Tim Gunn- Gunn's Golden Rules- A Book Review

A few years ago when reviewing Tim Gunn's Guide to Quality, Taste & Style I said "The crisp suit is there, but the real man is missing". It almost feels like someone listened, because Gunn's Golden Rules ($14.39 on Amazon) definitely fills up many of the gaps and allows us a more intimate look at one of the most interesting and deserving TV personalities of the last decade.

It's a little irritating that once again the publisher is trying to package Tim Gunn's message as a guide or a book of rules, and that the book has a co-author (this time Ada Calhoun).  I'm somewhat of a groupie and would have preferred to get Mr. Gunn's story unfiltered and in a pure autobiography format. Don't be misleaded by the "Rules" thing- this is a very personal book of stories and anecdotes about the author's life, family and career. Tim Gunn shares with us his philosophy, spirituality, encounters with luminaries such as André Leon Talley and views on human sexuality. He's a big advocate of etiquette and kindness but doesn't confuse manners with owning fish forks (he doesn't). He talks about his own gaffs (regifting!) with the same humor he uses when telling a hilarious story about Diane von Furstenberg and a hotdog.

It's interesting to note how even when telling gossipy stories, Mr. Gunn doesn't crosses the lines into malice territory. That includes the now infamous Anna Wintour anecdote (she was carried by her her bodyguards down five flights of stairs and tried to get Tim Gunn to retract the story until other witnesses came forth), or when criticizing the people who make the wardrobe choices for Suri Cruise. There are some fun Project Runway behind-the-scenes stories (he disliked Kenley just as much as we all did), but it's far less about the dirt and more about the lessons one can learn from it.

The best parts, though, are the more personal tales from Tim's childhood, painful adolescence and career as a teacher. It's fascinating to read about the evolution of the shy and stuttering boy from Washington DC into a worldly fashion authority. The book, like its author, is inspiring in a feel-good way. It's a little flawed (a couple of typos and maybe not enough Project Runway stories) but very human.  Fans of Tim Gunn will find it quite satisfying, at least until he takes the next step and releases a real memoir.

Photo of Tim Gunn signing his own bobbleheads by Gothamist LLC, 2006.

Mad Men: The Illustrated World by Dyna Moe- Book Review

I don't know about you, but I'm already in serious Mad Men withdrawal. I want to know what happens next and just see more. More Don, more Joan, more of Pete Campbell's giraffes. The last TV series that grabbed me like this was Buffy The Vampire Slayer; I own almost every official and unofficial guide and tie-in book as well as collections of essays on cultural and philosophical issues raised in the show. Seriously.

Mad Men has been generating its own crop of related books. As far as I know, Mad Men: The Illustrated World  by Dyna Moe is the first officially licensed tie-in to the show. Dyna Moe is the artist responsible for the Mad Men Yourself cartoons that everyone and their mother used as their Facebook profile picture last year. The book is based on  illustrations she created for the first three seasons (you can view them on her Flickr account) with some added content.

The thing to remember about Mad Men: The Illustrated World is that for better and for worse, this is the cartoon version. It doesn't take itself  seriously and neither should the reader, no matter how hard are the Mad Men withdrawal pains you're experiencing. The book has chapters dedicated to office culture, fashion and beauty, food & drink (including some recipes that would have been hilarious if we didn't know that people really used to eat this stuff) and the occasional historical and biographical anecdote. There are also a couple of contributions from people who actually work on the show, especially notable is actor Rich Sommer's account of mastering the bow tie.

The book is at its best when it offers real content about people, events and trends. I wish there was a lot more of that and less tongue-in-cheek stuff like the part about office equipment and etiquette. Out of the beauty & fashion section, the bouffant how-to is quite funny while the makeup guide was obviously written by someone who is not into makeup or vintage aesthetics. The Joan paper dolls are beautiful, though, and make me want to take them to my seamstress and plead with her to make me each one of the outfits.

Bottom Line: Superficial but fun. No worse than the Mad Men Barbie dolls.

Mad Men: The Illustrated World by Dyna Moe ($15 retail, $10.20 on Amazon) is available from most booksellers. A review copy was sent to me by the publisher.

Illustrations: Dyna Moe

Alison Arngrim- Confessions Of A Prairie Bitch- A Book Review

It takes quite a bit of talent to play a real villain. It takes even more than that if one is casted into the role at age eleven. And it requires a very remarkable person to play one of the most hated characters on TV from age 11 to 19. Alison Arngrim is that special person.

Alison Arngrim's biography (and life) isn't all about Little House On The Prairie, but Nellie Oleson is most definitely there as the character who shaped Ms. Arngrim, helped her cope with an ultra-dysfunctional family and personal tragedies. Nellie has saved Alison's sanity and probably also her life, and gave her an outlet to anger that otherwise would have probably led her to self destruction (just look at her friend and colleague Melissa Gilbert).

The book, despite some painful memories and a very complicated childhood, is written with a lot of humor and grace. It's fun, at times hilarious and allows the reader to hate  Melissa Sue Anderson (Mary Ingalls on the show), something apparently many of us needed.

Bottom Line: worth your time.



Alison Arngrim- Confessions Of A Prairie Bitch ($25.99 hardcover) is available on amazon.com and just about any half decent bookseller for far less than official retail price.

Queen Elizabeth II: A Photographic Portrait by Philip Ziegler- Book Review

Queen Elizabeth II: A Photographic Portrait just came out in the UK and I pre-ordered it, because that's what obsessed people royal watchers do. These are official, semi-official portraits and a handful of more casual pictures, including some taken by Prince Andrew. The photographs (by great names such as Sir Cecil Beaton, Marcus Adams and also Canadian pop star Bryan Adams) follow Queen Elizabeth from infancy up until last year. They are interesting not just for the magnificent jewels and clothes or the historic moments, but also for the way they work as a collection to reveal the flesh-and-blood side of someone we often see as a cartoon version (or the Spitting Image puppet) of herself.

The text part of the book, written by Philip Ziegler, is a pretty decent abridged biography of the Queen, suitable even for those who have limited interest in the subject (i.e. my husband). The text is super sympathetic to its subject to the point of trying to release Queen Elizabeth from any responsibility to the more questionable decisions from her past, such as pushing Princess Margaret to end her relationship with Peter Townsend. Still, it's interesting, well-written and serves as a good accompaniment to the truly wonderful photos.

Queen Elizabeth II: A Photographic Portrait by Philip Ziegler (£24.50 on amazon.co.uk) can be ordered online directly from the UK. even with shipping and exchange fees it's significantly cheaper than any other option.

Photo of (then) Princess Elizabeth and baby Prince Charles:  Britanica.com

Style Eyes by Taylor Chang-Babaian- Book Review

Style Eyes is the second book by makeup artist Taylor Chang-Babaian. Her first book, Asian Faces, focused on various makeup style and needs of Asian women. Now she's approaching women of all ethnicities but focusing on what might the most challenging part of makeup application: eyes.

The book covers everything from shaping your eye brows to applying false lashes. There are step-by-step instructions for every look and technique, explanations, definitions, tips and tricks. Ms. Chang-Babaian demystifies loose pigments, mineral products and tells you that when buying cream eye shadows you'd want a store with a good return policy. I especially loved the detailed how-tos for different eye shapes and lids. Those should give even the most inexperienced users a good idea how to create a polished look that really fits their features.

I wish there was a lot more discussion of color.  There's a casual mention that one can wear just about any color if done right, but not enough examples. It would have been great to see makeup looks focused on certain colors adapted to different faces, skin tones and occasions. Despite this flaw, Style Eyes offers enough useful information and inspiration even for those of us who are quite proficient with our liners and brushes. The photographs by Albert Sanchez are great- the models look human and you get a good idea of Taylor Chang Babaian's aesthetics. I plan to keep the book near my makeup dressers, so I can quickly refer to it when trying something new.

Bottom Line: Nice to have for just about anyone.

Style Eyes by Taylor Chang-Babaian ($17.95, paperback) will be out August 3rd. I received a review copy from the publisher.

Photo of Ms. Chang-Babaian's work by Albert Sanchez from cloutieragency.com

Prairie Tales by Melissa Gilbert- Book Review

I looked at some of the readers reviews of Prairie Tales on Amazon and it seems like people's issue with this book is how it shatters the image they had of their childhood's hero(es). They didn't want to know all the details about Half Pint's sex life, infidelities and the days of booze and coke during the 80s (and later). I don't know where these people have been all these years, but apparently not reading the tabloids or even People magazine. After all, Melissa Gilbert was engaged and had a very long relationship with Rob Lowe. It should have pointed them in a certain direction.

I'm a sucker for Hollywood memoirs. Not necessarily of the uber-juicy kind, actually, just plain good stories of the olden days when stars were stars and Lindsay Lohan was nothing but a spark in Dina's eye. Melissa Gilbert comes from a heavily connected show biz family. Everyone and their agents knew her father and her grandfather was an A-list comedy writer who has worked with everyone from Frank Sinatra to Groucho Marx, and he took Melissa to meet them all. Her own four decade career in show biz adds another dimension and layer of Hollywood encounters. If you grew up in the 70s and 80s you probably want to hear the stories from behind the scenes of the Little House as much as all the dirt about the Brat Pack, and the book delivers both. Sort of.

It's the Brat Pack part that is somewhat lacking. Don't get me wrong- there are some great stories from those days, and the best scene Ms. Gilbert describes takes place at a club with an assorted group of celebs around the table and ends with this line by Michael Jackson:

"You all can come to my house. I have a llama".

Indeed.
But at times it seems like while the book was edited by a lawyer (and not by a much-needed grammar oriented person) who made sure Gilbert wouldn't get in trouble with people like Tom Cruise, who makes a few appearances in the story but you never learn a single thing about him. Demi Moore is also there, but her character is as hollow as they come and you will not read even a single line about what Melissa thinks of her. But there's no such reserve when it comes to Shannen Doherty. It's a good story, too, although not very surprising.

The one place Gilbert comes across as harsh is when the story reaches her gig as president of the SAG. Politics of any kind give me a headache, and discussing the question of Valerie Harper's role and level of independence in that institution was not the most interesting thing ever. I do understand its importance, though, and there's a cute story about the night she got to hang out with Bill Clinton.

Melissa Gilbert talk (mostly) openly about her family, loves, addictions and plastic surgery. She comes across as very human, flawed and self-aware.It's an interesting journey and a good read for anyone who's "known" her for all these years.

Prairie Tales by Melissa Gilbert ($17.16 on Amazon) is available from most booksellers. I bought it at my local B&N store.

J.D. Salinger 1919-2010

If a girl looks swell when she meets you, who gives a damn if she's late? Nobody.

~J.D. Salinger, Catcher in the Rye

Isaac Asimov (1920-1992)

Jessie pulled out a small mirror and the silver-chased cosmetokit that Baley had bought her on the occasion of three birthdays before. The cosmetokit had several orifices and she used each in turn. All but the last spray were invisible. She used them with that finness of touch and delicacy of control that seems to be the birthright of women even at times of the greatest stress.

The base went on first in a smooth even layer that removed all shininess and roughness from the skin and left it with the faintly golden glow which long experiencw had taught Jessie was just the shade most suited to the natural coloring of her hair and eyes. Then the touch of tan along the forehead and chin, a gentle brush of rouge on either cheek, tracing back to the angle of the jaw; and a delicate drift of blue on the upper eyelids and along the earlobes. Finally there was the application of the smooth carmine to the lips. That involved the one visible spray, a faintly pink mist that glistened liquidly in the air, but dried and deepened richly on contact with the lips.

"There," said Jessie, with several swift pats at her hair and a look of deep dissatisfaction. "I suppose that will do."

Isaac Asimov, The Caves of Steel, 1953

January 2nd was the date Isaac Asimov considered as his birthday for lack of any official birth certificate documenting his birth. A scientist, humorist, humanist and one of my very favorite authors would have been 90 today if it weren't for his untimely death of AIDS (he was given a contaminated blood transfusion during heart surgery in the early 80s).

He was often criticized for his lack of substantial female heroines, yet he's given us the unforgettable Dr. Susan Calvin from his short robot stories. The paragraph above, from his space detective novel, The Caves Of Steel, shows that while he might not have had much direct experience with women in his earlier years (by his admission), he has definitely been watching us and paying attention.

The cosmetokit sound like a fun idea. Maybe it's the future of Bobbi Brown's palettes. Light blue earlobes? Why not? Would you?



Photo of Isaac Asimov: wikipedia.org
Fashion and Makeup picture by Bert Stern, Vogue 1964.

The Circle- Moominland Midwinter, Chasing Away The Darkness (And A scent to go with it)

"There are such a lot of things that have no place in summer and autumn and spring. Everything that's a little shy and a little rum. Some kinds of night animals and people that don't fit in with others and that nobody really believes in. They keep out of the way all the year. And then when everything's quiet and white and the nights are long and most people are asleep — then they appear."

— Too-Ticky in Moominland Midwinter

My original intention was to write about Hanukkah, as it is the part of my heritage that relates to the season and the holiday I and my family celebrate. But since I'm not even remotely religious and my interest in latkes and dreidels is fairly limited (the former is bad for the waistline, the latter doesn't make much sense other than as a lame cat toy), I started thinking in more general terms. The season has been celebrated since the dawn of mankind, long before my people started deep frying stuff and putting candles in the window. If you think of it, both practices have purpose: keeping warm and bringing in the light during the time of the year it's bitterly cold outside and the night seems to never end.

Hanukkah and many of the other seasonal holidays are about chasing the darkness away- both the real darkness and the metaphoric one that might settle in our hearts when we tend to cocoon, be less active (while eating those latkes) and start believing winter is never going to end. One of my favorite books of all time, Moominland Midwinter by Finnish author Tove Jansson, explores this theme beautifully.

Little Moomintroll wakes up unexpectedly in the middle of winter, while the rest of his family and almost all the other animals he's ever known are hibernating. The world as he knows it has changed. Moominland is suddenly a scary, dark and lonely place and the sun doesn't shine. Strange creatures have taken residence in the once-familiar places. Something grumpy lives under the sink, The Lady Of The Cold passes by endangering everyone's lives and the Groke takes away every last trace of warmth by sitting on it. At the same time, other creatures are determined to make the best of the situation. Little My has taken up sledging using Moominmamma tea tray and wearing her floral tea cozy, the Hemulen has gotten into skiing and Too-Ticky fishes under the ice and builds a huge bonfire to welcome back the sun. Everyone else just wants Moominmamma's stores of jam, preferably strawberry.

Moomintroll learn valuable lessons about the circle of life, death, overcoming fear and loneliness by living in the moment and finally realizes that at last that sometimes it's best "if things aren't so easy". Eventually most of the jam is gone, but the world awakens and Moominland comes back to life.

My scent of choice for curling up with this book, a blanket and a cat or two is Theorema by Fendi. Yes, it was discontinued, which fits in nicely with the theme of life, cycles and letting go. It's also a beautiful, warm and happy perfume that comforts and celebrates all that is good in the season and reminds us that the sun really comes back, eventually.


A full list of The Circle's participants, past and future:

Sunday - November 29th: Guest blogger Jane Sibbett opens the Circle

Monday - November 30th: Guest blogger Wendel Meldrum

Tuesday - December 1st: Roxana Villa

Wednesday - December 2nd: Guest blogger Ida Meister

Thursday - December 3rd: Memory and Desire, Heather Ettlinger

Friday - December 4th: Memory and Desire, Jason Ettlinger

Saturday - December 5th: Guest blogger Jade Shutes

Sunday - December 6th ST. NICOLAS DAY Eve and Roxana

Monday - December 7th: Indie Perfumes, Lucy Raubertas

Tuesday - December 8th: Scent Hive, Trish

Wednesday - December 9th: Olive Bites, Catherine Ivins

Thursday - December 10th: Perfume Smellin' Things, Tom

Friday - December 11th: Lillyella, Nicole

Saturday - December 12th: The Non-Blonde, Gaia

Sunday - December 13th: Portland Examiner, Donna Hathaway

Monday - December 14th: Xenotees, Noelle

Tuesday - December 15th: The Beauty You Love, Lee

Wednesday - December 16th: Confessions of a Pagan Soccer Mom, Mrs. B

Thursday - December 17th: The Artful Gypsy, Wendy Amdahl

Friday - December 18th: Perfume Shrine, Helg

Saturday - December 19th: Notes on Shoes, Cake & Perfume, Wendy

Sunday - December 20th: Grindstone Girl's Daily, Kathi Roussel

Monday - December 21st WINTER SOLSTICE: Perfume Smellin' Things, Beth

Tuesday - December 22nd: Guest blogger Davis Alexander

Wednesday - December 23rd: Guest blogger Greg Spalenka, Artist as Brand

Thursday - December 24th: Fringe, Dennice Mankarious

Friday - December 25th: Asking Leah, Leah

The Circle image by Roxana Villa
Illustration from Moominland Midwinter by Tove Jansson

Get Nina Garcia- For Free

Her latest book, that is.

Whenever someone gives away piles of free books it's usually a sign the book isn't doing too well on its own. In the case of Nina Garcia's latest book, The Style Strategy, I'm not surprised. The book was redundant and gave the feeling it was compiled from scraps and drafts for the previous two books (both were quite good), and it looks like people shopped smart and avoided buying it.

Now Nina Garcia (and her employer, Marie Claire magazine) has teamed up with Lancome for a joint promotional event at Saks 5th Avenue in NYC. If you RSVP to this event (November 12th at 5 PM) you will get The Style Strategy for free, as well as the latest Marie Claire issue and a couple of Lancome skin care samples. Ms. Garcia will be on hand to talk about whatever.

Maybe someone can ask her about the incestuous relationships between magazines and their advertisers and when if ever we'd get to see an honest review of beauty products in her magazine.

Freakin' Fabulous By Clinton Kelly- Book Review

The full name of Clinton Kelly's book is Freakin' Fabulous: How to Dress, Speak, Behave, Eat, Drink, Entertain, Decorate, and Generally Be Better than Everyone Else. Basically, the man with the neverending supply of argyle sweaters wants to give our lives a makeover in his own special way.


For our friends overseas, Clinton Kelly co-hosts the American version of What Not To Wear, and he is, indeed, fabulous. A big part of Clinton's charm comes from his easy manners and the way he handles himself with the guests on the show as well as with his co-host, Stacy London, who can be a bit abrasive at times (I love her, but she's as acquired taste). He manages to be witty and kind even when delivering the toughest love to the worst dressers, the ones you feel like hitting on the head with their Crocs.

The refreshing part about Clinton's approach to fabulousity is how it's not restricted to dressing up nicely and mixing patterns with neutrals. It starts with being respectful, well-mannered, semi-articulate and employing common sense in social situations. There's a full chapter devoted to grammar, with examples that would make you giggle even if you failed Language Arts ("If she weren't a hoochie mama, she'd get taken out to dinner more frequently"). Style books don't tend to teach you when and how to use the word whom correctly, and maybe that's part of a bigger problem. Clinton wants us to realize that rudeness and sloppiness (of language, manners and domestic habits) is not cool and not fabulous.

The book offers advice on tipping, eating asparagus, sending Thank You notes, making a vinaigrette and arranging flowers. Some of it is basic and some is a little more lifestyle-dependent. Hosting cocktail parties for 60 people isn't necessarily part of everyone's routine. About 90% of the recipes are meat-based (and the rest would still give you a coronary), and I'm not completely sure I'm interested in the decorating wisdom of a man whose living room features a six-foot antler chandelier painted in high-gloss black (he even shows a photo, in case you think he was kidding about it). But Freakin' Fabulous is a fun book to read and might even be an appropriate gift for the very young who are making first steps in the world and could use some guidance about the world outside their frat house.

Bottom line: You don't really need this book, but it'll give you something fun to read on a rainy afternoon at Barnes & Noble, without the shame-inducing guilty pleasure of leafing through People magazine.

Freakin' Fabulous by Clinton Kelly ($24.95, $16.47 on Amazon) is available from from every bookstore in North America.
photos: clintonkelly.com

The Style Strategy By Nina Garcia- A Book Review

Nina Garcia's two previous books, The Little Black Book Of Style and The One Hundred were fun to read as well as a very good resource for anyone looking for information and direction in building a stylish and enduring wardrobe. Her new book, The Style Strategy- A less is more approach to staying chic and shopping smart- a presumptuous shopping guide for tough economic times, lacks both the charm and, ironically, the practicality of its predecessors.

Let's start with the basic premise: the need for such guide. If you've read Garcia's other books, you already know what are the basics of a good and stylish wardrobe, how to accessorize in a smart way, what's worth splurging on, where you can fake it, and how and where to shop for vintage. In short: you already have a strategy and you know how to fill the gaps in your wardrobe in the most efficient way. So, what's the point of this book?

Unsurprisingly, The Style Strategy repeats a lot of the ground already covered in the older books. Do we really need a repeat of the LBD, trench coat, classic white shirt, dark denim, pencil skirt, tailored blazer and cashmere sweater chapter? Tim Gunn has already written a book and created a TV show around this. The magazines have printed countless of instant makeover articles about these items and we all know you can pair said cashmere sweater with the pencil skirt for work and your jeans on the weekend. And the LBD can be dressed up or down. Seriously. If you've been paying attention to the other books you already know how to shop smart and not waste money on unnecessary items. There's no need for the shrill and almost hysterical tone of the first chapters of The Style Strategy (not to mention spending the money on it...). It feels heavy-handed and hastily written and edited. There are too many repetitions and redundant paragraphs, and it looks like someone was a bit too frugal with editor hours.

Nina Garcia's famous sense of humor and subtle snark seems to have evaporated. Is it the economy? The move to Marie Claire and TLC? Who knows. But even Ruben Toledo's charming illustrations and the style icon quotes (everyone from Miss Piggy to Elizabeth Hurley and way way way too much Michael Kors) can't save this book from itself. It's even worse when Ms. Garcia tries to be inspirational. We don't pay her to be faux-deep and talk about priorities in life; I had to laugh at her advice to make a mall excursion with friends and family into a blissful bonding experience with those who matter most. Obviously, she's never been to a Jersey mall.

The wardrobe guidance is schizophrenic at times and a bit contradictory. What to keep? What to toss? She tells us to get rid of too trendy items that can date the look and be costumy, but also to save them and wait till the trend comes back and makes these clothes and accessories "vintage". I'm sorry, but one needs a really good inherent sense of style to know when these things work, and you rarely learn this from books. Some of the advice here would land you on "What Not To Wear" faster than you can say "Lady Gaga". Parachute pants? schoolgirl kilts? Seriously?

There's also an issue of lifestyle. In Nina Garcia's line of work, cocktail parties and making an impression in glitzy events are a regular occurrence. It makes sense that she would put the serious money into the dresses and shoes she wears on this occasions, while skimping (maybe, if you actually believe her, which is another problem with this book) on everyday items. However, most of us have slightly different needs. It's the regular pumps you wear to the office that need to be of the highest quality you can afford and would prove a smart investment. And I don't know about you, but I only have one "serious" cocktail dress. It's very pretty, from an indy designer and I've worn it exactly three times during the three years I've owned it (and it will forever be known as "the dress I wore when I met Tim Gunn"). On the other hand, I have many dresses that fall into the "day to night category" and have proven time and time again they were an excellent investment. For some reason, Ms. Garcia has completely skipped this category. She refers to casual dresses as "little extras", which makes me raise my eyebrow. If these are just "extras", what exactly are we supposed to wear?

I also have issues with her advice about allowing yourself to splurge on drugstore makeup and cosmetics. This attitude creates the exact problem The Style Strategy is supposed to tackle. There's nothing wrong with buying a drugstore lipstick here and there, but when this kind of impulse shopping becomes a habit and one finds herself with 38 bargain lipsticks but not even one amazing luxury item that makes her look and feels truly fabulous, there's something very wrong with the picture. I have no doubt Nina Garcia knows this, but her pampering advice is so scattered and all over the place she has completely missed the mark.

I've combed through the book over and over trying to find some piece of truly original advice. There's one: Top quality hosiery can make an outfit. There are great deals on luxury tights in the spring, so take advantage and stock up on the best brands during their sales.

There you have it.

Bottom line: Save your $22 and buy a Dior lip gloss.

Image: Hoovers- the apron dresses of the Great Depression, named after President Hoover. One of the few amusing fashion facts in the book.

The One Hundred by Nina Garcia- Book Review

Nina Garcia's Little Black Book Of Style was a fun read, though not the iconic fashion guide it aspired to be. Her second book, The One Hundred- A Guide To The Pieces Every Stylish Woman Must Own, might be even more ambitious, but is also delivers better.

Basically, it's a wardrobe checklist of one hundred items Ms. Garcia believes every woman must have in her closet. From the A-line dress to a zippered hoodie, she goes through classics and modern clothes (and also shoes, accessories, gadgets and beauty items), explains their importance, offers advice on how to wear them, where to shop and also tells stories and expands on their history, making this a more detailed and in-depth book than one would expect.

There's a lot of valuable information about brands, when to buy high-end and when it's OK to skimp, noteworthy designers, how to shop for vintage. The chapters are peppered with little quotes, bits of trivia and Nina Garcia's typical dry quips ("From time to time, you may see a girl wearing her black opaque tights as pants. There are, in fact, not"). It all contributes to making The One Hundred both informative and fun to read. As for her choice of these 100 items, for the most part I think she is spot on. Garcia names the cuts, styles and landmark designers (DVF, Pucci, Missoni) one should collect to build a stylish wardrobe. She doesn't forget the simple things, like basic white t-shirts (here she goes for Hanes), Spanx or sneakers (where she allows both Converse and Vans). I'm not sure what Champagne is doing as part of this guide and the beauty advice is flawed (only red, pale pink or black nail polish?). As a perfume nut, I'd rather ignore the recommendation to find a signature scent and stick to it. And, of course, I hate that fur is included (though she isn't against fake).

In the introduction, Nina Garcia reminds us to adapt each item according to individual style, body and personality. She states that there is no ultimate list and true style allows a woman to assert herself through her choices. Thus, we can make personal choices, edit according to our needs and make these items our own. I prefer my t-shirts and sweaters to have a v-neck, I don't own even one pair of khakis and I favor biker boots over cowboys. As long as one remembers to make such adjustments, the book can be a great resource.

The One Hundred by Nina Garcia ($21.95, about $15 on Amazon) is available from every bookseller online and in store. I bought it from my local Barnes & Noble.

Photo by Paulo Roversi

Get Positively Beautiful by Carmindy- Book Review

Carmindy's second book, Get Positively Beautiful, has been sitting in my pile of books for months now. I couldn't decide what to do with it. Obviously, it's a beauty book that was sent to me for review, so I was simply supposed to read it and let the world know what I think of it. But it wasn't that easy.

As a beauty book, Get Positively Beautiful is mediocre at best. The chapters focusing on makeup application and technique resemble the generic advice you find in magazines. Here's an example:

"For an eye that's ready for day or evening, lightly line the upper lash line with a pencil. Next, sweep a midtone shadow on the lid, and with an angled brush, smudge it under the lower lash line. Then brush a contour shadow in the crease and a highlight shade under the brow. Finish with mascara, and you're gorgeously good to go." (page 46)

Seriously?

The very few illustrations are of little help. The "custom eye looks" try to explain how to apply eye makeup for different eye shapes, but the drawings show almost the exact same eye for every category, so the point is lost.

What you do get in the book is lots of great photos of Carmindy herself, in action and just showing her very pretty face. She's gorgeous and likable, but I'm not sure how that serves the purpose.

So why can't I just come out and say "this book sucks"?

As a beauty/makeup manual it does, indeed, suck. But Get Positively Beautiful is trying to be more than that, and there's some merit to this approach. If you're familiar with Carmindy's work on the American version of What Not To Wear, you know she starts her makeup consultations by asking the woman in front of her "what do you see in the mirror?". She then works on showing her makeoveree just how naturally pretty are some of her features and encourages her to plat them up. Carmindy doesn't talk about hiding, fixing or camouflaging your flaws. Instead, she focuses on the pretty and the positive, making sure the women can still recognize themselves in the mirror.

Similarly, large parts of the book are dedicated to make one change the way she looks at herself in the mirror. It's sort of a "chicken soup for the soul" thing, full of positive affirmations and mantras. I admire the good intentions and the loving spirit and think we all could use some of this attitude for looking at ourselves and at the world. But is it effective? Would reading such a book 25 years ago had saved me some of the teen angst? Had I been able to look at myself and see more than a nose only a plastic surgeon could love? Maybe, but I have a hunch it takes more than statements in a book by a picture-perfect blonde makeup artist.

Get Positively Beautiful by Carmindy (list price is $21.99, available on Amazon for $14.29) can be found in any bookstore, online and offline. I got my copy as a PR freebie.

Bobbi Brown Makeup Manual- Book Review

Bobbi Brown Makeup Manual is the book I wish I had years ago. It would have saved me countless of makeup disasters, stupid purchases and the entire dark age known as the 80s. Of course, all these years of experimenting are also responsible for my beauty obsession and the thought process that started and created this blog, so maybe it was not all bad. In any case, this book is probably among the most useful makeup tools one can have.

Bobbi Brown's approach to beauty and makeup has always been about letting the woman shine, making her look like the best possible version of herself. Her makeup line makes sense- the colors are pretty, flattering, wearable, and will never make one look like Katie Price or Shauna Sands. The great news is Bobbi Brown's latest endeavour, the Bobbi Brown University, a new program that will encompass the in-house training for the company’s artists plus college-level classes she developed for Montclair State and her alma mater, Emerson College. It would be fabulous to see more and more makeup artists trained according to Bobbi Brown and less of the parrot school of color application.

I got to hear Bobbi speaking about her vision, her school and her book a couple of weeks ago at an industry event, organized by Makeup Artist Magazine. It was a fun cocktail party for makeup artists and industry professionals which let everyone a chance to mix and mingle, meet Bobbi Brown and ask her questions. I brought my copy of the book and got her to sign it, which excited me quite a bit (I'm a nerd and have a serious thing for autographed books).

The book itself covers everything one needs and wants to know, from color choices to application techniques. There are thorough explanations of the types of brushes, including tips on choosing the right ones. Different skin types and complexions get the proper attention and coverage (I especially feel validated about a couple of my observation regarding my own skin tone and what's right for it), and the focus is always on working with nature and not against it.

The detailed instructions for everything from the proper way for applying foundation, covering blemishes and doing a dramatic smoky eye are absolutely priceless. Some of the photographs are breath-taking (you'd recognize many of them from Bobbi's various collections. They look so much better in high quality print and you get to appreciate the artistry) and would make you head straight to your mirror and start playing. The wealth of information is wonderful and is interesting and useful enough to hold the attention of even a seasoned makeup user.

I liked that there's a section about lifestyle and nutrition as the base for every beauty routine. What you eat and how you live shows in your face. Just look at Kate Moss or Amy Winehouse and then compare them to 51 year old Bobbi Brown herself.

I admit I only skimmed the chapters about becoming a makeup artist, and since I'm not really in that game, I can't comment about its usefulness for an industry pro. The history of makeup and the who's who sections were fun, though.

Bobbi Brown Makeup Manual ($36 retail price, listed on Amazon.com for $20.16) is available from bookstores online and offline. My copy was a PR freebie.

Image: bobbibrown.com

Yves Saint Laurent: Style - Book Review

Yves Saint Laurent: Style is the companion book to a traveling exhibition of the late designer's work. I guess that's the reason it was released as a paperback and not in a coffee book format, which would have suited it well.

Yves Saint Laurent: Style introduces the main themes and inspiration for YSL's designs, but does not follow a chronological order (though there is a chronological index of designs as an appendix). I loved seeing the drawing and sketches with the attached fabric swatches by themselves as well as next to photos of the actual dresses. Each image in the book is numbered and accompanied with a short description of the outfit, material, show/season and in some cases even the names of celebrities who ordered it, from the Duchess of Windsor to Catherine Deneuve.

While this is probably not the ultimate reference book for Saint Laurent's designs (and to be fair, it was not meant to be) due to the way the information is presented, it's still a pleasure to leaf through and sigh at the beauty of the dresses. It makes me sorry I was not born in the right time or place (and let's face it: income bracket) to see and live this kind of glamor.

The book was created in collaboration with Fondation Pierre Bergé–Yves Saint Laurent, and the autors' names are missing from the front cover and only appear inside. The text was actually written by Florence Müller, a fashion historian (probably one of the coolest professions ever) and the curator of the exhibition and Hamish Bowles, of Vogue fame.

Yves Saint Laurent: Style ($50 list price) is available for $31.50 on Amazon. I received it as a PR freebie.

Image: Yves Saint Laurent Mondrian-inspired sack dress on metmuseum.org

Book Review: Wishful Drinking by Carrie Fisher

Carrie Fisher is what we call nowadays a celebuspawn (think Rumer Willis and Peaches Geldof). Except that being born in the 1950s meant she got to become Elizabeth Taylor's stepdaughter and spent quality time with Cary Grant. Even the Jolie-Pitts would never be able to top that. These stories alone made her memoir, Wishful Drinking, a book I really wanted to read.

The problem with Wishful Drinking is that it's mostly the material from Carrie Fisher's one-woman show by the same name, and not really an in-depth, tell-all autobiography. It's a lot shorter and breezier you would expect from a book that covers not only an unusual Hollywood childhood and coming of age but also two marriages (to Paul Simon and to a gay man), the Star Wars trilogy and Fisher's years of struggling with addiction and mental illness.

I can't help it: My favorite part was family saga and stories about Carrie Fisher's parents, Eddie Fisher and Debbie Reynolds and long parade of step-parents. Ancient Hollywood gossip is infinitely better than TMZ and Perez Hilton, especially when told by a very witty and often hilarious insider. The Star Wars part felt a bit rushed and too obligatory: What did she wear under the white dress? (gaffer's tape), how did she feel about the iconic hairstyle? (it made her look fat). And then there are the heartbreaks, Paul Simon and the illness, taking up about a third of the book and in some places a bit glossed over.

I can't help feeling that Carrie Fisher and her story deserve better than a quick read in one sitting, which is all the book provides. Her first novel, the fictionalized autobiography Postcards From The Edge was much more satisfying.

The Little Black Book Of Style by Nina Garcia- A Book Review

I didn't expect to like Nina Garcia's book, The Little Black Book of Style. As a matter of fact, I bought the book months ago but haven't touched it and let the pile of books sitting on top of it grow so tall until Miss Lizzy Kitten knocked them all down every time she jumped on top. The truth is that while I love Project Runway, Nina Garcia isn't the reason. She doesn't annoy me nearly half as much as Michael Kors does, but honestly, aren't we all there for Tim Gunn?

I tried to remember anything special she wore on the show, but only came up with "sleeveless", "black" and " an oversized necklace". My impression was that she's always well put together, but doesn't steal the show, which is probably a sign of both good taste and common sense. When you think of it, the 42 year old future fashion director of Marie Claire (Elle Magazine gave her the boot recently) is a pretty good source for style guidance. And she's a proud non-blonde, despite the perfect highlights.

The book puts some flesh on the glossy image. There are a few biographical notes from her Colombian childhood and New England prep school education. We get a glimpse of the elements that shaped Ms. Garcia's fashion sense, and I found myself becoming fond of her, despite her endorsement of fur. Probably because I share many of her ideas regarding style: wear things that fit you perfectly and make you look good while ignoring ugly trends, don't be a fashion victim, don't play safe unless the occasion demands it, go for interesting accessories that speak to you personally, mix things up and buy lots and lots of shoes.

The book expands on all of the above, explains the basics every woman needs (very similar to Tim Gunn's ten essentials: trench coat, cashmere sweater, the LBD, a well-cut dark pair of jeans, a white shirt and more), speaks about finding inspiration (actually, I'm getting fed-up with the Audrey Hepburn talk. Yes, she was amazing. Yes, she was gorgeous. Yes, she was the chicest of them all. But, in reality, unless your name is Natalie Portman, you can't pull it off).

I loved Nina Garcia's definition of a fashion victim (besides her obsession with the "it" bag, a concept she and I both despise): "...count the designer pieces she's wearing. She'll usually help you out by putting the labels on conspicuous display". It reminded me of this photo from two weeks ago (courtesy of Hollywood Rag):


There's some good advice about dressing right for different occasions (Q: What to wear for a wedding? A: Don't be a bridesmaid), she deciphers the mystery of event dress code (what exactly is "creative black tie" or "smart casual"?), encouragement to invest in lingerie and cliff notes of fashion history (I wish this section of the book was longer and deeper, as I find it more inspiring than talking about Uma Thurman's white shirt in Pulp Fiction). The part I found most useless, though, was the brief interviews with designers and other prominent fashion figures (blahblahblah confidence blahblahblah be yourself blahblahblah Audrey Hepburn blahblahblah black turtleneck. You've heard it all before).

Bottom line: a fun read that actually makes sense. A fabulous gift for the young or for yourself if you've been stuck in a rut for too many years and need to find a new path. Worth reading if you find yourself having to pass some time at Barnes & Noble on a rainy afternoon.

The Little Black Book of Style is available from every book seller. I got mine from Amazon (cover price is $17.95, you'll probably find it for less).

Perfumes: The Guide by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez- A Book Review

The amount of mental energy I've spent over the last three weeks deliberating if I should review the book or not, could have been spent on something far more productive or inspiring. Like catching up on email or organizing my shoes by color. At first, even before actually buying the book, just from being aware of the concept and reading the marketing hype, I already knew (more or less) what to expect and have concluded that while I was certainly interested to read it, it was not "A definitive guide to the world of perfume" (direct quote of the back cover). It's a book of opinions about scents. How is it different than any of the major perfume blogs?

The answer to that is approximately $20. That's what you pay for the book (if you're a B&N member), while we, bloggers, give our opinion for free.

My original suspicion was correct. There's no way one could refer to this book as a definite guide to anything but the authors' tastes and preferences. While Dr. Turin is highly educated in the science and structure of perfume, and Ms. Sanchez has obviously smelled her way around the block, in the end of the day, their reviews are not a perfume encyclopedia. I had a little chat about it with Marina of Perfume Smellin' Things, where I told her that I'd just as much be happy to read a book that collected the best reviews by a bunch of bloggers. Now that I think of it, such a book could be extremely fun to read, and probably very educating, considering the different angles and perspective we all bring to the table.

Entertaining is a key word here. The book is a fun read, full of quips and at its best, razor-sharp observations. At its lower points, the snark crosses into personal insults. I'm not one of those who took offense when some of my favorite scents (Miel de Bois and Mechant Loup) got panned just as I didn't gloat or feel especially validated when scents I dislike were dismissed (save for one little moment of schadenfreude at the expense of D&G Light Blue and Donna Karan's Cashmere Mist, two bestsellers that have never worked on my skin). I would probably have been less amused had my two favorite perfumers, Andy Tauer and Vero Kern, and their creations, received a similar treatment to the one poor Mona di Orio got. But how seriously can you take a bad review from the people who wrote odes to Tommy Girl, Beyond Paradise and the barfalicious Missoni? All I can say is that MdO Carnation, which I have always liked, was just bumped several notches up in my "to buy" list. I wish the authors had remembered the difference between a big, cynical company that releases scents created by a committee and tweaked according to focus groups and the work of independent perfumers who put their hearts in their bottles. You can hate the juice, just don't take it out on the artist.

That said, I'm glad that Dr. Turin has made it a point to drag into the spotlight the problem of cheap and sloppy reformulations, like the ones that killed my beloved Lauren and brought down the mighty house of Caron. People still waste money on these perfumes and they need to be aware that the juice is not what it used to be. The companies are trying to cover up and deny, but a credible voice saying that the Emperor is not only naked, but also has a hairy back is what we all needed.

Perfumes: The Guide is available from Amazon and Amazon.uk, as well as from just about every bookseller. I bought my copy at Barnes & Noble.

Aphrodite did a bad bad thing: Gods Behaving Badly by Marie Phillips- A Book Review

I knew I was going to like this book when one page into it I read the following:

"Are you talking to me?" said the tree. It had a faint Australian accent.
"Yes" said Artemis. "I am Artemis". If the tree experienced any recognition, it didn't show it. "I'm the goddess of hunting and chastity," said Artemis. Another silence. Then the tree said, "I'm Kate. I work in mergers and acquisitions for Goldman Sachs."

It had a Douglas Adams feel, only sexier.

Gods Behaving Badly by UK author Marie Phillips is a cute book that would give anyone a delightful weekend. Or a good reason to come home early and not even turn the TV on. You don't have to be a mythology nerd like me to enjoy reading what the Greek gods have been up to since their fall from grace, how Apollo has made a career in daytime TV, what use Aphrodite has found for her famous skills and why Eros has become a born-again Christian.

There are also a couple of humans in the book, heroes and anti-heroes, life, death and the after-life, and a new look at London's Underground system.


I don't know why they made a different cover for the American edition (left). I much prefer the British one.

Art: Aphrodite by Ron Hutt as appeared on yatzer