Cartier Must Pour Homme EDT

Cartier Must Pour Homme has a worldly and sophisticated quality that makes one think of colognes from very different eras, while it was actually a 2000 release. A spicy oriental, heavy on tonka bean, MPH has a Guerlain-like presence, which is probably why I love wearing it just as much (if not more) as smelling it on the husband.

You need to like anise if you're going to enjoy this Cartier fragrance. The spice is prominent from the opening into the late drydown. It sculpts and transforms the usual suspects from the top notes- ubiquitous citrus and greens and makes you notice right away that this is not an average male cologne. Anise has many facets. It can be dry and woody, but also milky, soft and sweet. The perfumer, Nathalie Feisthauer (Eau de Marveilles, several of Etat Libre d'Orange creations), put this fact into good use in Must Pour Homme. The cool and almost herbal aspect of anise morphs into a robust spicy heart. It offers warmth and depth, familiarity and an almost gourmand comfort that intensifies as the vanilla and tonka bean take over. The patchouli in the drydown adds a hint of dark chocolate that plays very well with the creamy sandalwood.

MPH never crosses the lines and remains tasteful. It seduces the senses and has an almost dirty spark in its dark eye, but I have to disagree with Luca Turin who actually labeled it an "animalic woody". It's certainly sexy, but MKK it ain't.

Cartier Must Pour Homme ($100, 3.3oz eau de toilette) is available from most department stores, though as far I've noticed not in every location. I bought my our bottle years ago at Nordstrom. The smart thing would be to search online, as many discounters actually have it for less than half retail price.