai mascara also gives my lashes a significant eye-opening lift and holds a curl nicely. Combined with the color intensity and glossy finish, the final result looks very polished.

Another advantage of the 38C formula is its durability. The longest I've had it on was 16 hours and it stayed firmly in place despite a nap on the couch and a quick eye rubbing. It never flaked or left any black debris around my eyes, yet the mascara is easy to remove with any conventional product.

My issue with the brush is caused by the angle of the curve. Apparently, this arch is not ideal for my specific eye shape and I can't reach with it to the tiny lashes in the inner corners (the outer side of the eye allows for more wiggle room). The brush is thin, so it gets the base of the lashes, but this same flexibility made me try several times to capture the more elusive lashes and I ended up getting the brush in my eye and making a royal mess. While these weren't my finest moments, I discovered another thing about the Kanebo Sensai formula- it's very gentle and non-irritating, so if you have sensitive eyes and/or wear contacts this is definitely worth trying.

Bottom Line: In the end I learned to get the best of the 38°C Volumizing Mascara without stabbing myself in the eye.

Sensai by Kanebo 38°C Volumizing Mascara ($32) is available from Bergdorf Goodman (in store and online) and Neiman Marcus (online only). I received a couple of samples from the company.

Photos by me.

Imju Fiberwig Mascara

I'm going to file this one under "stuff I just don't get". Imju is a Japanese brand I've never encountered before and is now a Sephora exclusive. It was launched here with some fanfare and the email newsletter intrigued me enough to include a Fiberwig mascara in one of my recent orders. After all, what's not to love about "dramatic length" and "false eyelash-like" results?

Just the part where it doesn't deliver.

The thing about mascara is that performance varies based on the shape and texture of one's lashes. Certain formulas adhere differently to people's lashes because of length, thickness and level of curl. That's why one person gets phenomenal results from a mascara that does nothing for their friend. And speaking of diddly squat, that's exactly what I see whenever I test Fiberwig. While you can clearly see that the mascara contains tiny fibers that are supposed to stick to your lashes and make them look much longer, they simply do not adhere to my lashes, so I can't see any added length. As the photos reveal, there's also no volume or any other defining action.

Bottom line: Utterly useless for me.

Imju Fiberwig Mascara ($24) is available from Sephora online and in store.

Photos and bloodshot eyes are all mine. For reference- In these pictures I'm not wearing any other eye makeup except the Fiberwig mascara and a dab of YSL Touche Eclat so you don't drown in my dark circles.

YSL Mascara Volume Effet Faux Cils

Over the last couple of months I've gone through three mini tubes of YSL Mascara Volume Effet Faux Cils. It is that good. Maybe not Armani Eyes To Kill good, but as these mascaras have slightly different objectives, they can happily coexist in my stash.

Volume Effet Faux Cils is the rival of DiorShow Extase mascara. Both add a significant amount of volume, but the YSL also contributes significantly in the length department  and envelopes the lashes in a very even and super pigmented coat (at least in black) that gives them a serious presence. Faux Cils really gives the impression you're wearing some extra lashes, which might not always be a desirable look, but if you're going for drama this is an excellent option.

This Yves Saint Laurent mascara's biggest advantage over the equivalent Dior is in texture. DiorShow Extase is very thick (to the point it dries out before you're 2/3 of the way through the tube) and might make application too messy and high maintenance (I made it work with very impressive results, but if you have very sparse lashes you might find it a challenge to avoid a mess). Faux Cils might not dress your lashes in a fat suit but it has far less goopy tendencies as reported by others, and doesn't dry up in the tube as quickly.

The mascara stays on from morning to night and I've had no smudging issues with any of the test tubes.

Bottom line: The navy blue one is calling my name.

YSL Mascara Volume Effet Faux Cils ($30) is available from Yves Saint Laurent counters, Sephora and the company's website. The samples I had were GWP from various sources.

Photos by me.

Makeup For Ever Aqua Smoky Lash Waterproof Mascara

They weren't kidding when they said this was a waterproof mascara. It survives heavy rain and a hot shower and just refuses to leave until you go after it with an oil-based makeup remover. The problem is that as far as mascaras go, Aqua Smoky Lash from Makeup For Ever is an underachiever.

While Extra Black is a rich glossy black color that gives definition to the lashes, it does diddly squat for length and I suspect the added volume is more goop than a real thick coat. The texture is quite thick and on the dry side and it clumps too easily, even when you make sure to wipe the brush before applying. I used two different tubes of Aqua Smoky Lash and the results were the same whenever I wore it.

Bottom line: Meh.

Makeup For Ever Aqua Smoky Lash Waterproof Mascara ($22) is a Sephora exclusive. I got a couple of sample size tubes with various other purchases.

Makeup For Ever mascara photos by me.
Vintage mascara ad from pzrservices.typepad.com

Christian Dior- Diorshow Extase Mascara

It's been ages since I've last worn a Diorshow mascara. I actually like it very much, but I guess it's a case of too many mascaras, too little time. So I don't have a tube of the regular Diorshow on hand to compare to the brand new Christian Dior release, Diorshow Extase, but I can still tell that the new mascara packs some serious punch in the volume department.

When applying it, Diorshow Extase feels a bit goopy and thicker than my usual fare, but it actually goes on smoothly without messy clumps (I can't yet vouch how it would act after four or five weeks of use- older tubes often get tricky this way). It fully coats the lashes and seems to contribute to curling (and it holds the curl for a full day). My lashes look significantly thicker instantly, which was a bit weird as I'm quite well-endowed in that department, but the more I looked at my eyes the more I enjoyed it. It also seems that as the mascara dries and settles on the lashes, it looks even better- glossy black, full and heavy. The lengthening is marginal, but between the volume and the curling, the mascara gives lashes a very impressive boost.

The heavy coat comes with a price- my lashes feel a lot more stiff than normal, but the upside is the wonderful hold and staying power- no smudges even after I accidentally rubbed my eyes, and no flaking. It still comes relatively easily when using Lancome Bi-Facil, so there's no tugging come cleanup time.

Bottom line: Yes, your lashes do look fat in this.

Diorshow Extase ($28) is available starting this week. At the moment, Sephora offers it for Beauty Insiders only (at least online), but soon it'd be at every Dior counter. I received it from Christian Dior PR.

All photos by me.