Le Dix by Balenciaga (launched in 1947) is a floral aldehydic perfume with a sweet and smooth base. One might simply shrug and label it as a product of its time, but it's good to remember that Chanel No. 5 and Arpege by Lanvin, the most famous and popular aldehydic florals, were created in 1921 and 1927, respectively. Le Dix's contemporaries were actually Bandit (1944) and Miss Dior (1947), both leather chypres.
So is there a story here? Is it some kind of reverse rebellion? An Alex P. Keaton style of perfumery from a fashion house known for innovation and daring designs? It's hard to tell these today, especially considering that Balenciaga has withdrwan from the perfume making business for a while. Le Dix and the rest of the classics were officially discontinued (though bottles of the EDT are still available for sale). Last year, the Balenciaga perfume license was sold to Coty, and while it was announced that the face of the new Balenciaga perfume will be Charlotte Gainsburg, I'm not exactly waiting with bated breath (Liv Tyler didn't make Givenchy perfumes not suck).
It's hard to trace the vision that led to the creation of Le Dix. The perfumer, Francis Fabron, was also the creator of Baghari (Piguet) and the original versions of L'Interdit and L'Air du Temps. Clearly, the man was into making really nice, elegant and approachable perfumes. Le Dix is just as beautiful. While the initial burst of aldehydes (and since my bottle isn't exactly fresh, neither are the top notes) is just what you'd expect, they are followed by a sweet and delicious bergamot-lemon veil. It has a juicy, fruity facet that feels warm and inviting, making the floral heart less about tweed and pearls and a lot more embracing.
That's where the powdery violet comes into the picture (and I considered scrubbing at first). It's hard to argue with the old-fashioned stigma that goes with this accord. But I learned to like it. Actually, I learned to love it, because it's soft and very pretty, and wearing something so feminine is actually fun. Sometimes.
The drydown is typical of this genre: vetiver, sandalwood, musk, amber, benzoin and tonka bean. It's darker than No. 5 and sweeter than Caleche. I get a lot of creamed vetiver, and the whole thing inspires me to dress nicely and pull out vintage jewelry and silk scarves.
Photo of a Balenciaga design from the designer's showroom by Mark Show: myvintagevogue.com
Le Dix ads: okadi.com
So is there a story here? Is it some kind of reverse rebellion? An Alex P. Keaton style of perfumery from a fashion house known for innovation and daring designs? It's hard to tell these today, especially considering that Balenciaga has withdrwan from the perfume making business for a while. Le Dix and the rest of the classics were officially discontinued (though bottles of the EDT are still available for sale). Last year, the Balenciaga perfume license was sold to Coty, and while it was announced that the face of the new Balenciaga perfume will be Charlotte Gainsburg, I'm not exactly waiting with bated breath (Liv Tyler didn't make Givenchy perfumes not suck).
It's hard to trace the vision that led to the creation of Le Dix. The perfumer, Francis Fabron, was also the creator of Baghari (Piguet) and the original versions of L'Interdit and L'Air du Temps. Clearly, the man was into making really nice, elegant and approachable perfumes. Le Dix is just as beautiful. While the initial burst of aldehydes (and since my bottle isn't exactly fresh, neither are the top notes) is just what you'd expect, they are followed by a sweet and delicious bergamot-lemon veil. It has a juicy, fruity facet that feels warm and inviting, making the floral heart less about tweed and pearls and a lot more embracing.
That's where the powdery violet comes into the picture (and I considered scrubbing at first). It's hard to argue with the old-fashioned stigma that goes with this accord. But I learned to like it. Actually, I learned to love it, because it's soft and very pretty, and wearing something so feminine is actually fun. Sometimes.
The drydown is typical of this genre: vetiver, sandalwood, musk, amber, benzoin and tonka bean. It's darker than No. 5 and sweeter than Caleche. I get a lot of creamed vetiver, and the whole thing inspires me to dress nicely and pull out vintage jewelry and silk scarves.
Photo of a Balenciaga design from the designer's showroom by Mark Show: myvintagevogue.com
Le Dix ads: okadi.com
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