Jil Sander Woman 2

Apparently vintage Jil Sander perfumes were chypres. Jil Sander Woman III was a robust one in the classic fashion, with a full floral heart and a gorgeous rich drydown of oakmoss-patchouli-vetiver. Its predecessor, Woman II (launched in 1982 or 1983, depending on the source), is a greener chypre, with an aldehydic opening and a hyacinth-galbanum heart (or at least that's what my nose says) similar to Chanel No. 19. Seriously, every time I wear Jil Sander 2 there's a moment I get a whiff of myself and try to remember when I sprayed No. 19 and what version, only to remind myself it's actually Woman II.

Later in the drydown the mean green starts sharing the limelight with a very dry wood base. I couldn't find even a shred of reliable information about the actual notes, but I'd go out on a limb and guess cedar and probably also some really good sandalwood, only without the sweet creamy quality we often associate with it. Would it be a complete blasphemy if I said that more often than not, I actually prefer this Jil Sander creation to Chanel 19? It's friendlier, for one thing, and softer, maybe not as leathery as the vintage Chanel.

Smelling and wearing Jil Sander Woman 2 reminds and reinforces the huge loss of real chypres to the world of perfumes. As far as I know, Woman II and III were discontinued long before the long hands of IFRA killed the genre. They probably fell out of favor when this style was labeled "dated" by the patron saints of fruity-florals. I would also guess that nowadays bitter greens wouldn't be marketed under the name Woman, and indeed, I'm pretty sure Woman 2 would smell fabulous on a man, though I have yet to allow the husband anywhere near my vintage bottles.

Fashion photo by Arthur Elgort for Vogue, September 1982.
Bottle of Jil Sander Woman 2 by me.

Things I Don't Get

1. A pink puffy vest by Jil Sander? Why would anyone want it?
Yes, I understand that Jil Sander, the designer, has more or less lost the rights to her own name. She now designs for Japanese Uniqlo stores under the +J brand, which probably means she needs to come up with items that would appeal to a certain audience. But wouldn't shoppers who are looking for Jil Sander designs be fans of sleek and sophisticated urban style and not Barbie on ice?

Can anyone shed some light?



2. This Missoni ensemble. Don't get me wrong. I'm a huge Missoni fan and find their clothes timeless and super versatile. I wear them year-round and pair them with just about anything and everything. But here, even the model looks miserable.

Photos and info: WWD

I Do Not Need Another Pair Of Black Boots

I can't stop looking at the Barneys newsletter you see above. These Jil Sander boots are perfect.

I Do Not Need Another Pair Of Black Boots. I Do Not Need Another Pair Of Black Boots. I Do Not Need Another Pair Of Black Boots. I Do Not Need Another Pair Of Black Boots. I Do Not Need Another Pair Of Black Boots. I Do Not Need Another Pair Of Black Boots. I Do Not Need Another Pair Of Black Boots. I do not need...

The Lost Perfume Series: Jil Sander Woman III

Launched in 1986, four years before the more popular (and just as discontinued) No. 4, Jil Sander Woman III was an elegant chypre, somewhat out of place in the age of Giorgio and Obsession. The notes: orange blossom, hyacinth, nutmeg, angelica, ylang ylang, sandalwood, patchouli, pepper, coriander, oakmoss, cedar, musk, tonka and vetiver, do not tell the entire story,but they hint of a refined air.



While No. 4 is much more femme and cleavagy, Woman III is greener. It can be equally at home in a pant suit as it is in black velvet. Some days it verges on soapy, but never really goes there, which I'm very happy about. However it was clean enough to wear in summer without overwhelming, even if chypres are more traditionally fall scents, probably because of their complexity and the richness rendered by oakmoss.

Despite the name, Jil Sander Woman III could probably be worn by men. It's well-blended and restrained enough to not be so bold and make the grand entrance of Paloma Picasso, another chypre from the same era that shares some of the notes (hyacinth, coriander, patchouli, oakmoss) but is all red lipstick and drama. I get quite a bit of peppery spice and very little, if any, of the floral heart. The drydown has enough bitter vetiver to satisfy me and give it a unisex kick.

Woman III has vanished from shelves and stores some years ago, probably because of the restrictions on oakmoss and the fact that the franchise of Jil Sander perfumes is now owned by Coty, a house that traded off its history and glory for Celine Dion, the Beckhams and Jennifer Lopez. I was extremely lucky to find a sealed bottle, still in its cellophane wrap, on eBay. It's an EDT with a great lasting power and considerable depth, which makes lust after the idea of an extrait, even if I don't even know that it was ever produced. If you search well enough, there are still some tester bottles online and the Perfumed Court has two regular new 100 ml bottles , if you're willing to part with $370.

Art: Moonlight by Pamela Sukhum from Vinings Gallery
Fashion: Jil Sander Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear from Style.com

Watered Down - Jil Sander Pure

Once upon a time there was a Jil Sander fragrance named Pure. It was created in 1979 (not a great year for perfumery, if you look at this list), and boasted an impressive list of notes:

Top: Aldehyde, Galbanum, Coriander, Bergamot, Leaves

Heart: Rose, Jasmin, Carnation, Ylang-Ylang, Gardenia, Muguet, Tuberose

Base: Oakmoss, Styrax, Leather, Benzoin, Vetiver, Cedar

This was, of course, too good to be true (I'm guessing, since I've never actually sniffed it), and this perfume was discontinued and forgotten, until 2003 when a new fragrance was launched under this very same name.

I found two descriptions of this scent. FragranceNet simply calls it "a crisp, watery scent", while according to Neiman Marcus, it's "A blow of freshness: pure air molecule, cyclamen flower, fresh petal jasmine, lush sap."

I happened upon a bottle of the shower gel and gave it a try. The good news is that it doesn't make me itch like crazy. Seriously, I'm allergic to many a soap, so not wishing for someone to come and flay me is a very good thing. The bad news is that those descriptions of air and water are quite accurate. Pure smells like nothing. It makes me think of those HR memos to employees about not wearing perfume to work so they wouldn't offend their sensitive coworkers. This is the most politically correct fragrance. It makes me want to marinate myself in Miel de Bois.

The Mystery of Jil Sander no.4

(from Jil Sander's fall/winter 2001-2002 collection)

Long before I was introduced to the world of niche fragrance, my sophisticated scent was Jil Sander no. 4. It had the mystique of Jil Sander's fashion line, clean lines, black clothes, flattering cuts that made sense (why, oh why, oh why can't we have this aesthetic back?) and evoked an unmistakable urban style.

Years later, I still love it. It might not be as complex or as intriguing as other scents in my collection, but it's as pretty and elegant as it ever was. It starts a little sharp and spicy, declaring its presence as a very dressy scent, but it softens quickly. It's said to have fruity notes somewhere, but I don't get any of the usual suspects and don't smell any of the common fruity-floral elements. If there's a peach in there it's very well hidden, so even I can't frown on it.

The flowers have a spicy, exotic oriental feel to them. There's no playful girliness there and wearing flip-flops while you have this scent on would feel very inappropriate. It demands heels and a nice outfit, preferably something black and chic.

The drydown is a sexy vanilla-sandalwood blend. It stays close to the skin and lasts for several joyous hours.

Here's the mystery: As far as I can tell, No. 4 is still very much in production. Jil Sander fragrances belong nowadays to Coty, but their website is a marketing disaster and gives absolutely no information. Other than the impression that they're very proud of their J. Lo line. I've been searching high and low for official information, but didn't get very far. OsMoz has a short entry and lists the notes, but that's about it. No product range or any other info. Basenotes offers even less that that.

The mystery deepens when you actually want to buy a bottle. Sephora no longer carries it, and neither do the major department stores (at least online). However, it is widely available at any online discount store, and you can even find the matching shower gel and lotion (I also have the wonderful body balm which has become somewhat elusive lately). Once upon a time there was also a pure parfum, but this has long been discontinued. I dearly hope that the EdP isn't destined to go the same route.

The design house of Jil Sander has changed hands a couple of time in recent years, which resulted in loss of prestige. It seems that none of the owners and people in charge cared enough. It would be a huge shame if a beautiful and classic perfume disappears just because no one at some marketing department can be bothered.

A Few of My Favorite Things (that are not whiskers on kittens)

I was going through my little collection of favorite perfumes, trying to figure out if there was some common denominator or if there was a way to tell what kind of fragrance I would like and what I wouldn't. I can't say that I've found a definite answer, but I decided to list all of my current favorites. I'm not linking to other sites this time, because there are just too many. What I can say is that I buy my fragrances offline and online at LuckyScent.com, Sephora, Neiman's, Saks, Bloomie's, FragranceNet.com and Perfume1.com. For what's categorized as "department store perfumes" I highly recommend checking the last two first, as their prices are significantly lower. I always go for the EDP, as I like the smell to linger. This list doesn't include everything I have or things I used to love but fell out of grace, just the most favorite ones, for now.
Reccomendations based on this would be gladly accepted.

Kingdom by Alexander McQueen- This is an odd one. I think I bought it because in a way, it reminded me (don't laugh) of Colors by Benetton, that I wore at 18 for special dates with my boyfriend. Those are some bittersweet memories and so is this fragrance. It's drier than what I usually go for and requires a certain mood. I usually wear it at night and only recently discovered that it's actually better in hot weather than it is in winter. Heat brings out a very sensual element in this one. Decent lasting power.

Tiffany (the original one, by Tiffany, of course)- I was introduced to it about 14 years ago by my friend E, who has since moved on to other fragrances. I bought it for myself in the summer of 1993 just before I met my husband, and have been wearing it ever since. It used to be the one I wore for our special dates and has stayed as a special favorite of us both. I know that many think of it as an "old lady smell", but for me it's anything but. It was perfect when I was 22 and it suits me just as well today. It's become so much a part of me that I can't even analyze the notes or anything else about it. It's one of my signature scents and I wear it easily both days and nights. Excellent staying power.

Eternity (yeah, Calvin Klein)- A favorite daytime fragrance that I've been wearing on and off since 1993. It's a sunny and happy scent, lasts for many hours.

Panthere (Cartier)- Another signature scent that seems to have been made especially for me. Like Tiffany, it's an ambery floral, but it's very very different. It's both elegant and sexy (very), I prefer it as a night time fragrance and has been wearing it since late 1995 or early 1996. It's the perfume I wore for my wedding and all through my honeymoon, which is probably why my husband adores it.

Neroli by L'Occitane- This is a much maligned fragrance (just read the reviews on makeupalley.com and see what I mean). People either love it or hate it with a white hot passion. I used to be obsessed with it, now I just love it. I never fail to get compliments when I'm wearing it. The first notes are indeed pretty harsh, but it soon changes into a spicy-sweet beauty. I wish it had more sillage, but whatever does stay close to the skin is wonderful, and my only complaint is that I wish that it lasted a lot longer.

Jil Sander No. 4- I've been wearing this complex and very layered scent for special nights during the last 6 years, and can never get enough of it. It's deep, rich and sexy, the florals are subtle and the woody-oriental base has both a lovely, lingering sillage and a strong staying power. I love the elegance and sophistication. And it calls to be worn with black, well-cut clothes. It's one of my most beloved signature scents.

Sensi (Armani)-I've heard that it's being discontinued, but I can't get it confirmed. I'd be very sorry if it's true, because I love this jasmine, wood and vanilla combination. It's sensual and elegant. A cute cold weather scent with excellent staying power.

So Pretty (Cartier)- I'm quite sure that this one is on its way to be discontinued, which is a shame. It's one of those classics, a beautiful floral with an almost animalic base. Impeccably elegant, needs to be worn with something fabulous.

Le Baiser du Dragon (Cartier)- Very different than my usual fare, not even a hint of vanilla. Very woody, but with a hard to describe twist. It's bold and rich, full of vetiver and patchouli. It's one of the few reasons to enjoy colder weather, as it's so perfect for fall. Stays on for hours.

Grand Amour (Annick Goutal)- Though different than Cartier's So Pretty, in my mind they are grouped together. Classic elegance, very French. It works for me both for day and for night, but never in jeans. Moderate staying power, lovely sillage for as long as the scent is there.

Quel Amour! (Annick Goutal)- A surprising choice for me, as the fruity element is quite prominent. But those are lovely red fruit (yet I dislike Goutal's Petite Cherie), the official notes says something about currants, but to me it's pomegranate beautifully blended with rose and peony. It's an intoxicating sunny fragrance with an incredible staying power on my skin.

Eau d'Hadrien (Annick Goutal)- Lemon and Cypress, fun and uncomplicated. Wonderful to wear first thing in the morning before doing stuff around the house. It has no staying power unless layered with something else. My little discovery is how good it is combined with Serge Luten's Un Bois Vanille.

Nuit du Hadrien (Annick Goutal)- Hadrien's grown-up, wickedly sexy sister. It's definitely very ambery and lasts much longer. I think I'll be wearing it quite often for fall mornings.

Black Cashmere (Donna Karan)- A fairly recent discovery.

Lea St. Barth Extreme- My journey with Lea is documented here and here.

Loukhoum (Keiko Mecheri)- Again, I've already raved about this one.

Monyette Paris- Everyone is more beautiful when wearing this. One of my staples this summer, as I've predicted here.

Serge Lutens- Un bois Vanille and Cedre. Another new love. Both aren't very summery, yet I'm already wearing them often. I foresee many more Serges in my future.

Valentino V Absolu- I wore the original Valentino when I was 20. I loved it despite the no staying power (it was most likely the EDT. I didn't know better in those days). V Absolu doesn't have the greatest staying power ever (I dread to think how long the regular V would last on my skin), but what is left close to the skin is a heady mix of sweet and citrusy wood, enriched with delicate vanilla. It's a day scent, especially because of the citrus and fig top notes. I love the way it reacts with my skin on a sunny day.

Sage Machado perfume oils: Onyx, Moonstone- A very recent discovery. I have yet to buy them, but for now I'm relishing the samples. They are very similar, but Onyx has more pronounced coconut note. There's something about those two that reminds me of a favorite shampoo from my childhood- Flex by Revlon. It was crap on the hair but I was addicted to its smell. I need to decide if I really love this or if it's a passing summer whim. Wonderful staying power, and for now I'm enamored.


The Heart is Deceitful Above All things (Yosh)- A stupid name for a very beautiful scent. Wood, something earthy and vanilla make this one indescribable. I'm still using the sample, but the decision has already been made. I need a full bottle.

Goldmund by Dorissima - Another very new discovery. My Luckyscents order is going to include this one as well. It's soft and complex, has some of my favorite notes (rose, vanilla, sandalwood and soft musk), doesn't resemble anything else that I have or even know and makes me feel pretty. That alone is a good reason to wear it year round. Moderate staying power, as far as I can tell, but haven't tested it enough yet to know for sure.