Showing posts with label Cinquième Sens. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cinquième Sens. Show all posts

Thursday, March 26, 2009

Reflection and Self-Reinvention Part 4: In which I take a perfume class


My secondary education years were long and twisted. I started out as a fresh faced English major and ended up in business school, where my final project/thesis was something about an information system for dairy farms. A couple of years in the real world have sent me back to school, this time for math education (I couldn't let all those years of advanced calculus go to waste). The point is that in my world, taking a class had a lot more to do with econometrics than with having fun.

I got a chance to participate in a two day introduction to perfumery techniques class and the experience was one of the most joyous I can recall. Imagine: learning and immersing yourself in one of your greatest passions while surrounded with people who feel exactly the same way. I felt like the luckiest person in the world.

Cinquième Sens, the French perfumery school has opened a branch in New York City and offering a growing variety of classes and programs for those of us who want to know more about the perfume industry, understand the market, the products and more than anything else: what it's all about. Last summer I visited the Paris school and spoke to one of the teachers (you can read about it here). Cinquième Sens takes a practical approach to fragrance. They focus on translating the art of perfumery into consumer products and they teach you about what's in your bottle. It's a fascinating journey.

The teachers were Jillian Friedman, a fragrance industry professional, who's been a consultant for several major brands, and Aurélie Dematons from the Paris school. Both of them offered knowledge and enthusiasm and patiently answered every question.

My absolutely favorite part was sniffing the raw materials, both natural and synthetic. Most of us have come across an essential oil or two before, but have you ever smelled raw tonka beans or ylang-ylang (my notes on the latter say: weird, oily, aggressive)? I wanted to plant my nose in the oakmoss jar and never let go. But the most amazing ones were the forbidden animalics- the ones that are no longer permitted for use. My vegetarian sensibilities are happy it's now illegal to use real musk, castoreum and civet. But I'm also glad I had a chance to smell them once. And my notes about ambregris, the whale equivalent of hairballs, say simply: "no words".

It was also eye opening to get acquainted with some of the more popular synthetics. It helped me understand my fragrance taste a bit better. When it comes to many (most?) of the new bestselling perfumes, the ones lauded for being light, fresh, young (insert your favorite adjective), I sniff them, sometimes spray on my skin, shrug and move on. I tend to forget them by the time I approach the next counter, unless they turn into a cataclysmic scrubber. Apparently, I'm anosmic to several of these happy new molecules. Sometimes I can't smell them at all, others I can tell there's a scent, but it barely registers.

It was especially fun to smell a raw material and then treasure-hunt it in real perfumes. For the first time I could make the separate notes in Chanel no. 5, especially the orange blossom. You gain appreciation for the art of fragrance construction and seamless blending.

Sitting in a classroom for two days, sniffing blotters with a group of people who are just as passionate about perfume is such a different experience than what most of us are used to. There was a great energy around the table as we passed the scent strips around and commented about them. We were all bubbly with excitement over the chance to spend two days talking about perfume. And who wouldn't be?

I attended the class a guest, thanks to Isabelle Ferrand, the head of the Paris school and Laëtitia Longuefosse, the NY director. For details about the offered programs and schedule for the upcoming months, contact Laëtitia at 212 686 4123 or laetitia@cinquiemesens.com .

Tuesday, August 12, 2008

Back To School


The New York branch of Cinquième Sens, the Paris-based perfumery school is officially opening next month. The first class, a two-day introduction to perfumery technique and the language of scents, is described as a "Complete immersion in the perfumery universe, from the origin of raw materials to perfume classification". Those attending the class will learn about:



  • different players in the perfume universe


  • steps required for perfume creation


  • a precise vocabulary for describing scents


  • the main raw materials used in perfume making


  • olfactory families and perfume classification


  • leading brands

When : September 23rd-24th 2008 + 3 other dates in 2008
Where : 274 Madison Avenue, Suite 1804 New York, NY 10016
For more information please contact Laetitia : Laetitia@cinquiemesens.com or call 212-686-4123

I can't wait.

Tuesday, July 22, 2008

An American Blogger In Paris: A Visit To Cinquième Sens Perfumery School






A few days before my Paris trip I got an email informing me the French perfume school Cinquième Sens is about to open a NYC branch and will begin to offer classes this fall. This was very exciting to know, since there are very few other programs available for those who wish to get formal perfume training. A few emails back and forth and a visit to the Paris school was arranged.

Cinquième Sens is located very close to the Eiffel Tower. From the outside it looks like a regular office building with a store front, but when you step in you discover that the "store" is the main workshop area, where students in the last part of their training are seated with bottles, pipettes and other equipment and creating fragrances for their final project.

The school offers two courses: Technical and Cultural. The technical program is a hands-on training that includes chemistry, lab work and formulation classes that teach how to create and construct perfumes. The cultural course teaches fragrance appreciation, introduces the raw materials, analyzes the industry and its history and takes an in-depth look at the market and its bestsellers.

Some of the core classes are the same for both programs, and the best thing is that you don't have to register for the whole course. You can take the particular classes that interest you, after completing the basics and the specific prerequisites. Classes can be from one to eight days (some of the workshops are half days).

Perfumer Anne-Sophie Behagel who teaches some of the technical classes has showed The Blond and me around the school and was very kind to explain the curriculum and chat with us about perfumes, the market and the current trends. If you're a fragrance enthusiast, you know the thrill of meeting someone who shares this obsession and can discuss notes, noses and houses. It's even more exciting to talk juice with someone who is a real pro.

I think I gained a little perspective thanks to Anne-Sophie's insights. It's a little too easy to sit behind a computer, play with samples and become a (little obnoxious) niche snob. The reality is that it's the big names and the bestsellers that drive the industry forward, and while I'd still rather not wear most of them (and in certain cases I'd also prefer not to smell them ever again), it's in everyone's best interest to understand the market and the trends and to appreciate the work behind the top 20.

I'm giddy with excitement about taking the classes. I'll post more info as soon as I get the details. Would you be interested in this? Which one of the programs appeals to you?

For inquiries please contact Laëtitia Longuefosse
T: 212 686 4123
F: 212 686 4056
Laetitia.longuefosse@novalys.com

Photos: All mine.