Thierry Mugler- A*Men

I don't have the slightest idea why and how a woody gourmand men's cologne centered around chocolate and coffee has become one of the most controversial scents of modern times (just search the database of basenotes.net if you're unfamiliar with the issue). Then again, the decision to label this sweet and warm concoction a masculine is a bit questionable, though not more than Guerlain's Habit Rouge.

Mugler launched A*Men in 1996 as the male version of Angel, which might explain a thing or two. Personally, I can't deal with Angel. The rotting fruit note turns my stomach and makes me want to tell whoever is wearing it that she doesn't smell nearly as good as she thinks. I've heard Angel can actually be quite nice if applied very (very!) sparingly. Unfortunately, I have yet to meet an Angel fan that can restrict herself from bathing in its alleged yumminess.

A*Men is free of fruit, so it's all chocolate, caramel and coffee. To my nose it's closer to Innocent (which I love) than to the monstrosity of the original Angel. There's smokiness here, as a concession to masculine notes, and a cheerful herbal thread of bergamot-lavender-mint, though it took me ages of exploring to recognize the latter. It wears beautifully by itself and can be layered with orange scents. It's thicker than Hermes Elixir de Marveilles and lacks its luxurious feel, so this is more of a guilty pleasure. Then again, chocolate is always like that.  A*Men is easy and fun to wear as long as one likes velvety gourmands and has a sense of humor about some of the more colorful expressions on Basenotes.

In our home, I'm the one who wears this Thierry Mugler creation. The husband is not a fan of sweet or foody scents on his skin but enjoys them on me. Now that I think of it, I'm not sure I ever told him specifically that this is supposed to be a masculine fragrance. I doubt he'd believe me, anyway.

A*Men by Thierry Mugler ($57, 1.7 oz) is available from Sephora and most department stores.

Image: perfectcoffeeatwork.com

Thierry Mugler Innocent

I catch whiffs of Thierry Mugler's original Angel here and there. At the mall, while standing in line to enter the theater, coming and going randomly in NYC, at the Paris Metro. I have yet to enjoy smelling Angel, not to mention how lengthy exposure to it makes me want to grab the wearer by the neck and tell her she doesn't smell half as good as she imagines. I can't help it. There's something about this fruit-caramel-chocolate-patchouli that turns my stomach.

Innocent by Mugler is sometimes called Angel Innocent. It's definitely related to the original and not just because of the star emblem on the cap, but I wouldn't call it a flanker, either. Innocent has enough life and character on its own, without the circus freak that is Angel. The fruit notes that are so dominant in Angel are much more subdued and fleeting here. It also lacks the infamous chocolate-covered dirt of the patchouli (I usually enjoy choco-chouli, just not in the presence of fruit on steroids). Instead, my skin brings out the almond-meringue-honey-vanilla facet, making it a very smooth and milky gourmand. The almond here isn't sharp and marzipan-like. Instead it reminds me of my mother's butter and almond cookies (I really should dig out the recipe). It's on the sexy-but-comforting side, probably because of the abundance of sweet musk in the base.

I surprise myself with how much I enjoy Innocent. It's not an interesting scent and it usually feels like a guilty pleasure more than a sophisticated choice. Yet somehow I nearly panicked when I realized that the mini bottle I bought seven or eight years ago was getting dangerously low. Feeling only a small pang of guilt, I ordered a full sized bottle. It would last me for my next two or three lives, but at least I know I'll always have some for those winter days spent between the couch and a blanket.

Innocent by Thierry Mugler ($66, 1.7 oz) is available from Nordstrom, Sephora and many other conventional stores. A little googling reveals that many online discounters sell it for less than half the retail price.

Innocent 2004 perfume ad: paperpursuits.com

Angelic

Once upon a time it was 1992. Everyone and their sister were wearing Calvin Klein : Either Escape or Eternity (their mothers were still wearing Poison). Then came Thierry Mugler and created his chocolate infused fruity-floral, which became the scent of the decade and stank up elevators around the globe.

Try as I might, I can't think of another gourmand fragrance that gained this much popularity prior to Angel. I actually think that this was what started the trend (epidemic?) of "yummy". Perfumes used to smell sexy, seductive, pretty, clean, dangerous... Not edible. Can you imagine one of the great houses of yore creating a scent that would make you think of fudge?

The "yummy" factor makes the Angel wearer want to bathe in it. Hence the very successful line of Angel bath and body products. And the amount of the stuff sprayed by the fans. Now, I'm the last person who can complain about strong perfumes and the amount sprayed. I love my fragrances, I want to smell them on myself for hours and I want you to smell them on me. And, I expect compliments on my good taste. But even I have to put the limit somewhere, and making the entire room, movie theater or subway car smell like this chocolatey melon and peach concoction is criminal.

Angel has spawned countless imitators and several legitimate offspring. I'm actually fond of Angel Innocent, because it lacks the harsh fruity opening with the weird chocolate, and instead there's a honeyed musky drydown that works quite nicely on my skin. The amber helps as well.

Angel haters can be divided to two groups. The first is the anti patchouli people. I'm not one of them. While there are many examples of patch gone wild, I'm more likely to enjoy it. I belong to the group who recoils at the fruity blast of the opening. Melon and peach are among the notes I dislike most and never work for me. It's everything I dislike in a fruity floral, and no amount of chocolate can help it.

This is why, upon reading Colombina's review of Il Profumo's Chocolat Frais I wasn't all that thrilled at the chance of trying it on. But I did have the sample and I do write a beauty blog, so there I was, applying this fragrance to my skin...

The bad news is that Columbina is right. It's another Angel clone, from the first pineapple note (funny how often a chocolate note turns pineapple. Some smell it in Tom Ford's Black Orchid, while I have no idea what they're talking about, but I fully get it here). It develops very much like Angel and gives the same foody vibe.

The good news is that it's not as bad or as fruity. It's a kinder, gentler Angel. When the pineapple goes away, the feel of it is closer to Angel Innocent, even if not as musky and not as long lasting. It's an okay fragrance, really.

The only question is: Why?

Out of This World- Thierry Mugler Alien

I've written before how some of the most popular and heavily praised fragrances (Prada, Cashmere Mist, Chanel Chance) don't work for me. I either dislike them instantly, or they dislike my body's chemistry and just stink.

On the other hand, some of my most favorite perfumes are a bit left-of-center when it comes to popularity. Like my long-standing love affair with Tiffany (some say it's very old ladyish, but I've been using it bottle after bottle ever since I was 22).

One of the most maligned scents of the last 12 months is Alien by Thierry Mugler. So many reviewers hated it with the kind of passion I save for Escada perfumes. It seems that a lot of people can't stand intense jasmine notes. Also, it's very strong, dark and uncompromising. I admit that just from sniffing the bottle I wouldn't notice the sexy treat that awaited me within.

The bottom line is that jasmine can work for me. It has depth and embracing qualities that for someone else would be too overwhelming, but work perfectly on my fragrance-eating skin. I wore it all winter, sometimes even for daytime and have gotten many compliments. It's different and sexy, but I do understand why it's not for everyone. As the weather gets warmer I'll see how often I reach for it. Maybe for evening.

A lot has been said about the bottle. Like the fragrance, it's different and immediately recognizable. The alien theme is strong in its design, and I've read a comment or two comparing it to a Vorlon encounter suit from Babylon 5. There is some truth in this. I might be as girly as they come, but I'm also a sci-fi nerd in disguise. I named one of my cats after Ambassador Kosh, so having him (the Vorlon, not my orange tabby) immortalized in a great perfume bottle is very nice.

For the non-nerds among you, here's Ambassador Kosh in his encounter suit. You can see and compare for yourself.


November 2007 : I can't believe the change of heart I've had about this one. Jasmine has become my nose's archnemesis, unless it's so well-blended I can't pick it up by itself. Alien started smelling harsh, artificial and skanky and the sillage was a major headache trigger. I don't know if it's my nose, my skin or just becoming more particular about perfume, but after avoiding the bottle for a year, I ended up selling it and couldn't be happier to see it go.