Thursday, September 24, 2009

Jacques Fath: Fath de Fath (Vintage Perfume)





Sometimes I wonder what it would be like in fifty years, when perfume enthusiasts will amuse themselves trying to locate vintage bottles of discontinued and forgotten perfumes. Would Paris Hilton become a legend? Would fruity florals be revered as a timeless classic? Can you see crazy bidding wars over some bottled dreck by Michael Kors? What would be the next Djedi or Iris Gris?

I'm fascinated by 50s fashion and design aesthetics. And, of course, perfume from that era. In his short career (and life. He died in 1954 at age 42), Jacques Fath has managed to create some iconic looks in the Post War world, hire Hubert de Givenchy, Guy Laroche, and Valentino Garavani as apprentices and launch a perfume legend or two.



Fath de Fath in its original 1953 form is not as mythical as its older sibling Iris Gris. I didn't have to sell a kidney for the sealed bottle I found, I was just very very lucky. While Fath de Fath is beautiful, elegant and as evocative of its time as one would hope, smelling it doesn't change your life or understanding of perfume. I've seen it labeled as an oriental, but I smell enough oakmoss to assume it's a chypre.

The opening is a bit murky with some spicy citrus that when sprayed (I decanted some) smells green and a bit more airy. As it develops, Fath de Fath becomes elegant and very French. The heart is floral and I'm pretty sure I smell a violet-iris note and maybe some lily. It glides like a model in some of these fashion show clips and is unapologetic feminine.

The base isn't just dark and full of oakmoss, but also quite animalic. There's some serious lingerie under these dresses, and Fath de Fath is not shy about making it known. The drydown is my favorite part of this scent. I wonder if any of the fashion houses today would dare release such a thing. Considering the latest offering from Marc Jacobs, Gucci and Dior, my money is on "no".







Photos of the actual vintage bottle are mine. Model: Giselle.
Fath de Fath original ad: okadi.com
Jacques Fath dresses and hats photos: myvintagevogue.com

No comments:

Post a Comment