Many of the fragrances in Frederic Malle's Editions de Parfums line have a very modern "non-perfumy" feel. It applies to just about everything in the line- from Jean Claude Elena's sparse and airy creations to the naughty things Maurice Roucel does on one's skin. These are the examples I'd use to explain modern perfumery to someone who doesn't follow the industry.
Noir Epices definitely smells like a perfume. And a big one, at that. But it doesn't belong with the other rosy Frederic Malle fragrances (Lipstick Rose, Une Rose and also Iris Poudre, which has a different violet-rose thing going). Even those who aren't big on rose scents (like me) would admit that they often have a certain joyous beauty, le vie en rose, a lighthearted touch. Noir Epices, as the name hints, doesn't play this game. Actually, it doesn't play at all. Even the spiced orange accord that could have been singing about cozy rooms at Christmastime has a different vibe than you'd expect. It smells good but it ain't pretty.
There's a lot of darkness here. The perfumer, Michel Roudnitska, has created a very serious, heavy hearted scent. Even at its most glorious moments, where the black rose is being lit from the inside by the spicy fire or when it all melds into a beautiful woody core, it is never uplifting. Noir Epices carries the heaviness of being. It isn't mopey, not at all, and wouldn't do for a pity party, because it completely lacks a comforting aspect one would at the end of such a day (or a night). It has many good moments and I keep going through samples, unable to resist the darkness. But have yet to feel a need for an actual bottle in my collection. It would feel like giving in. Or giving up.
Picture: Amanda Holding A Rose by Eddie O'Bryan
Noir Epices definitely smells like a perfume. And a big one, at that. But it doesn't belong with the other rosy Frederic Malle fragrances (Lipstick Rose, Une Rose and also Iris Poudre, which has a different violet-rose thing going). Even those who aren't big on rose scents (like me) would admit that they often have a certain joyous beauty, le vie en rose, a lighthearted touch. Noir Epices, as the name hints, doesn't play this game. Actually, it doesn't play at all. Even the spiced orange accord that could have been singing about cozy rooms at Christmastime has a different vibe than you'd expect. It smells good but it ain't pretty.
There's a lot of darkness here. The perfumer, Michel Roudnitska, has created a very serious, heavy hearted scent. Even at its most glorious moments, where the black rose is being lit from the inside by the spicy fire or when it all melds into a beautiful woody core, it is never uplifting. Noir Epices carries the heaviness of being. It isn't mopey, not at all, and wouldn't do for a pity party, because it completely lacks a comforting aspect one would at the end of such a day (or a night). It has many good moments and I keep going through samples, unable to resist the darkness. But have yet to feel a need for an actual bottle in my collection. It would feel like giving in. Or giving up.
Picture: Amanda Holding A Rose by Eddie O'Bryan
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