Guerlain Vetiver- Old And New

Some days call for vetiver perfumes and there are few more iconic vetivers than the classic Guerlain in any of its versions, past and present. The idea seems simple enough- a bright citrus opening, a crisp and dry vetiver-wood body and a peppery dry-down with a hint of unsmoked tobacco. Still, Guerlain's Vetiver is anything but simple or predictable. The secret, I think, is the perfect balance that allows the vetiver to shine without having to go to extremes- no bitterness or swampiness, only the best of its green qualities.

The older version (my bottle is an EDT from the early1990s or late 80s) seems less concerned about being clean. It's not murky by any means, but  has a darker aura. I believe there might be more tobacco and less citrus, but this impression might be a result of the bottle's age. Guerlain purists claim the EDT is not as good as the EDC, but I never tried the latter. The eau de toilette is good enough to make me swoon and I'm glad I got it for the husband (and myself. I have yet to find a vetiver I can't wear). It's better dressed and  less casual than the modern one, but just about anything designed in the 1960s feels this way, right?

The new EDT is bright and sunshiny at first, but becomes softer over time. It's like a cool breeze blowing through the grass, making it appear outdoorsy and light. The Blond likes to wear it on the hottest days of summer (apparently, he doesn't buy my theory about going in the other direction to cut the heat) and for easy weekends. I enjoy it year-round and like many other women find it genderless, as long as you love green scents. I wish Guerlain would bring back the body products. The shower gel (I think they labeled  it an All-Over Shampoo, though I never tried it on my hair) was perfection in a tube. I  bought the last one I could find a couple of years ago, and I think the husband might still be hoarding the last drops. I'd love to be able to indulge again.

While the original Guerlain Vetiver has all but disappeared (the aftershave and deodorant can still be found online, but the idea of a deodorant from eight or nine years ago isn't very appetizing), the new Vetiver is available from just about every fragrance department in the universe ($71, 2.5oz at Sephora, about half this price from various discounters).

Images of the two Guerlain Vetiver versions (from 1997 and 2002)- couleurparfum.com

Kanebo Sensai Hydrachange Mist

Complaining about the weather gets old and boring quickly, especially since we all know I'm going to whine twice as much come winter. But this summer has been brutal, making me more obsessed than ever about protecting my skin and keeping it in top shape with all the moisture and nutrients I can get.

It can be a bit odd how after a day of running around in soup-like humidity once I'm back in the cool and airconditioned house all of a sudden my skin looks and feels deflated. This is where this liquid spray, Hydrachange Mist from Sensai by Kanebo makes a difference.

The Hydrachange Mist looks like water but feels thicker, like a very runny serum. It's actually a mix of water with hyaluronic acid that allows skin to hold unto the moisture and retain it. I've heard some people like to keep the spray bottle of the Mist in the fridge and use it to feel refreshed. Personally, I don't like spraying my face with anything too cold, so I keep it in room temperature. I find that it perks me up instantly and my skin feels very supple after every use. It can be used under makeup or over it and I think it helps makeup stay on and look freshly applied longer. Is this much difference than spraying your face with mineral water at a fraction of the cost? It's hard to say, but I do feel a difference in my skin, so the hyaluronic acid must be doing its job.

Bottom Line: At $75 for 100ml, this is a real indulgence, but after two weeks of temperature in the 100s one starts to appreciate anything that works.

Bottom Line 2: I wish they'd make a travel size bottle, small enough to take on a plane.It would have been the best fix for flight face.

Kanebo Sensai Hydrachange Mist ($75) is available from Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus (the latter is online only). A press sample was supplied by the company's PR team.

Image: Veruschka by Franco Rubartelli, Vogue US June 1968

Guerlain Blush 4 Eclats Fall 2010 Caresse de L'Aube (07)

Maybe I need to rethink my blush application policy. I'm very careful and mindful about keeping things natural looking and avoiding clown face situations. I apply lightly and check how I look under the track lights in my dressing room and in natural-ish light and it looks fine. Then I arrive at one department store or another and the SAs come after me with brushes announcing I absolutely need some blush. Glancing at the mirror I realize that I look deathly pale and also slightly green. Of course, the harsh light at department stores does nothing for anyone's skin tone, but still, looking at least semi-alive is kind of a priority.

The last SA who tried to perk me up was the Guerlain specialist at Bloomingdale's. The husband was with me but all the brush wielding scared him back to the men's department while I surrendered my face to some color. I've always been a fan of Guerlain bronzers and face powders, and the Blush 4 Eclats didn't disappoint. The new fall 2010 color combination, Caresse de L'Aube ("caress of dawn") is warm and light. It would be very difficult to overdo it  with this blush, so I can relax and indulge. As the Guerlain SA showed me how to apply Caresse de L'Aube there was no doubt it did my face a world of good, color-wise. Also, you can swipe from either side to collect more of the dark and warm or emphasize the lighter and more shimmery and also create highlighting and contouring effects if that's your thing. I just like the option to adjust and control the level of color and shimmer.

I've been using this Blush 4 Eclats almost every day in the last few weeks and it's among my most favorites. The texture is as fine as it gets and melts into my face makeup. It's pretty, easy and doesn't compete with whatever else I have going. KarlaSugar has a swatch photo taken in full sun, while mine is indoors under strong lights.

Bottom Line: Pretty and goes well with the stunning eye makeup colors for fall.

Guerlain Blush 4 Eclats ($49) can be found at most decent department stores.

All photos are mine.