Monday, August 3, 2009

Serge Lutens Clair de Musc- A Perfume For All Seasons


Clair de Musc by Serge Lutens is often ignored or neglected, even by Lutens devotees. The other musks by Uncle Serge tend to get more press: MKK with its beastly reputation and the elegant Bois et Musc that kills you softly. I understand why it happens: the very first time I tried Clair de Musc my first thought was: "is that all?". I already owned three or four other Lutens perfumes and expected something... different, I guess. I remember thinking it reminded me of older hand creams and mostly dismissed it until a bit later I realized I was wearing a gorgeous, understated scent.

I went through five or six samples before finally getting a bottle of Clair de Musc. I reach for it often, especially on days I want something that fits effortlessly but has enough personality. This is probably what many fans of Chanel No. 5 feel towards their bottle- an easy to wear, smooth and exquisitely made perfume that always feels right.

I get a lot of powdery iris, which probably gives Clair de Musc the elegant, put-together air. Other flowers here are ethereal and well-blended. It's like a feminine veil over a creamy base of sandalwood and almost clean white musk. While it feels perfectly coiffed and restrained, it's not a schoolmarm of a scent. The musk has enough body and soul, and while very abstract, it still shows just enough skin to make the wearer aware of her own.

A couple of sprays are the equivalent of putting on the right dress for an event or the right suit to impress a new client. It doesn't overwhelm on a hot day and actually feels cozy on a winter evening under a cashmere sweater. I know Clair de Musc is often compared to classic 70s musks, but to me it smells much more expensive and refined.

Clair de Musc ($120) is available from top department stores: Bergdorf, Neiman, Barneys, as well as from Aedes in NYC and Scent Bar/Luckyscent and Beauty Habit in California. I can't remember where I bought my bottle, but I'm pretty sure I ordered it online.

Photo: Butterfly by Declan McCullagh

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