Annick Goutal- Ninfeo Mio

When it comes to perfumes centered around a very specific note, one can sometimes wonder if it's possible (or necessary) to have a new or different interpretation. Of course, the obsessed among us would tell you there can never be too many leather perfumes. Or vetiver. Or tuberose.

Or fig.

Ninfeo Mio, the newest perfume from Annick Goutal (created by the house's perfumer Isabelle Doyen) is a fig scent, and even I was surprised at the originality of this beautiful composition. From the sharp mixed citrus notes of the opening to the green depths of the perfume (galbanum, and quite a bit of it, judging by the excellent staying power), there's so much to enjoy in Ninfeo Mio I'm in a fig-lover heaven.

The perfumer's inspiration, the Italian Giardino di Ninfa, is evident. Citron, lemon, bitter orange and fig trees growing on an ancient stream, shading and protecting the ancient grounds. There's something comforting and captivating in aromas that have been there since ancient times (though the garden as it is today is the result of restorative work from the 1920s). It's beautiful and almost wholesome, but just wild enough to make you think of frolicking fauns and maybe a bacchanalia (or two) going on among the trees and shrubs. Ninfeo Mio is really that much fun to wear.

Like last year's Goutal, Un Matin d'Orage, Ninfeo Mio is an eau de toilette. I can't help but wish for an extrait de parfum. Not because it lacks anything, it's just my own desire to indulge in this green fig to the max. As I've mentioned, it stays on my skin for many hours. The citrus notes are gone, of course, but the fig, galbanum and general greenery delight me for more than 12 hours. It can be sprayed with abandon without ever feeling too heavy, and the lack of any sweetness makes Ninfeo Mio and ideal summer scent. On a man's skin (the husband's) there's a lot more wood and herbs than I smell on myself, no matter how much or how little I apply. It's the most unisex fig scent I've come across, even more than the crystalline Figuier by Heeley.

Annick Goutal's Ninfeo Mio is available right now in few select locations such as Bergdorf Goodman and Henri Bendel in NYC (and Harrods in the UK). I bought my 100 ml bottle ($115, the ribbed feminine version. The juice inside is identical to the one in the rectangular one) at Henri Bendel. Neither store offers it online yet (Harrods does, but they do not ship overseas), but you can order by phone. I have to say that I'm deeply impressed with the change I see at Henri Bendel's perfume department. There's a serious effort there to become a major force in luxury and niche perfume. Now if they only discover the joy of e-commerce.

Photos of Giardini di Ninfa by Komakino1976 and Fabio C. Favaloro on Flickr.

Annick Goutal Eau du Fier

Eau du Fier is one of those perfumes that make me wonder if I actually enjoy the way they smell or the fact they're so unusual and unconventional. It's probably a mix of both, since this Annick Goutal creation (by house perfumer Isabelle Doyen) is not the only tarry perfume I like. But there's something to be said for the uniqueness and element of surprise whenever I spray myself with it.

Eau du Fier smells mostly like a cocktail of Lapsang Souchong with a splash of non-sweet orange juice. The opening is extremely smoky, medicinal and would challenge many people's idea of perfume, unless they're familiar with CDG Tar, Tauer's Lonestar Memories or at least Bulgari Black and Tea For Two by L'Artisan. Still the last two have a nice dose of vanilla that makes them go down easily enough, while the Goutal has little to none sweetness. My skin tends to neutralize heavy smoky notes and reduces them to their woody or shrubbery origin. Eau du Fier becomes very much a tea scent with an almost sheer quality. It's a lot less heavy than one would assume after the birch tar assault of the top notes and settles very close to the skin, feeling more exotic than avant-garde.

I enjoy the entire journey and find it very wearable on days I don't have to mix with the general public which might raise an eyebrow at a woman who smells of a burnt substance. It's not a perfume I'd recommend to wear for a romantic date for either men or women, unless the object of your desire is a tea connoisseur who would appreciate the nuances. Still, the bottom line is that Eau du Fier smells good in an off-the-beaten-path way and is worth becoming part of one's perfume journey. If you can find some, that is.

Eau du Fier was released in 2000 and vanished from our shelves around 2005. A few European Annick Goutal boutiques had it until a couple of years ago and while the official Goutal website doesn't even mention its existence, a handful of bottles still make an appearance overseas, which is how I found and purchased mine.

Photo: theteacentre.com.au

Annick Goutal Musc Nomade (Les Orientalistes)

The first couple of times I tested Musc Nomade from a sample vial I thought I was anosmic to something in its opening. All I got for the first 30 seconds was a sinus burning alcoholic smell before it turned to an actual perfume. Later wearings- both by dabbing or spraying- were much more pleasurable. I don't have any explanation to this, other than telling you that I had a very similar experience with Le Labo's Los Angeles Exclusive, Musc 25, so it's definitely something about one of the musks used in these perfumes.

Musc Nomade is the fourth perfume in Annick Goutal's Les Orientalistes series. It was released after the original trio (Ambre Fetiche, Myrrhe Ardente and Encens Flamboyant) but feels like an integral part of the collection. It's a definite departure from what we used to think of as a "typical Goutal" and seems to have been inspired and influenced by the Lutens/Sheldrake school of perfumery. Actually, when Les Orientalistes were first released in 2007 I wasn't completely convinced that anyone who owns and wears the likes of Ambre Sultan, Chergui or Fumerie Turque would really need the gentler, kinder Goutals. I was wrong, of course.

Musc Nomade might be somewhat related to Lutens' MKK. It shares that warm, smooth skin quality that feels to me soft, fuzzy and slightly fruity, but others find it dirty, beasty and armpity. It's definitely not a clean laundry musk and doesn't smell like all those faceless mainstream perfumes that mention "white musk" in their base notes. Musc Nomade might be more understated and easy on the uninitiated nose than the Mongolian warrior by Uncle Serge, but it's not any less sensual.

Spraying Musc Nomade doesn't produce a scary, horse galloping sillage. It keeps to itself in my personal space and stays there for very long hours. I sometimes forget I'm wearing it until I get that familiar whiff of something pleasant from my cleavage area, and it's part perfume and part skin. I guess it's the greatest compliment one can give a scent- when it becomes so much a part of you.

Just like my scent twin predicted many moons ago, I had to have it. I started with a couple of mini splash bottles purchased online and decanted some into a spray atomizer which seems like the better method of application in this case. I ended up buying a full size bottle because I can't have too many musks.

Musc Nomade and the rest of the Les Orientalistes ($175, 100 ml) seem to have vanished from the shelves of many department stores, including my local Saks and Bloomingdale's, but are still available from them as well as from Barneys online (including in the 50 ml bottles, $115). However, a couple of online retailers such as Rei Rien sell them at a (very) deep discount.

Photo of Jean Harlow: thedirtythirties.tumblr.com

Annick Goutal Myrrhe Ardente (Les Orientalistes)

It seems that Myrrhe Ardente is the least popular scent in Annick Goutal's Les Orientalistes series, which is too bad because this is a beautiful and complex composition that deserves more than the label of a "root bear float". But I understand where it came from and why. There is something very earthy and root-like in the heart. Myrrhe Ardent is also a little different than the other Les Orientalistes. Somehow, it smells less personal, more like a "thing", which makes me a bit self-conscious when I'm wearing it in public.

I'm not really sure why it feels this way. After all, this is a much softer myrrh than the Mediterranean shrubbery of Diptyque L’Eau Trois, a scent I love and wear, and is the myrrhiest one I can think of. Myrrhe Ardent is sweet, resinous and has enough vanilla in the drydown to take the edge off the classic combination of myrrh and frankincense. It shouldn't remind anyone of religious rituals. Actually, It's so unique it doesn't remind me of anything in particular- I just enjoy the ride.

As others (like Kevin on Now Smell This) have observed, Myrrhe Ardente and the rest of the Les Orientalistes play well with each other and layer beautifully with other scents. I'll have to try his suggestion for layering it with Uncle Serge's Miel de Bois, and would also experiment with Un Bois Vanille (basically, almost anything layers well with UBV, and it wouldn't be the first Goutal do so- try it with Eau d'Hadrien). I like trying different ratios of Myrrhe Ardente and Ambre Fetiche. I tend to go overboard with the amber, but that's just how I roll. If you have more layering ideas, please share them.

Annick Goutal Encens Flamboyant (Les Orientalistes)

Annick Goutal's Les Orientalistes series is generally regarded as not very Goutal-like, which is mostly true, considering the house's dainty reputation (obviously, this is only true if one has never encountered Goutal's Eau du Fier). Out of the four Les Orientalistes scents, Encens Flamboyant seems the most surprising. It's a study of frankincense in three forms (sap, slightly processed resinoid and burnt incense), enriched with various spices- black and pink pepper, cardamom and nutmeg, and grounded with fir balsam. Nothing frilly here, for sure.

Incense scents tend to walk the line between cold and warm. From church walls and pine needles (CDG Avignon, Heeley Cardinal) to smoke and burnt embers (CDG Zagorsk, L'Artisan Passage d'Enfer). Of course, there's also the alien terrain of Andy Tauer's Incense Extreme, which can be both, depending on your mood, the weather and the magic of skin chemistry. Encense Flamboyant is definitely not the cold kind, despite the fir balsam which can sometimes give that dark pine forest feel. Here it is soft and almost comforting. It whispers more than cracks under your feet, if that makes any sense.

The first time I tried Encense Flamboyant I thought it would be more my husband's type of scent than mine (the bottle is still officially his, but you know how these things work). It took me a while to fully get this beauty. Beyond the spice, beyond the smoke- there's a wonderful softness to this scent. Incense perfumes are often regarded as meditative. This might be the first one I truly feel has that effect on my mind- it's very calming and centering. Compared to other incense fragrances I own, this might be the most tender, which is not what I expected after all the pepper and spice. It has an understated presence. Sometimes I forget I'm wearing it and then it catches me by surprise.

Encense Flamboyant layers beautifully with the other Les Orientalistes, and especially with Ambre Fetiche. Wearing them together can feel like a Middle Eastern party, complete with belly dancers. It's a lot of fun.

Photo: Incense, Buddhist temple by Per-Andre Hoffman

Annick Goutal Les Orientalistes- Ambre Fetiche

Perfume lovers who own a substantial number of bottles tend to reach a point in their collecting habit where considering a purchase becomes about deciding if this new (or old) perfume is worth the shelf space and its place in their rotation, since acquiring and wearing a new scent means less skin time for the other loves. In other words, we become so particular that a perfume needs to wow us if it is to join the other treasures in our cabinets. Ambre Fetiche from Annick Goutal didn't require any inner debate. It was a case of Sniff. Love. Need. Get.

For once, the list of notes (amber, frankincense, labdanum, stirax, benzoin, iris absolute, vanilla and Russian leather) actually tells the full story of the fragrance. It's a very dark amber-incense, where the expected sweetness is wonderfully balanced by a tarry, dirty black leather. Yes, it's an oriental, therefore forever doomed to be compared to various Guerlain perfumes, from the classic Shalimar to the modern Cuir Beluga and Oriental Brulant. But while I doubt someone who hates the Guerlains would find Ambre Fetiche wearable, it's different enough thanks to the impressive amounts of smoky incense and stands out among the above and other famous big ambers (Serge Lutens and Tom Ford's, for example).


Ambre Fetiche is not for the demure. Anyone expecting the typical floral Goutal would be surprised and not necessarily in a good way. It's strong and thick, uncompromising in its sexuality and would make one think of ancient perfumery traditions from the days it was all about frankincense, myrrh and lebonah than anything dainty and/or French. It easily stays on for 24 hours or more (after only two sprays) and you'll catch a whiff of yourself at every turn. In the late drydown, when most of what's left is a smoky vanilla, you might feel the urge to try licking yourself. Try to resist.

The four Les Orientalistes perfumes (Ambre Fetiche, Encens Flamboyant,Myrrhe Ardente and Musc Nomade) are available in 50 ml, 100 ml and also in the rectangular masculine bottles at the usual department stores, from Bloomingdale's and up, but also for a considerably better price from several online retailers. I'm starting to realize that Ambre Fetiche is one of those very rare perfumes I actually should have bought in the bigger bottle.

The bottle in the Goutal ad at the top is the limited edition butterfly bottle.

Photo: Black Corset by Horst P. Horst, 1948

Top Ten Summer Perfumes

Can there be a list of summer perfume recommendation without boring myself silly and/or mentioning Eau d'Hadrien? I'm going to try. Some of these are new(ish), others are perennial favorites. In no particular order:

1. Reverie au Jardin- Tauer
Midsummer afternoon dream. Will transport you to a magical alpine garden.

2. Amethyst- Olivier Durbano
Slightly sweetened pencil shavings, clean incense and a touch of vanilla. Surprisingly refreshing in the heat.

3. Un Matin d'Orage- Annick Goutal
Green gardenias drenched in rain without an ounce of sweetness until the musky drydown.

4. Monyette Paris *
The other side of gardenia. Tropical, sweet with a touch of nag champa incense. Put a flower in your hair and go dancing on the beach.
*I think it's the first fragrance review I've written here. It's magnificently bad, but kind of nostalgic in a campy way.

5. Nuit de Cellophane- Serge Lutens
Osmanthus flowers with a hint of apricot. Like drinking iced peach tea on a beautiful Cape May porch.

6. Italian Cypress- Tom Ford
Is it an homage to Eau d'Hadrien (so I lied. It had to be mentioned)? Maybe. But the cypress is a darker green and the feeling is more pulled together.

7. Encre Noire- Lalique
Or any other vetiver, really. I've chosen this one because it's a bit softer while still dry and grassy.

8. (Vintage) Vivara-Pucci
I'm talking about the original 60s formula. A salty chypre that belongs with the jet set in San Tropez. White pants, a Pucci scarf and oversized sunglasses are essential.

9. Bois Blond- Parfumerie Generale
A roll in dry hay on a lazy Sunday afternoon. You can smell the earth and trees baking in the sun.

10. Figuier- Heeley
Like lying in the shade of a huge, old fig tree next to a running stream.

What are your summer favorites this year?

art: Embarkation by Dan Dahlke

In Which I Smell Annick Goutal Un Matin d'Orage

...and have a little déjà vu.

According to the flowery blurb on the Annick Goutal site, the inspiration for their newest fragrance, Un Matin d'Orage, was Camille Goutal's trips in Japan where she experienced storm drenched Japanese gardens. I've never been to Japan, so I cannot comment on how evocative the scent is in this regard, but shortly after spraying it on my arm I felt it was somewhat familiar. It took me several hours of obsessively sniffing my arm to realize where I've smelled this before.

But let's go back to the beginning. Un Matin d'Orage is currently only available at Saks (it looks sold out online, but if your local store is as much of a ghost town as mine, it's probably in stock), which meant braving the normally sour-faced SA at the counter. There's a significant improvement of the attitude in the store, probably related to the fact Saks is in dire straits these days. The SA apologized profusely because she had no samples of the perfume, but was eager for me to spray "the new orange perfume" (seriously!). Which I did.

Unlike the SA, I knew there wasn't any orange there (my French may be limited to a terrible pronunciation of "Serge Lutens" and "Pâte à Choux", but this is not the first Orage I come across, and it translates to "a stormy morning"). What I got was a hit of charged, ozonic air which led the way to wetness: wet greenery, wet florals, wet earth. My skin is an infamous flower slayer, so I can't say much about the promised champaca, jasmine or magnolia. The one flower that stood out and stayed put was gardenia. A surprisingly green gardenia, bare of any sweetness or gilding that you often find in gardenia-based scents.

Because of all the air and water that stand between my nose and the gardenia, my main impression was of a flower seen through a window while rain is pouring. That image has stayed with me for several hours until I remembered the last interesting gardenia I've smelled:

JAR Bolt Of Lightning

Seriously.

I don't know about Japan, but I wouldn't be surprised to hear that Isabelle Doyen, the nose behind Un Matin d'Orage, got some of her influence at the JAR boutique in Paris. Think of it: a stormy, ozonic opening, wet earth and tons of gardenia. It's not that UMdO smells like Bolt Of Lightning, but there are some striking similarities here and there as the scent develops. Bolt of Lightning has a much more dramatic and dangerous opening. It hits you forcefully before the gardenia arrives. Un Matin D'Orage isn't shocking. It draws you in and is decidedly prettier. But it's not a typical Goutal scent and has a lot more edge than one would expect.

Is it the poor man's Bolt Of Lightning? At $80 for 1.7 oz, It's less than 10% of the JAR price, so one could even spring for the special butterfly bottle ($220 for 3.4 oz) and still feel sort of thrifty. Is it an adequate substitution? Probably not. Un Matin d'Orage is thinner, lighter, airier. It belongs in the same group as other new tropical greens like L'Artisan Fleur de Liane and that aquatic disaster from Hermes, Un Jardin Apres La Mousson. It's also infinitely better than both.

I can see UMdO being a perfect summer scent if you're looking for something green with a touch of florals that will not turn on you. It's different than the calonic-melonic fragrances which can be stomach-turning if you're sensitive to their aromachemicals. And it's definitely pleasant to wear, unless you were hoping for something like Grand Amour or Quel Amour!. I don't agree with the ultra-feminine label they're trying to stick on Un Matin. I'm pretty sure many men can pull it off easily, as long as they don't have the skin chemistry that amplify white flowers and broadcast them to the stratosphere.

Do I need a bottle? I'm not sure. I'm not in the market for air and water. But talk to me in late July and I might change my tune.

Image of wet gardenia by Susan Boden Dillon

Hot Summer Nights- Annick Goutal Le Nuits D'Hadrien

I once referred to Annick Goutal's Les Nuits D'Hadrien as Hadrien's sexy older sister. This is technically inaccurate, because while Eau D'Hadrien is celebrating its 25th anniversary this year, Les Nuits is a 2003 release.

Still, EdH is the ultimate inoffensive summer scent, worn by men and women on those days when no other fragrance is tolerated. While it's sometimes mentioned as the freshest, greenest and most beloved of all citrus scent, LNDH has more edge with its ambery base and spicy heart.

The note that makes the original Hadrien so dear to my heart is cypress, with its dark green, woody and dusty base. It's what separates this scent from Jo Malone type scents and keeps me interested. The cypress is gone from Les Nuits, and replaced with a richer blend of somewhat sweeter notes: Tangerine and mandarin orange in the opening soften the familiar blast of Sicilian lemon. I never detect the promised ylang-ylang, and the spicy heart sometimes hides the cumin when I smell it on my skin (though it's always there when sniffing the bottle). What I get more than anything is a powdery amber and sandalwood drydown that still have the citrusy punch, but is edgier than the original.

They promise white musk, but I guess they're using my blind-spot molecule, so I can only attempt a guess that this should be even sexier to the right nose. All I can say is that I get occasional cravings for LNDH, and right now I'm seriously coveting the body cream. It might help the scent last longer.

(The bottle in the picture is the special butterfly bottle, available at few locations. You can get the EdP in the regular bottle at most department stores and online discounters. As with EdH, there's also a EdT version, but considering the questionable staying power, I wouldn't recommend it.)

Sweet- Annick Goutal Quel Amour!

Quel Amour! from Annick Goutal isn't a fragrance you'd expect to find on my dresser. It has the scariest list of notes: pomegranate, blueberry, redcurrant, Morello cherry, peach (!!!), peony, wild rose, pink geranium and ambergris. As a rule, I stay away from fruity scents, and with a good reason. Mango, peach, lychee fruit and their other juicy cousins do two things when introduced to my skin: turn sour and refuse to go away.

In this case, through some alchemy of notes, there's no little pink umbrella swirling in the air. Only the pomegranate and cherry are detectable, and both show their deep red, sensual side. The sweet, feminine feel is cheerful and bright. It makes me think of a summer day in a lush garden. The geranium is fresh and sharp, almost herbal and it gives a perfect balance to the ripe fruit.

It's a great match for a sundress and a cute pair of high-heeled sandals. This perfume is girly without feeling juvenile and makes one feel pretty. Can't ask for much more for spring that has (finally and reluctantly) arrived.

(the photo is of the special butterfly bottle. A much more reasonably priced regular bottle of the EdP can be found at many online stores as well as from Bloomingdales)

La Primavera- Annick Goutal Grand Amour

It's spring, so lovely florals are in order, which is a bit of a problem, considering that many of my favorite fragrances, with their wood, spice and leather notes are dark and brooding. Not exactly the thing to wear for a day in the botanical gardens.

However, I do own a pretty scent (or two, or...), and there a few lovelier scents than Grand Amour by Annick Goutal. It might be the most "perfumy" of all the bottles in my collection. There's something very lady-like and classic in it, from the first blast of hyacinth and honeysuckle of the top notes (the lily doesn't bother me here) that is almost too feminine and old fashioned for me, but not quite. The rose and jasmine give it enough wicked sensuality to keep it from becoming too white gloves and the Queen's garden party.

It remains very beautiful, almost heartbreakingly so, as it develops on the skin. The official site calls it "serene" and I have to agree. It's quiet and deep, but never too heavy or too mature. The amber-vanilla-myrrh drydown is perfectly balanced to my nose, never gets too sweet or too sharp. It retains a degree of youth and magic even when it reveals the more sensual and knowing face.

The story behind the scent is of love and devotion. Annick Goutal has created it for herself, to capture her love for her husband. What's better than a spring fragrance made with and for love?

Stay With Me

Another good thing that I have to say about Tom Ford's Black Orchid is its long staying power. It holds its own for 6-8 hours, and a soft vanilla trace stays on the skin even longer. That's a very good thing in my book. I was never shy about fragrance. I don't use body splashes or any watered down scented products. I want the real thing, and I want to be able to smell it all day, and if possible- if you get close enough to me, you'l be able to smell it as well. This is why I'm terribly annoyed with serious perfumes that do not last.

There are two houses famous for lack of staying power. Annick Goutal is one, though I'm getting the feeling that it's not a universal problem with these scents, except for poor Hadrien. I love both versions (Eau d'Hadrien and Le Nuit d'Hadrien), and while the latter ambery nature keeps it around for much longer, it could still be improved. The original EdH is as flighty as it is wonderful. I wish they'd come with an improved version.
I'm quite happy with the other Goutals I'm using. Grand Amour lasts nicely and Quel Amour! stays all day and well into the evening. No complaints there.

The other infamous maker is L'Artisan Parfumeur. It starts with the fact that the majority of their scents only come as an EDT. Why? I don't buy the faux French snobbery about how a good perfume needs to be subtle and barely there. Tell that to Serge Lutens (or any of the other big names. They are all very distinct. And they last). I only tried one of the EDP that they do offer (La Chasse aux Papillons Extreme) and while it smelled nice, I wasn't too impressed with its staying power, either.

That said, I actually like their scents. Very much so. Especially the more masculine ones, and have even fallen in love with Mechant Loup. I don't get the hazelnut notes that some mention, but there is something deep and laced with honey, without being too sweet. It feels like wearing something velvety in forest green and burgundy. It even stays on the skin long enough to justify buying a bottle (which I will share with my husband). But if only it was an EDP... That would have been so perfect.

Layering

This is something that I've briefly mentioned before, because I did it a couple of time in the summer, but it's worth talking about again. I love Annick Goutal's Eau d'Hadrien and wear it often when I need something crisp and citrusy. My only complaint has always been the staying power. This is a fragrance that was always meant to be layered with other Goutals. But my choice is Serge Lutens' Un Bois Vanille.


During the summer, I liked this combo because it grounded the flighty Hadrien and gave it some sweet depth. But now, I'm discovering that it's even better, because I'm using a little more of the Vanille and using the Hadrian to uplift it and give it some spark. The combination of the sweet woods and lemony cypress is heady and addicting. My husband describes it as intoxicating and I find myself wearing it a couple of times a week. In a season that offers such competition as Bond's New Haarlem, Serge's Miel and Cedre, Donna Karan's Black Cashmere and the ever-so-lovely Jill Sander no. 4, this is a good testament to the seduction of these two together.

A Few of My Favorite Things (that are not whiskers on kittens)

I was going through my little collection of favorite perfumes, trying to figure out if there was some common denominator or if there was a way to tell what kind of fragrance I would like and what I wouldn't. I can't say that I've found a definite answer, but I decided to list all of my current favorites. I'm not linking to other sites this time, because there are just too many. What I can say is that I buy my fragrances offline and online at LuckyScent.com, Sephora, Neiman's, Saks, Bloomie's, FragranceNet.com and Perfume1.com. For what's categorized as "department store perfumes" I highly recommend checking the last two first, as their prices are significantly lower. I always go for the EDP, as I like the smell to linger. This list doesn't include everything I have or things I used to love but fell out of grace, just the most favorite ones, for now.
Reccomendations based on this would be gladly accepted.

Kingdom by Alexander McQueen- This is an odd one. I think I bought it because in a way, it reminded me (don't laugh) of Colors by Benetton, that I wore at 18 for special dates with my boyfriend. Those are some bittersweet memories and so is this fragrance. It's drier than what I usually go for and requires a certain mood. I usually wear it at night and only recently discovered that it's actually better in hot weather than it is in winter. Heat brings out a very sensual element in this one. Decent lasting power.

Tiffany (the original one, by Tiffany, of course)- I was introduced to it about 14 years ago by my friend E, who has since moved on to other fragrances. I bought it for myself in the summer of 1993 just before I met my husband, and have been wearing it ever since. It used to be the one I wore for our special dates and has stayed as a special favorite of us both. I know that many think of it as an "old lady smell", but for me it's anything but. It was perfect when I was 22 and it suits me just as well today. It's become so much a part of me that I can't even analyze the notes or anything else about it. It's one of my signature scents and I wear it easily both days and nights. Excellent staying power.

Eternity (yeah, Calvin Klein)- A favorite daytime fragrance that I've been wearing on and off since 1993. It's a sunny and happy scent, lasts for many hours.

Panthere (Cartier)- Another signature scent that seems to have been made especially for me. Like Tiffany, it's an ambery floral, but it's very very different. It's both elegant and sexy (very), I prefer it as a night time fragrance and has been wearing it since late 1995 or early 1996. It's the perfume I wore for my wedding and all through my honeymoon, which is probably why my husband adores it.

Neroli by L'Occitane- This is a much maligned fragrance (just read the reviews on makeupalley.com and see what I mean). People either love it or hate it with a white hot passion. I used to be obsessed with it, now I just love it. I never fail to get compliments when I'm wearing it. The first notes are indeed pretty harsh, but it soon changes into a spicy-sweet beauty. I wish it had more sillage, but whatever does stay close to the skin is wonderful, and my only complaint is that I wish that it lasted a lot longer.

Jil Sander No. 4- I've been wearing this complex and very layered scent for special nights during the last 6 years, and can never get enough of it. It's deep, rich and sexy, the florals are subtle and the woody-oriental base has both a lovely, lingering sillage and a strong staying power. I love the elegance and sophistication. And it calls to be worn with black, well-cut clothes. It's one of my most beloved signature scents.

Sensi (Armani)-I've heard that it's being discontinued, but I can't get it confirmed. I'd be very sorry if it's true, because I love this jasmine, wood and vanilla combination. It's sensual and elegant. A cute cold weather scent with excellent staying power.

So Pretty (Cartier)- I'm quite sure that this one is on its way to be discontinued, which is a shame. It's one of those classics, a beautiful floral with an almost animalic base. Impeccably elegant, needs to be worn with something fabulous.

Le Baiser du Dragon (Cartier)- Very different than my usual fare, not even a hint of vanilla. Very woody, but with a hard to describe twist. It's bold and rich, full of vetiver and patchouli. It's one of the few reasons to enjoy colder weather, as it's so perfect for fall. Stays on for hours.

Grand Amour (Annick Goutal)- Though different than Cartier's So Pretty, in my mind they are grouped together. Classic elegance, very French. It works for me both for day and for night, but never in jeans. Moderate staying power, lovely sillage for as long as the scent is there.

Quel Amour! (Annick Goutal)- A surprising choice for me, as the fruity element is quite prominent. But those are lovely red fruit (yet I dislike Goutal's Petite Cherie), the official notes says something about currants, but to me it's pomegranate beautifully blended with rose and peony. It's an intoxicating sunny fragrance with an incredible staying power on my skin.

Eau d'Hadrien (Annick Goutal)- Lemon and Cypress, fun and uncomplicated. Wonderful to wear first thing in the morning before doing stuff around the house. It has no staying power unless layered with something else. My little discovery is how good it is combined with Serge Luten's Un Bois Vanille.

Nuit du Hadrien (Annick Goutal)- Hadrien's grown-up, wickedly sexy sister. It's definitely very ambery and lasts much longer. I think I'll be wearing it quite often for fall mornings.

Black Cashmere (Donna Karan)- A fairly recent discovery.

Lea St. Barth Extreme- My journey with Lea is documented here and here.

Loukhoum (Keiko Mecheri)- Again, I've already raved about this one.

Monyette Paris- Everyone is more beautiful when wearing this. One of my staples this summer, as I've predicted here.

Serge Lutens- Un bois Vanille and Cedre. Another new love. Both aren't very summery, yet I'm already wearing them often. I foresee many more Serges in my future.

Valentino V Absolu- I wore the original Valentino when I was 20. I loved it despite the no staying power (it was most likely the EDT. I didn't know better in those days). V Absolu doesn't have the greatest staying power ever (I dread to think how long the regular V would last on my skin), but what is left close to the skin is a heady mix of sweet and citrusy wood, enriched with delicate vanilla. It's a day scent, especially because of the citrus and fig top notes. I love the way it reacts with my skin on a sunny day.

Sage Machado perfume oils: Onyx, Moonstone- A very recent discovery. I have yet to buy them, but for now I'm relishing the samples. They are very similar, but Onyx has more pronounced coconut note. There's something about those two that reminds me of a favorite shampoo from my childhood- Flex by Revlon. It was crap on the hair but I was addicted to its smell. I need to decide if I really love this or if it's a passing summer whim. Wonderful staying power, and for now I'm enamored.


The Heart is Deceitful Above All things (Yosh)- A stupid name for a very beautiful scent. Wood, something earthy and vanilla make this one indescribable. I'm still using the sample, but the decision has already been made. I need a full bottle.

Goldmund by Dorissima - Another very new discovery. My Luckyscents order is going to include this one as well. It's soft and complex, has some of my favorite notes (rose, vanilla, sandalwood and soft musk), doesn't resemble anything else that I have or even know and makes me feel pretty. That alone is a good reason to wear it year round. Moderate staying power, as far as I can tell, but haven't tested it enough yet to know for sure.

Morning Fragrance- Roberto Cavalli, Annick Goutal Eau D'Hadrien

This morning, before working out and starting my day I'm testing a sample of Roberto Cavalli for women. It smells ok, a bit on the fruity side when touched my skin, but not in a peachy way (which I'm very glad about, otherwise I'd be washing the stuff off immediately). It's supposed to have apples in it, and I can smell that combined with a little musk. But it smells like another fragrance, I just can remember which one- not anything I currently have, but definitely something I've tried before. Anyone has any idea?
I don't think I'll be purchasing this one any time soon. It's okay, but not exciting for me.

Edit, later in the day: It's a nice enough musky fragrance, just not very interesting. I cleaned up and put on a favorite for the season: Annick Goutal's Eau D'Hadrien. That one smells just right. Amazing how citrus can be sexy.

Cavalli sample was a GWP.